CBR 600F 1987 - 1990 CBR 600F Forum

Bought '87 Hurricane- What on Earth is this?

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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 07:39 AM
  #41  
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carb sync will do a lot to help running quality. and as far as fuss stuck in screws, use one of these...Klein 70220 Reversible Impact-Driver Set
 
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #42  
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Syncing the carbs is mandatory any time they are cleaned or modified in any way. If you plan on tuning the bike yourself it is a required tool to have. The morgan carbtune or equivalent is available for $100+, or you can make your own as I suggested earlier for under $30.

I would be happy to take pictures of my setup in a couple days when I have some free time.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 08:13 AM
  #43  
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Ordered the Morgan Carbtune Pro! Going to take about 2 weeks for it to get here, but it seems to be "the" carb sync tool from what I read.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TahoeRider
It will take a bit of fuel to fill all 4 bowls up initially from dry, but after that it should not be going through too much fuel running at idle or cranking over. Are you running it off the fuel tank or some other auxiliary setup? I'm curious as to how much fuel it's actually consuming while trying to start it.

Did you adjust the air/fuel screws or any of the 3 screws across the throttle linkage? If they have gotten out of sync by a fair amount it will also be difficult to get started. Also might try turning the idle screw up a bit and see if that helps at all.

Does it try to fire at all or sputter or do anything when cranking it over? After storing mine for the winter it will usually take a fair amount of cranking to get to the point where it starts to fire up and run. Sometimes 25-30 seconds of cranking before I get enough fuel to get it running. Once it does fire up and start running it idles perfectly fine.
Trying to get it started now to tune carbs and can not get it to start. It is trying to start. It actually backfired. We put enough gas in.

What direction should I move idle screw in?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #45  
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Also, we changed oil, coolant, and have fresh gas.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #46  
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Bought new battery. Hoping that was issue...
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #47  
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Have you completely cleaned the carbs?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #48  
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Could be a dirty pilot circuit in one or more carbs if the jets weren't taken out and all the passages blown out with compressed air & carb cleaner. How do the plugs look, as in color and are they fouled with fuel from trying to start the bike? If the idle was set too low it would have trouble starting cold, backing the screw out & raising the idle speed a little will help if that was the case. Have you checked/adjusted the valve clearances yet?

If the carb sync is way off it can be hard to start as well. Try hooking up the carbtune and see how it reacts while cranking the bike over. You won't get a perfect reading, but one or two carbs may be way out of adjustment and pulling more vacuum than the others. If you can get them roughly in the same area while cranking the engine it will probably become easier to start.

I should have mentioned this before also, but make sure you all your adjustments for valve clearance, carb air/fuel ratio, idle speed, etc. before doing the final carb sync when the engine is warmed up to operating temp. All of those things can affect the sync and you'll have to re-check it again if you change anything.

edit: you might try disconnecting the fuel pump and connect it to the battery, and run it until the bowls fill up and it stops clicking. The center two carbs fill with fuel first and sometimes the engine will only be firing on 2 cylinders until all 4 bowls are full. This might help with the initial start-up too until you get the bike up & running. You are using full choke when trying to start it correct? The description makes it sound like a lean condition.. fuel delivery issue, dirty pilot circuit, choke not on, etc.
 

Last edited by TahoeRider; Aug 11, 2013 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by TahoeRider
Could be a dirty pilot circuit in one or more carbs if the jets weren't taken out and all the passages blown out with compressed air & carb cleaner. How do the plugs look, as in color and are they fouled with fuel from trying to start the bike? If the idle was set too low it would have trouble starting cold, backing the screw out & raising the idle speed a little will help if that was the case. Have you checked/adjusted the valve clearances yet?

If the carb sync is way off it can be hard to start as well. Try hooking up the carbtune and see how it reacts while cranking the bike over. You won't get a perfect reading, but one or two carbs may be way out of adjustment and pulling more vacuum than the others. If you can get them roughly in the same area while cranking the engine it will probably become easier to start.

I should have mentioned this before also, but make sure you all your adjustments for valve clearance, carb air/fuel ratio, idle speed, etc. before doing the final carb sync when the engine is warmed up to operating temp. All of those things can affect the sync and you'll have to re-check it again if you change anything.

edit: you might try disconnecting the fuel pump and connect it to the battery, and run it until the bowls fill up and it stops clicking. The center two carbs fill with fuel first and sometimes the engine will only be firing on 2 cylinders until all 4 bowls are full. This might help with the initial start-up too until you get the bike up & running. You are using full choke when trying to start it correct? The description makes it sound like a lean condition.. fuel delivery issue, dirty pilot circuit, choke not on, etc.
We put brand new spark plugs in and are now trying to start it. The old ones indicated that the bike had been running too rich.

Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean when you say "valve clearance"?

Yes, we are using full choke when trying to crank it over.

Bought a new battery today and are charging it tomorrow.
 
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