CBR 600F2 1991 - 1994 CBR 600F2

Cbr f2 runs terribly

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Old May 1, 2016 | 01:20 PM
  #31  
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I found a problem!!! Seems weird but I'm so happy to at least find something I can correct

Cyl 2s pilot was clean and clear the oring was fine, put compressed air through it with out a problem

Here's cyl 1:
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I blew air through the pilot and it doesn't seem to be blocked I guess they reinstalled with a broken needle

I found and put in a new pilot screw and oring

Just cyl 3 is left to check then I'll throw them back on after putting the new needle jets in and see if that improved it

Question though if the needle was broken shouldn't that have made a crazy rich a/f not 22.4:1 lean?

Edit: cyl 3 is clean o ring is good

All 4 now are good needles, have good orings, and have had compressed air through them

I'm going to put them on now and see how it is
 

Last edited by tampa_git; May 1, 2016 at 01:31 PM.
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Old May 1, 2016 | 01:44 PM
  #32  
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Great find on the needle. It is definitely more "stubby" than it should be. :-) As to your question about it being rich vs. lean, I really don't have an answer. In theory, you would think that would be the case, but doesn't look like that is the case in this situation. I used to have a sign at my desk that said, "In theory, everything is practical. In practice, everything is theoretical."


Do you know if your carbs were ever soaked in a cleaning agent? This is the best (IMO) way to know that you have everything cleaned out
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 03:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
I used to have a sign at my desk that said, "In theory, everything is practical. In practice, everything is theoretical."


Do you know if your carbs were ever soaked in a cleaning agent? This is the best (IMO) way to know that you have everything cleaned out
Hahahaha I've never heard that saying before but I really like it

As far as the carbs they haven't been soaked to my knowledge, I bought them used on ebay and they had gasket sealer on the float bowls so that leads me to think they wernt, but it is what it is

I tried to break down the original carbs for a soak but I had problems with stripping the butterfly valve screws so I skipped that this time, but your right that combined with a physical poker like a metal string and compressed air used all together would pretty much eliminate any chance of them still being clogged or dirty. If that's what I end up having to do i guess I'll have to try breaking them down again

You have to break them all the way down and separate them to soak them right? The rubber fuel t's and any other rubber would be ruined if they wernt removed?
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 04:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by tampa_git
Hahahaha I've never heard that saying before but I really like it

As far as the carbs they haven't been soaked to my knowledge, I bought them used on ebay and they had gasket sealer on the float bowls so that leads me to think they wernt, but it is what it is

I tried to break down the original carbs for a soak but I had problems with stripping the butterfly valve screws so I skipped that this time, but your right that combined with a physical poker like a metal string and compressed air used all together would pretty much eliminate any chance of them still being clogged or dirty. If that's what I end up having to do i guess I'll have to try breaking them down again

You have to break them all the way down and separate them to soak them right? The rubber fuel t's and any other rubber would be ruined if they wernt removed?
You would need to break them apart to soak them as there are o-rings in the connecting fittings.
You don't have to remove the butterfly valves though. I generally keep them open by placing a nail in the throat. that will suffice
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 06:42 PM
  #35  
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So I threw them back on sync was way off so I plugged everything ran the sync on the tool first through cyl 1 all good

When I went to take the cap off cyl 2 it's soaked in gas (possibly the vacuum being off) good sign in a way though at least I know there's gas there now haha all the pilots were 2.5 turns out

I went to start the wideband and let it heat up before start and I get er8 😖😭 things can't go right I tried to recalibrate but everytime I get the same thing looks like I have to get a new one. I'm guessing it's because of how close they are to the ports but it's where they had to go to be able to ride with them if I wanted and to be able to use fairings with it on. But it is what it is I have to get a new wideband 02 sensor
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 07:35 PM
  #36  
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So I threw them back on sync was way off so I plugged everything ran the sync on the tool first through cyl 1 all good

When I went to take the cap off cyl 2 it's soaked in gas (possibly the vacuum being off) good sign in a way though at least I know there's gas there now haha all the pilots were 2.5 turns out

I went to start the wideband and let it heat up before start and I get er8 😖😭 things can't go right I tried to recalibrate but everytime I get the same thing looks like I have to get a new one. I'm guessing it's because of how close they are to the ports but it's where they had to go to be able to ride with them if I wanted and to be able to use fairings with it on. But it is what it is I have to get a new wideband 02 sensor
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 03:35 PM
  #37  
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So I ordered a new o2 sensor and just temporarily put the plug in so no o2 at all.

It's very hard to start hard to get any idle I have to fiddle with the choke making me thing it's a a/f problem still all pilots are 2.5 turns out. A lot of backfire/pops at idle no throttle

I'll wait to get the new o2 the see if I can find some new readings, I guess a plus side is that I know that the conditions have changed I mean if it started and somewhat idled off choke before and now it's harder that means something changed. I was able to resync and it's a lot better of a sync after finally getting somewhat of a idle but still not nearly a good idle a/f has to be way off somewhere it backfires a lot at idle
 
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Old May 2, 2016 | 09:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by tampa_git
So I ordered a new o2 sensor and just temporarily put the plug in so no o2 at all.

It's very hard to start hard to get any idle I have to fiddle with the choke making me thing it's a a/f problem still all pilots are 2.5 turns out. A lot of backfire/pops at idle no throttle

I'll wait to get the new o2 the see if I can find some new readings, I guess a plus side is that I know that the conditions have changed I mean if it started and somewhat idled off choke before and now it's harder that means something changed. I was able to resync and it's a lot better of a sync after finally getting somewhat of a idle but still not nearly a good idle a/f has to be way off somewhere it backfires a lot at idle
When you say that your pilot screws are turned 2.5 turns out, do you count a turn as a full 360 degree rotation? The only reason I ask is that has been a topic of conversation before on other threads.
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by hamlin6
When you say that your pilot screws are turned 2.5 turns out, do you count a turn as a full 360 degree rotation? The only reason I ask is that has been a topic of conversation before on other threads.
I put 4 lines on the d shaped tool 1/4 increments, I tightened the pilots all the way, marked where a line was on the carb then just turned and counted the lines on the d tool. It gives me something to count against instead of guessing if was fully turned, and I feel it's a little more accurate .

There might be a better way to do that though, it's just the first way I could think of that worked
 
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Old May 3, 2016 | 08:47 AM
  #40  
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That is the perfect way to do it, IMO.
 
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