Valves
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June 2013 ROTM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 1
From: Victoria, BC
Valves
So I did my valves for the first time on the cbr this weekend. I had the FSM to guide me, but I found it woefully inadequate. I found doing a little extra work made the job much easier.
- FSM says to remove the only lower fairings. I had all the fairing off the bike anyways, but I removed the tank and air filter assembly as well (carbs can stay)
- I also removed the 2 bolts that hold the rad cap/thermostat assembly . This allows you to move the rad hoses around a bit.
- Easiest way is to remove the rad.Not necessary, but if you are planning on changing your coolant, it makes sense. If you are leaving the rad in, pull it forward as far as you can and tie it to the forks. Remove the rad fan.
- You will probably need to knock the cover off. Use a piece of wood to cushion your hammer blows.
- Buy a new gasket before hand. No use hoping the old one will hold up. You won't want to pull it all apart again to fix it.
- I had a variety of 1/4" and 3/8" drive 10mm sockets/ratches/extentions.
I did the intake nuts from above the carbs using an extension, and the exhaust ones using a small ratchet. I found it easiest to retighten the nuts with my fingers and then adjust the rockers using a jewelers screwdriver. Tighten the nuts and recheck. Make sure your check and double check everything with a torque wrench!
Everything else should be pretty straight forward.
I found mine to be REALLY tight, like 3-4 thou. Hopefully she will run a little better now.
- FSM says to remove the only lower fairings. I had all the fairing off the bike anyways, but I removed the tank and air filter assembly as well (carbs can stay)
- I also removed the 2 bolts that hold the rad cap/thermostat assembly . This allows you to move the rad hoses around a bit.
- Easiest way is to remove the rad.Not necessary, but if you are planning on changing your coolant, it makes sense. If you are leaving the rad in, pull it forward as far as you can and tie it to the forks. Remove the rad fan.
- You will probably need to knock the cover off. Use a piece of wood to cushion your hammer blows.
- Buy a new gasket before hand. No use hoping the old one will hold up. You won't want to pull it all apart again to fix it.
- I had a variety of 1/4" and 3/8" drive 10mm sockets/ratches/extentions.
I did the intake nuts from above the carbs using an extension, and the exhaust ones using a small ratchet. I found it easiest to retighten the nuts with my fingers and then adjust the rockers using a jewelers screwdriver. Tighten the nuts and recheck. Make sure your check and double check everything with a torque wrench!
Everything else should be pretty straight forward.
I found mine to be REALLY tight, like 3-4 thou. Hopefully she will run a little better now.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver Island, British C
I remove the rad shroud and hold the rad forward with a bungee. There's not much room in there! Easy adjustment once your in however. I've sealed the gasket for second valve check. Then it leaked the third time so IMHO change the gasket every second valve cover removal.
Thread Starter
|
June 2013 ROTM
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 1
From: Victoria, BC
I remove the rad shroud and hold the rad forward with a bungee. There's not much room in there! Easy adjustment once your in however. I've sealed the gasket for second valve check. Then it leaked the third time so IMHO change the gasket every second valve cover removal.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
(1/4 socket + nut)
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JesseAwesome
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Aug 1, 2010 09:40 PM