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Oh no! I got that to look forward to , right now I’m taking this old engine apart because it’s in a lot better nick then the one what has to go in , I think I’m might just try to use parts from the new to fix the old
I’m confused. Which one’s new and which one’s old? Which one is in bike? Have you done compression test on replacement engine from breakers?
Hey Danny lol sorry mate getting a bit flustered ! Basically the new engine is not in as good condition as the old , I’ve found the problem the oil sprocket little cog by the gearshifter wasn’t tighten enough came off and the teeth on the wheels behind the clutch basket are chewed up, haven’t done a compression test yet , just been looking inside and at the condition, what I was thinking about last night is what if I keep the bottom of the new engine and put the top end of the old one on? So just the cylinders and tappers etc from the old?
You’ve highlighted the head with the valves, the cylinders are the section below that but regardless, if the cylinders are in good condition then it will be easy to swap but you must take the pistons too (and keep the pistons in the same bores they came out of).
Hey Danny lol sorry mate getting a bit flustered ! Basically the new engine is not in as good condition as the old , I’ve found the problem the oil sprocket little cog by the gearshifter wasn’t tighten enough came off and the teeth on the wheels behind the clutch basket are chewed up, haven’t done a compression test yet , just been looking inside and at the condition, what I was thinking about last night is what if I keep the bottom of the new engine and put the top end of the old one on? So just the cylinders and tappers etc from the old?
The loose oil-pump gear is on replacement engine? I thought that was installed in bike now?
Only edges of that clutch-basket gear is mininally damaged. It’s just flesh wound!
Should drop bore-scope down sparks hole in both engines and inspect their bores.
Need to do more objective testing and measuring of these engines to determine their actual condition before tearing them apart. This is extreme procedure requiring lots of precision and skill that most pro garages won’t even attempt. It is possible you will end up with 3rd engine that’s worse than either of these two. I really don’t recommend you do it.
Cheers Dan , so the oil pump sprocket I didn’t torque and that’s what basically came lose and ripped up the teeth and then seized the engine I don’t know what other damage was caused so basically what I’m doing is transferring all the good stuff from the bad engine to the good engine
saying that the good engine looks like it’s never had an oil change thick Nutella inside , I’ve removed the sump and had it sitting over night and got my hand in with a rag and cleaned as much gunk out of it
I’ve now got the rocker cover off of the bad engine and straight away I can see some churned up metal by the valves I’ll drop a picture below,
what I was thinking is if I take the top end out of the bad one and put in to the good one because there s a bit of rust on the good ones
So in the old engine when I crank it it’s gurgling and you can feel and here the compression as the wheels is turning however on the new engine when I crank it it just turns I can’t feel any compression or hear any gurgling what could this mean? That it has no compression?
So without carrying out a compression test , cranking the new engine it just span and there was no air or gurgling etc when I rotate it, that leads me to believe that air must be getting past the pistons , so what I’m thinking is if I get the new engine top all stripped and remove the piston heads but don’t touch any of the bottom , then I swap the heads of pistons and everything above with the old engine ??