'93 F2 Mods - Phase 2
The new levers arrived yesterday evening - I'll get these mounted tomorrow, hopefully.
These are adjustable for length, 6-way adjustable for distance from grip to lever, and folding, for crash protection.
These are adjustable for length, 6-way adjustable for distance from grip to lever, and folding, for crash protection.
Speaking of that, yesterday I built a small bench, and got my drill press set up.

The levers are going on....now!

The levers are going on....now!
I'd seen some before, but don't remember what brand they were - they were something reputable, like CRG, ASV, Rizoma, or something of the like, but I don't recall.
I'm fine with it - anodized colors rarely match exactly how you might want, but as long as the part is not right next to the paint, it works OK.
I finally got some time today to work on my plan for modifying the OEM rearsets that I already polished.
I used my extra shift-side rearset, to establish a different pattern, and figure out which countersink tool would work the best - you'll see at the end, that the bottom row was used with countersink bits that didn't work out, but then I tried the last one, and.... bingo!
Hashed out a grid, to establish the hole centers:

Used a center puch to mark for the holes:


Put a little divet in to better visualize it:

And the final result of the practice piece - like I mentioned above, the bottom row was done with bits that didn't work out.
I'm going to change it just a touch for the actual work - the top and bottom lines of the kick-plate are not truly parallel with each other, so when I grid out the final piece, I'm gonna start at the top, and work down, and, instead of doing 6-6-5-5, from the bottom row to the top, I'm going to do 7-6-5-4.

I'm going to try to get these done tomorrow, but it may have to wait, and if so, I'll get them finished up after work on Monday and Tuesday.
I used my extra shift-side rearset, to establish a different pattern, and figure out which countersink tool would work the best - you'll see at the end, that the bottom row was used with countersink bits that didn't work out, but then I tried the last one, and.... bingo!
Hashed out a grid, to establish the hole centers:

Used a center puch to mark for the holes:


Put a little divet in to better visualize it:

And the final result of the practice piece - like I mentioned above, the bottom row was done with bits that didn't work out.
I'm going to change it just a touch for the actual work - the top and bottom lines of the kick-plate are not truly parallel with each other, so when I grid out the final piece, I'm gonna start at the top, and work down, and, instead of doing 6-6-5-5, from the bottom row to the top, I'm going to do 7-6-5-4.

I'm going to try to get these done tomorrow, but it may have to wait, and if so, I'll get them finished up after work on Monday and Tuesday.




