2004 cbr1000r raptor build.. Need help!
#1
2004 cbr1000r raptor build.. Need help!
Hello everyone! I have been reading threads on this forum for a while.. now I need a little help from you experts. I am building a 660 Raptor quad with a 2004 cbr1000rr engine and I am having a little trouble. All the fabrication is finished and the motor is in but I can’t get it to fire up. It cranks over perfect but I am not getting any spark. I have been going thought the manual but I am stuck. Any ideas or advice is much appreciated.
Things I have done:
• Bypassed clutch switch
• Bypassed kick stand switch
• Bypassed tip sensor
• Checked 12v at fuel injectors
• Checked 12v at coils
• New spark plug for checking
• Has good ground
• Checked all relays/ fuses
• Checked power/ ground to computer
• Checked crank sensor
• Using original ignition switch ( no resistor on this motor )
• Using original dash
• Trans is in neutral
Possible problems:
1. Mil light is steadily on so it might have a bad computer (doesn’t blink for codes)
2. No power to Fuel pump and tank isnt hooked up (do I need fuel to see spark?)
3. Two additional wires under kill switch but don’t know what they are.. (switch works and also cranks it)
Things I have done:
• Bypassed clutch switch
• Bypassed kick stand switch
• Bypassed tip sensor
• Checked 12v at fuel injectors
• Checked 12v at coils
• New spark plug for checking
• Has good ground
• Checked all relays/ fuses
• Checked power/ ground to computer
• Checked crank sensor
• Using original ignition switch ( no resistor on this motor )
• Using original dash
• Trans is in neutral
Possible problems:
1. Mil light is steadily on so it might have a bad computer (doesn’t blink for codes)
2. No power to Fuel pump and tank isnt hooked up (do I need fuel to see spark?)
3. Two additional wires under kill switch but don’t know what they are.. (switch works and also cranks it)
Last edited by BigGreg; 10-01-2010 at 04:50 PM.
#2
I would hook up the fuel pump and tank. that way, if it doesn't prime when you turn on the ignition, you will know there is something more than just the spark plugs not firing. If it does prime, chances are its only related between the sparkplugs, the coils and pulse generator as most saftey things cut power to both. If the pump does not prime, you can then assume one of your bypasses did not work. Keep in mind, depending on if you have open or closed switch, will determine whether or not you wire the ends together, or just unplug them. Not all of the switches will be the same. Also, the bypass for the bas sensor is wiring together the two outer wires, while leaving the middle wire unhooked.
As for the two wires under the killswitch. Those are more than likely the front brake light wires.
Your light is probably on if you disconnected the exhaust flapper control silenoid. If you still have it, plug it back in and the light should go out.
If everything you've tested is correct. I just don't know why the engine wouldnt fire. My best guess would be one of the bypasses are not correct.
As for the two wires under the killswitch. Those are more than likely the front brake light wires.
Your light is probably on if you disconnected the exhaust flapper control silenoid. If you still have it, plug it back in and the light should go out.
If everything you've tested is correct. I just don't know why the engine wouldnt fire. My best guess would be one of the bypasses are not correct.
#3
Thanks for your input! So.. last night I started on the fuel system. I wired in the pump and found out that I am not getting power to it at all. It is wired to the green and brown wires. The manual says it is supposed to have 12 volts for a few seconds when you flip the start switch. I jumped the fuel pump relay and it started working. I swapped out the headlight relay with the pump relay and the pump still doesn’t get power. Something is up!
I wired the bas sensor green to red with the white one hanging after a lot of research. I can also hear the relay switch over when I put these two wires together so I a pretty sure it is wired correctly. I’ve also tried open and closed loops for the clutch and stand switch. It should start right up anyways as its in neutral though right? I also have the flapper/ servo still hooked up.
I am going to buy a new computer just so I can eliminate it being the problem. I’ll keep at it though!
I wired the bas sensor green to red with the white one hanging after a lot of research. I can also hear the relay switch over when I put these two wires together so I a pretty sure it is wired correctly. I’ve also tried open and closed loops for the clutch and stand switch. It should start right up anyways as its in neutral though right? I also have the flapper/ servo still hooked up.
I am going to buy a new computer just so I can eliminate it being the problem. I’ll keep at it though!
#4
#5
The one looks like the air temp sensor wire for the air box, but not 100 percent sure.
As for the other plug. If that is the headlight plug, how is the Bank angle sensor plugged in? It should be attached to that wiring harness. The headlights and bas are on the same wiring harness since the bas originally sat between the headlight buckets.
As far as I know, the only thing that stops the fuel pump from priming is the bank angle sensor, and the kill switch. Since it sounds like the bas is bypassed correctly, I would look very close at the kill switch being the problem. They can sometimes be damaged internally. I would consider bypassing the killswitch and see if it starts.
and yes, as long as the bike is neutral, the clutch switch and kickstand switch have no effect on the bike.
pretty sweet build so far though. My next project is going to be an R1 raptor. Im a bit jeleous right now.
As for the other plug. If that is the headlight plug, how is the Bank angle sensor plugged in? It should be attached to that wiring harness. The headlights and bas are on the same wiring harness since the bas originally sat between the headlight buckets.
As far as I know, the only thing that stops the fuel pump from priming is the bank angle sensor, and the kill switch. Since it sounds like the bas is bypassed correctly, I would look very close at the kill switch being the problem. They can sometimes be damaged internally. I would consider bypassing the killswitch and see if it starts.
and yes, as long as the bike is neutral, the clutch switch and kickstand switch have no effect on the bike.
pretty sweet build so far though. My next project is going to be an R1 raptor. Im a bit jeleous right now.
#6
I got it running!!! It was wired up wrong.. Who would of thought that the servo and spark connectors where the same! The thing now though is that it only runs with the starter button pushed in. I can start it and let it run forever perfect but as soon as I let out the starter button it turns off. It’s like I hit the kill switch when I let the button out.. Idk what it could be.
Another problem is that the fuel pump doesn’t work correctly. The fuel pump relay just clicks and clicks. I tried swapping relays and still have the same issue. The pump turns on and works fine when I fire it up though. When I disconnect the pump the relay works fine and doesn’t click like crazy. I get a good 12v for a few seconds so it can prime. Also, I tried hooking up a small pump and it sometimes worked. It clicked a few times then primed just fine.
Any thoughts or ideas?
Another problem is that the fuel pump doesn’t work correctly. The fuel pump relay just clicks and clicks. I tried swapping relays and still have the same issue. The pump turns on and works fine when I fire it up though. When I disconnect the pump the relay works fine and doesn’t click like crazy. I get a good 12v for a few seconds so it can prime. Also, I tried hooking up a small pump and it sometimes worked. It clicked a few times then primed just fine.
Any thoughts or ideas?
#8
You got some serious wiring issues. The IAT sensor needs to be in an airbox metering the temperature for one. The ecu is reading inputs from all those sensors and if they dont fall into range your going to get FI faults and it wont run right. It's not the first ive seen but its still cool. You have to know what everything does and how it affects the system though before you eliminate it. Also did you use the ignition switch from the bike? Im not 100% on the rr but f4/f4i have a pink wire from the ignition switch to the ecu. It has a 3.9v .5watt zener diode wired into the circuit to reduce voltage on that pink wire. It's purpose is to prevent someone from hotwiring 12v to the system and stilling the bike. It basically tell the ecu not fire the pump and possibly spark. Just something to remember.
#9
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