Well it looks like that might be my problem, I pulled the one on cyl 4 I did not see orings but I did recall seeing a tiny washer on the block that fell that must be the one I'll go get it clean it reinstall but I know I didn't have any orings.. I did get this set of carbs used and they had gasket sealer for the float bowls gaskets so maybe they were removed and never replaced. I'll go check them all and reset them, I have a complete extra set of carbs so hopefully between the two I'll have the orings

Side note last time I was adjusting it on cyl 2 I noticed some fuel on the screw as if a small amount of fuel slipped my not nearly enough to drip but I could see it on the d tool, it might be a hint that number 2 is missing the oring at the least. I'm guessing I should not see any fuel there at all even if I screw it 4 turns out then back in, right?

If their missing the orings does that mean I'm pulling air through there instead of fuel leading to the lean conditions?

Thanks for throwing that out there, I wasn't considering those orings/washers at all i would have completely missed that

Edit: I found the washer and oring for cyl 4 it looked a little warn but I put it back in for now. I'm going bowling with my girlfriend so I didn't have the time to start it up but I will later and check on the others, especially the ones I saw some gas on.

Does anyone know what size orings they are? I'm guessing not a specialty made oring and just a standard oring but what size?

Thanks again for the help

 

Ugh, gasket sealer should never go anywhere near carbs and certainly not on the float bowls. That's a great way to end up with stuck floats and clogged jets.

Yes, if the orings are missing, cracked or damages, you'll probably suck air while running and/or leak fuel when the stopped.

IMHO, Order 4 float bowl gaskets and 4 new idle needle orings from honda and fix the carbs right. Unless you like chasing carbs issues forever.

 

Yeah that's looking like the way to go I looked at the kits for the orings i already replaced the float bowl gaskets with new I didn't realize/think of these at the time. I should have the rest of the kits including the pilot screw orings saved and sitting around I just have to pull them out so I'll do that tonight, hopefully their still sitting in the packages from bikebandit. but yeah it was disappointing seeing the gasket sealer on there, it took forever to scrape it out of the float bowl grove without damaging the surfaces.

 

I replaced the orings with oem for number 2 & 4 from oem carb kit orings so all legit. All of them look good and there are no leaks now.

I still get 22.4:1 with choke off&on for cyl 2, which is throwing me off it does run better with choke on but that's also because it's keeping the rpm up around 2kand it's so lean but it will survive without choke idle around 1600 but it does not sound right (bad tune)

All jets are clean new vaccum lines and t's and new carb boots new oring for the pilot screw and I have the o2 screwed in so I'm only reading cyl 2 so the way the others run is less important

With a light rev it riches up to between 16:1 and 17:1

Why can't I get it to lower any at all at idle?! I've looked at how the pilot screw fits and how far out it can be screwed out before the entire hole through the carb body is open, any after that wouldnt add any fuel right? The hole in the carb body can only be opened so much?

I have it to be what i believe as fully open yet I'm still at 22.4

Would needle position affect idle? I'm under the impression that it does not but I might be wrong? I took my other set apart and they had adjustable needles, the current set are stock with a shim, so I'll probably put the adjustable in. Should I put the clip I'm the second to top and them also use the shim? Or just use the needle with the clip and no shim? I'm mostly concerned with getting a richer mixture at idle before tuning the rest if the range, but my pilots are turned all the way out

 

great catch on the o-rings.
i would re-sync them now as you have a different environment.
also, are you sure the boots are seated and tightned properly?

 

Yeah I'll go double check again, Im sure they are I've checked 3 times but it couldn't hurt to try again. Their brand new btw so they have no cracks and are still "soft"

I'm thinking of pulling the pilots again and running wire through the holes just to tripple check that they are in fact no clogged in anyway

Supprisingly enough the sync didn't really change at all it was a very minor leak on the pilot on cyl 2 but yet again it would hurt to go check the sync and see if I can tweek it at all

 

one easy way to see if you a vacuum leak somewhere is to do this:
with the bike idling, take a propane or mapp gas torch and open up the valve, don't light it though. while it is flowing out unlit gas, place the nozzle around each of your carb boots and other areas, except the air intake. if you have a leak your RPMs will jump considerably.

 

Yeah that's a good idea I've heard of using started fluid or carb cleaner to listen for rpm increase but I always hated spraying somethjng that eats rummber around the boots and other plast connection but the propane wont do that so that seems lIke the better way to do it, thanks for the tip. I'll go out and try the propane today, I have a few bottles sitting around.

I'll post back if I find any vacuum leaks

 

Just tried with no luck, I acedentally let my battery die so it was on the tender all night it was a pain to start but it did eventually still 22.4 on cyl 2 so not surprising that it was a hard start

I sprayed propane on all the boots, the pilot jets and the vacuum lines and the lines leading to the sync

I guess I've tested what I can with the carbs on I really hate taking off these f2 carb for some reason their just a pain to put on this bike even with new boots but I guess I'll take them off again and really take a good look at the pilots again but this time make sure I can see a light through them like hold a flash light up to them when their out

Any way to check if I'm getting a false reading from a exhaust leak? I see some sealer that someone tried to put on around the headers at one time I'm guessing maybe for a exhaust leak but when I put then on the fit fine and seemed to seat find the flanges slipped right into place without a hassle. Any way to test though? Seems like a long shot but might as well ask

 

I'm taking the carbs off now, I have 4 good condition adjustable needles I'll put in from the spare set, doesnt affect idle but might as well since their off

Im reading a lot of people that put the clip in the 2nd to top slot? I'll try there to start and no spacer under it right?

All 4 float bowls had about the same amount of fuel so I know the gas is getting to the carbs and not over flowing

I'll try cleaning the pilots with metal string carb cleaner and compressed air, it shouldn't matter if I leave the bowls on to clean the pilots right? I don't want to keep pulling bowls and putting them on it wears out that oring I don't have a 100 dollars for 4 new ones haha