Personally I've always gone by the manual whether it was a car or bike on break-in procedures. However, I think now it doesn't matter as much since the machining and tolerances can be more precise. Another thing the lawyers probably consider is someone who's never been on a liter bike who takes off like a bat outta hell on it, wrecks, then sues them. They want you to get used to the bike. I remember reading years ago about a woman who sued Porsche because the car that she wrecked was too powerful!

 

That's just plain funny.

Duh! That's why lawyers were the first thing I mentioned. And who said to redline the engine? Not me.

This guy doesn't understand how engines break-in, he's fixated on RPM. And the aircraft industry he so adores recommends full power take-offs, which is not consistent with his advice. To seat the rings you need high cylinder pressures, that means heavy throttle.

I think it's hilarious how people worship the instructions from Honda, thinking they're the perfect way to break-in the engine. They're a joke, all they say is don't crash. If there's one thing that's universally accepted it's that constant RPM break-ins are bad. Why doesn't the owner's manual say anything about that?

Let me revise my statement about satisfactory break-in with Honda's instructions... It's possible, but not guaranteed. A 300 mile limp-wristed sleepy Sunday cruise (completely consistent with Honda's instructions) will result in a rather poor break-in. And don't think Honda will fix your engine because it burns a little extra oil. Getting Honda to perform major engine work under warranty takes an act of congress.

The best break-in involves breaking the rules. You don't have to flog the **** out of the engine but you do need to ignore what Honda's lawyers have told you. I'm done with this thread, I've got things to do. You can have the last word...

 

Look, I have no interest in continuing this conversation either. I certainly was not, and am not looking to have a beef with you.

Let me just end by applying some simple observations. First, I'd be willing to bet that many, if not most people break in their bikes by the book - or nearly so. There are some people who break 'em in hard. If your claim that "to seat rings you need high cylinder pressures and heavy throttle" were true, then there would be a BUNCH of newish Honda bikes out there blowing blue smoke. It would be a worldwide problem with all displacements and all types. Honda's reputation would be damaged, and people wouldn't buy their bikes. The fact is, that isn't a problem, and therefore your claim can't be true. My bike doesn't burn oil, and if WOT were required to seat rings, mine certainly wouldn't be seated, but they are as evidenced by no oil burn.

You can say anything you want, but your claims simply don't stand up to simple observation.

 

i think this guy knows what hes doing http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I changed my oil at 70 miles, and then gotta change it at the 400 mile mark on my new motor... probably do it next weekend... got about 325 on my bike from this weekend.

The key to a proper break in is hard acceleration 2nd,3rd,4th gears and hard decel. Its all about proper ring seating... If my motor doesnt last 30,000 miles from that i will be surprised... no oil contamination... and 2%-10% more horsepower. weather thats noticeable or not... i dyno is a way to tell i guess.

 

I was going to suggest the mototune site. I had a hard debate with that about 4 years ago until I learned that when engines are brand new they are redlined after coming off the assembly line.

 

Thank you all for your info ,i have read and am going to put all info to good use. thanks again and i think ill just cruz the bike around town with short burst of high no wot. thanks again hondas is still a honda . long live honda everyone, we all love them.
thanks again

 

P.S thos links are very good info also. they make sences.

 

One more thing can or has anyone heard of brakeing in a motor with a full exhasut from the start.

 

i cant see it being a problem, but it might be a problem who knows... could shorten the life of something in there.... wait on the exhaust till ya got 500 miles on the motor.... Change the oil at like 70 miles then again at 4 or 500. then regular intervals at about 1400miles.

 

The concern here is the fuel map. If you're not running lean with the full system then it's fine for break-in. But really, it'd be simpler to just break it in with the stock setup. If you do it right you'll have the engine well broken in before 300 miles. After that you can install the full system, power commander and head to the dyno.