Thanks, guys. Trying the t-handle screwdriver tomorrow. And then onto impact driver if necessary. Gonna keep hitting it with WD-40 every few hours, too.

 

Good idea. I think we're looking to replace quite a few misc. screws and bolts elsewhere on the bike, too. Might as well make it easier to access in future.

 

Trust me if you have to do any carb tuning for a jet kit putting socket caps in is a lifesaver. I would try to find stainless steel so they dont rust. If you cant get stainless bolts at lowes I'm sure fastenal will have them

 

no they don't, in fact it's much easier the pry the carbs from the bike with this plate still there.
just undo choke cable, the 4 clamps to the intake, and remove all fuel and vac lines then pop the carb set off... from here it's very easy to pull the carb rack towards the handlebars to undo the throttle cables.

unless you want to seperate the rack that plate does not need to be removed. Just a simple jet cleaning does not warrant the entire rack to be split

 

You may be right its been a while since I messed with mine. I think I was taking mine off when I was setting the needle height in the slides with the carbs still in to make it easier to get to the covers

 

Hmm. We want to do the most thorough cleaning possible without having to resync them. (I know.) What would you recommend?

 

If you can get them out without taking the plate off go for it like I said it's been a while since I messed with mine. As long as you can get the bowls off with it there you should be ok

 

yes you can remove the carbs without taking this plate off i used impact driver after i took out carbs to remove plate

 

You will be fine keeping the carb bank together and cleaning it that way. The only time I would recommend breaking the bank is if you have corroded O-rings to replace in the carbs. The only time I have broken them was to replace a bent butterfly valve. All you'll need to do is just open up the float bowls and clean the jets.

Yep, the first ever time I had to remove the plate, I too needed an impact driver. Those screws deform way too easily

 

^^ this

Don't bother trying to take the screws out. You can do all the cleaning necessary leaving that plate on and keeping the rack of carbs together.

As far as re-syncing the carbs, even cleaning them can affect the individual vacuum readings requiring them to be adjusted. It's not very difficult and I built a homemade manometer for less than $15 to do it with. I would strongly suggest building or buying the tool and doing the re-sync. If they are already out of sync now the idle and power output should improve by a noticeable amount after adjusting.