Hey guys,

For what its worth I had a similar problem with my electrical charging system to the battery on my 1992 Honda CBR600F2. And here is what I found, in case it might help anyone else. I was having a problem where I could start with a fully charged battery (I keep it on a battery saver in the garage), and after a 5 mile ride, the battery was weak and my engine would shut down. If I let it sit for a while I could get a small buildup charge on the battery, push start it and ride it another few miles before it would shut down again. What I came to realize was that my battery was not being charged as I was riding it, and the bike can't run without the battery the way a car can. With help from a friend and some online info, we found that parts involved in this process and a way to test it.

The stator is just under the cover on the left side and is easy to access, but will drain oil to the floor when you open it up there so be ready. Looking at the stator, its a collection of windings around a center spool that rests inside a magnetic field. The rotation of the field generates AC current in the windings and this feeds through the wire harness up through the regulator/rectifer circuit and then finally to the battery. Now you can do 2 tests to see whats going on. The unloaded test means the stator is not connected to the rest of the circuit, and at idle you should read about 50V AC at the plug. (test with your meter from the back of the plug so you dont bend the metal connectors on the front of the plug). When the stator plug is connected to the rest of the circuit, it should pull down to about 20V AC and this is at idle around 2000 revs. It will go up higher while loaded or unloaded when you rev up the engine. Now, its the job of the regulator rectifier circuit, to flip the negative part of the AC up to positive and chop it, clean it up and give about 14V DC to the battery for maintaining the charge. In my case it was the regulator/rectifier that was causing my problem. It was pulling down the loaded 20V AC voltage to about 2V whenever it was connected. So it's my plan to replace the reg/rec circuit device and see if that fixes my problem. That's much easier to get to and replace than the stator. Its a small black device on the back right side just below the seat. I attached a picture of mine here.



I hope this helps anyone else who is struggling with a similar problem. I'll try to post again later if this ends up fixing my problem. I sure hope so cause it sucks getting stranded with a discharged battery, especially when its hot out and you don't want to leave your bike on the side of the road.

Cheers,
-Dr D

 

Well with the new part, I now have a nice 12.9V DC staying on the battery, even after it runs for 10 minutes or more, but the bike has a problem starting each time now. The first time, I would hear a relay click and then a high pitched hum. Like a stuck solonoid or something. It took many tries over 15 minutes to finally get the engine to turn over. Then the next try it started, no problem, and it ran at idle for 15 minutes and the battery was not discharged slowly like before. But trying to start it again the next day - same problem.. After key turns the bike on, lights and instruments at full brightness. Hit starter switch, lights and instruments pulled down to half brightness, relay click sound, followed by high pitch hum. Engine won't start - battery reads fine. Is it a bad starter ?

-Dr D

 

Is that 12.9 volts with the engine running? Unless your battery is pulling a large charging current, your battery should see at least 13.5 to 14.0 volts with the engine running. With an F2 you may need more than idle RPM to get decent charging current.

As for the starting problem, it could be caused by a discharged or worn out battery that has no capacity. It could be a loose connection somewhere. Check the voltage at the battery terminals during one of these failed start attempts.

 

My experiance... 04 1000rr, at about 12K miles i think, stator burnt up one leg. honda extended waranty on this part replaced my stator and r/r for free. so if you have a total system failier its most likley the stator, take the cover and look for a dark black stator leg. I bought an extra i am willing to sell if anyone needs on for an 04-05.. hit me up if you need a verbal explanation 770-324-3792 eastern standard USA time. anytime in the evening. peace...