'93 F2 Mods - Phase 2
Sorry I keep bothering you about the gauge but since I have the chance to get first hand info on such an expensive part I have to exploit it...
Can you clarify how exactly does the color change work, it won`t change every time I turn the high beams on does it? Was thinking like does it change by a fast hi/lo flip? Cause then it should change color every time I flash the passing lights too?
Can you clarify how exactly does the color change work, it won`t change every time I turn the high beams on does it? Was thinking like does it change by a fast hi/lo flip? Cause then it should change color every time I flash the passing lights too?
The white background on the other side, well, it doesn't really matter, because I've got to get used to a digital display now anyway, AND the fact that now the speedo's on the right side of the tach.
Being happy with the way the tach looks is key... having a speedo is a bonus, but in races, it's just the tach and coolant temp I'll be looking at.
The truth is, I may not end up using either color, or might have to change depending on the sun's position, to find the color that gives me the best viewability for the conditions.
Sorry I keep bothering you about the gauge but since I have the chance to get first hand info on such an expensive part I have to exploit it...
Can you clarify how exactly does the color change work, it won`t change every time I turn the high beams on does it? Was thinking like does it change by a fast hi/lo flip? Cause then it should change color every time I flash the passing lights too?
Can you clarify how exactly does the color change work, it won`t change every time I turn the high beams on does it? Was thinking like does it change by a fast hi/lo flip? Cause then it should change color every time I flash the passing lights too?
I don't know anything about flashing passing lights, as U.S. bikes don't have any such feature.
Now, bear in mind, that I no longer have a high beam switch even present, so you don't have to wire the Koso high beam indicator wire, to the actual high beam switch, you could do what I've done, and just run a simple switch for this operation only (changing the display color).
With my setup, however you would not be able to rely on the gauges high beam dash indicator, but that wouldn't bother me personally on a street bike, as I KNOW when my lights are on low or high beam - it's obvious.
Well, unfortunately the tach still does not function properly, even after implementing the steps recommended by Koso support yesterday. 
I had already established the ground straight to the battery, since I had read about others that were advised to do so, then I tapped into the yellow wire from the pulse generator, and begin to test.
Starting with 1P (1 piston), and working my way up to 12P, I found that as I went higher in number, the readings got closer and closer to good, but even on the best setting (12P), it only read correctly at idle – when I rev the bike to what I know is about 6k – 7k, the tach reading is topping out at 15k, and when I would then rev from holding at 6 – 7, to what I know is about 9 – 10, the tach needle is falling back to the bottom of the range.
I’m going to call Koso again today, during lunch, and inquire again about the filters they used to send out, as those instances I’ve read about, where a filter was sent, the issue was usually resolved… this is very frustrating.
I had already established the ground straight to the battery, since I had read about others that were advised to do so, then I tapped into the yellow wire from the pulse generator, and begin to test.
Starting with 1P (1 piston), and working my way up to 12P, I found that as I went higher in number, the readings got closer and closer to good, but even on the best setting (12P), it only read correctly at idle – when I rev the bike to what I know is about 6k – 7k, the tach reading is topping out at 15k, and when I would then rev from holding at 6 – 7, to what I know is about 9 – 10, the tach needle is falling back to the bottom of the range.
I’m going to call Koso again today, during lunch, and inquire again about the filters they used to send out, as those instances I’ve read about, where a filter was sent, the issue was usually resolved… this is very frustrating.
Last edited by JNSRacing; Aug 29, 2013 at 09:58 AM.
In the instances you read about, were some of them 4 cylinders, or were they all V-twins?
What annoys me, is that the instructions give you an option (and it IS the simplest option), of just wiring directly to the OEM tach signal wire, from the CDI - the chart in the instructions even correctly identifies that the Honda RPM wire is yellow/green!
This wire works just fine with the OEM tach, so an appropriate filter to "clean up" the signal, so that it can be used by the Koso tach, seems to be a good idea to me, especially if this worked in the past, and they used to furnish them to customers.
Awesome, thanks... I hope you can find them!
I spoke with Koso tech support again, at the beginning of my lunch hour, and reported the results of their suggestions - a rep called me back moments ago, and reported that they are going to send me a filter, to be used in-line with the Koso RPM wire, and the positive probe on the coil... he said it will ship today.



