Can someone run through the operation of adjusting the valve clearances,
also what tools are required, I believe that there is a special Honda tool, or a torque wrench was recommended.
I have a slight tap at the moment.

I know I will have to do a carbie balance afterwards, but I will have to shop around for a balancer gauge kit

 

The honda parts that you need are easier to use than trying to improvise. The part numbers are 07GMA-ML70120 and 07GMA-ML70110.

Right here we go, slacken the locknut and turn the adjuster until the feeler gauge of the right size is a light sliding fit between the cam lobe and the follower, hold the screw and tighten the locknut to the correct torque. Recheck the clearance after the nut has been tightened and readjust if needed. Once all the clearances have been checked rotate the cam through several revolutions then recheck all clearances before replacing cylinder head cover. inlet 0.10 to 0.02mm & exhaust 0.16-0.02mm [sm=exactly.gif]

Before you start adjusting, make a written note of all clearances so you can make a picture of how the valves are wearing up.

As a point, ensure that youleave the engine to cool down over night before you do any work of this kind. If you feel that you've made a mistake then seek help before you try starting her up. Better to be safe than sorry. Good luck.....[sm=trust_me.gif]


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Life will be made much easier with the Honda Special Tool Which is essentially a 10mm socket with a handle welded on the side. But its just the right height.

You will also need a 3mm allen key. I use 2. For the inlet side I use a long t-Handle as it much easier than using a L-Shaped Allen Key. For the Exhaust side I use a Long L-Shaped allen key that has been shortened to clear the frame.

You will need to remove the coils and the Carb vent pipe. You dont need to remove the tank, but it makes life easier.

Also the radiator hose gets in the way when doing the exhaust side as it really close so I usually undo this pipe and just poke it out of the way. You loose about 500ml of fluid. You dont have to remove it but I prefer to spend extra time & remove as much of the bike as I can rather than spend extra time trying to adjust precise things with limited clearance.

You will also need to remove the left side plastic cover and crankcase cover to turn the engine. Its a 17mm socket. Try and use a 6 point hex socket rather than a 12 point socket as this cover is very soft.

After that just follow the manual (And make sure the engine is cold)

Tools:
Honda Valve Tool (Reccomended)
3mm Hex Key (1 x t-Handle & 1 x Lang L-shape cut down for clearance)
Feeler Guages (tray and get the long ones to make life easier http://www.tw-performance.com.au/cat...products_id=45 has them for $22)
8mm Socket to remove front Tank Bolts
10mm Socket to remove carb vent tube holder bolt, coils and Rocker cover bolts
14mm Socket to Turn Engine (Anticlockwise only)
17mm Socket to remove Crankcase Cover
5mm Allen Key to remove plastic Cover over Crankcase Cover

As for the Carbies you cant go past the Morgan Carbtune for ease of use.

 

I keep forgeting that some people need to know the nity-grity points of how to get to the point of action, thanks trips. That may save a few big questions later.



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I remember last year someone dropping a nut down into the engine, what was the cause of that

 

That was me caused by alcohol induced mechainc

 

Guys, just one question.

I just lifted the cams of to check the CCT. More about this in another thread. But before I removed the cams, I wanted to check the valve clearness. I have a set of feeler gauges,but in my Haynes book I couldn’t read anything on where the engine would have to be. (Don't know how to explain, but it didn’t say anything about if the cylinder 1 piston had to be in top or bottom?) I removed the left side plastic cover to removethe crankcase cover, but was unable to remove the 17mm bolt/cover?

Well what I wanted to say was that no matter where I tried with the feeler gauge, 0.1mm I couldn’t get it in anywhere? Didn’t go to 0.05mm but maybe I should have?

 

When you adjust the cams, check that the raised cam lobe is aboutstraight upwardsbefore you put in the feeler gauge under the camshaft.There are methods where you turn the crank in a couple of different positions and adjust several valves per position. I always adjust them individually as described above, to be perfectly sure that they will get the correct lash.

 

I've Odered the tool, two parts I believe, about AU$110
I have Feeler Guages, but they might be a bit crappy, so I will look or usethe link
I need the hex tools, and a Socket Set.
The Morgan Carbtune are about $200 over here I think, I can get another brand one for about $135 (Merrury)

With the socket Set, what are the smallest and bigest sockets I need?

 

Geex you got ripped off on the tool.

I was quoted $50 for the 10mm Socket Spanner.

You can buy the Carbtune direct from the manufacturer http://www.carbtune.com/carbpric.html