Yup, got that big washer at the local Ace Hardware store...I did mention, in those steps I outlined before, that I used the old seal, as a buffer between my rig and the new seal, right?

On the subject of the shock, and other items I received in that one shipment - I would be HATED, I mean purely HATED, if I reveald what I paid for the shock, race bodywork, header, quick-turn throttle, spare sprocket carrier, cush drive, spacers, and 46 tooth 520 rear sprocket.... HATED, I tell you!!! I will NEVER forget what that guy did for me, EVER!!

 

Just so every one knows, it was $12 and some pocket lint lol jk

On a serious note though...with aftermarket headers...you can't really run stock jets can you? To be honest, I am fine fabbing parts for my bike and making things fit that shouldn't...but messing with the carbs gives me the creeps. All my vehicles have always been injected so not much carb experience. On other words, I'm scared...carbs are my kryptonite

 

You can run 'em all you want, but you won't go anywhere as fast as you should be going!! All my fueling circuits are now modified for the new headers, and other changes that had already taken place, but I still want to fine tune the whole shabang, using some dyno time... but dyno time is expensive!

Don't show the carbs your fear!!! They'll only get even spookier!!

 

Yup you did. That's the part when I was like this guys a genious I can't believe I or apparently else who posts tutorials, ever thought of doing that. Really good idea man.
That's awesome you scored a good deal man! Gotta take what you can get these days.

Goatmaster, dont be afraid of the carbs. They're actually a pretty simple decide, particularly these kehin carbs, they have a fixed float height so you don't even have to mess with that.
All it takes is time so you can dial in your jets and clip positions and such. Unless you can afford a dyno. Then it's a bit quicker.

 

So I've never synced my carbs either, which seems like it may be a good idea. Either of you have a link to a guide on how to sync them? Also I need a jet kit so any links are awesome.

Sorry if I sorta thread hijacked you there jns, I just constantly watch over your thread and you have soooo much information .

 

No worries...my personal recommendation for jet kits is Factory Pro, that's all I use.
As far as synching the carbs, I don't know of a guide, but I'm sure there are plenty, but I just know how to do it - the tool is the key, and it's pretty intuitive, really. Now, not that synching the carbs is not important, but it is highly overrated - the only times I've done it, it wasn't even really necessary - the time it is for sure very important that you do so, is when the carbs have been separated, and potentially jacked with, or if you can visually see (or measure with feeler guages) a significant difference in the gap between the butterfly valves and venturi, when they're closed.

 

+1 on factory pro. That's who I use too. Although my current jets are keihin cause wouldn't you know it the one size I wound up needing didn't come in the kit I bought but the needles and everything else is factory pro. They have good customer service too. If you can't figure something out you can call them and they'll try to give you advice.

As far as scynching I have the gauge set cause a guy gave it to me with this old maxim I've got but I've never needed to use it. Some brands of carb are worse than others about synching. I've heard hitachi's need it done every few years but these keihin we have on the CBR are pretty bulletproof.

 

Just a couple of questions...

I noticed that your old throttle grip looks like it had a little cut off the end compared to the left grip. Your new ones look the same as each other though. Is that just due to sizing differences between brands or just how they were put on? I partly ask because my throttle grip was trimmed down to by the PO.

What is different about a quick turn throttle that makes it need to turn less? Just a wider cable grip?

I've thought about putting red trim tape on my wheels for a while and noticed you have gone that route. I'm curious what thickness you have on there? I think they come in different mm sizes.

Cheers for any info.

 

The only reason my last ones were trimmed down on the throttle side is because they were too soft of a compound and were eroding, degrading, and slipping all over the place!! I trimmed them down when I had the OEM steel bar ends on, because they were causing the throttle to stick just a wee bit - I bet that's what the PO of your bike was dealing with.

The plastic "cam", if you will, which has the channel that the cables ride in as the throttle tube rotates, is a larger circumference, so that it has more cable "pull" in relation to the overall "twist" of the throttle - mine is about 1/5 turn from closed to wide open, as opposed to the previous stock 1/2 turn....I absolutley love it, not just on the track, but on the street as well.

I've used the Pro Grip "rim detailing" tape on all my wheels, and I've never specified a size - I order mine from MotorcycleSuperstore.com, and they do require you put in a bike model, but I'm not sure if it makes any difference what you put in - I usually just choose the closest model to mine, that they list, which is an F4 or F4i, I think. For what it's worth, the strip is 6.5mm wide, and there's enough in each kit to cover both sides of two wheels, with just a little to spare (that is, if you've got a steady hand, and don't screw up and waste any length of it!!)

 

Here's some pics of the new/old Cheetah race bodywork - I'm very much looking forward to the challenge of reparing the "battle wounds" and getting them all "prettied up". I'll definitely be looking for advice on this process, as I haven't worked with fiberglass since I was about 10, and helped my father mold a new lid for one of the hard panniers on his old CB750. And, I'm definitely not a paint man - I have very little experience with painting.











The first question I have, is what kind of stripping agent would be recommended, for getting the paint off, without potentially damaging the fiberglass surface?