These bikes were not built around iridium plugs.
If you're running the correct plugs for your bike with correct gap, it will run fine.

If your bike requires a colder running plug due to high modification or compression, by all means, use iridium.
However, that's usually not the case and I (as well as most 1000F owners) don't use iridium plugs.

The newest 1000RR is running what, like 12.3:1 vs the 1000F at 10.5:1.
If the manufacturer suggests running iridium plugs in your higher compression engine, go for it. I won't speculate on whether you could run a regular plug with no ill effects/power loss in your RR.

I just get tired of all the BS out there that iridium add all this HP to everything, etc.

If you want to spend 10-15x more for plugs for your 1000F, then by all means... do it.

But in this case, it's not gonna add HP or conserve all this fuel or whatever. If it did, and was proven, we'd all be running them.
In this case, fire is fire.
I've seen people get into bigger wires and iridium plugs, and hotter ignitions, etc. only to find that ther is no measurable power increase because they were getting plenty of spark to begin with. In that case, fire was fire.

 

I switched to the irridiums last year and found that cold starts were easier, less cranking on the starter.

 

Trout Iridiums have a .7mm electrode much smaller than the 1.1mm platinum or 1.5mm
std plugs and do actually run a hotter than normal spark as a result of the
.7mm electrode........they help easier cold starting but really unless you run a high
compression or variable compression (super/turbo charged) motor the gains are
really relative to longevity and smoother performance.

The Hi Perf Iridiums go to .4mm electrodes.......even hotter

Ask me where I got that info' ????

But then there's this argument.....LOL (anyone for WD40 talk)

 

sprock,
listen up, sweetheart. Iridium plugs are a fine wire electrode plug, and being made by iridium requires less voltage to jump the gap. Less resistence causes less heat. You want your spark to ignite the air/fuel and NOT be absorbed into the center electrode and ground which causes heat quenching. You want all the heat energy you can muster to fire the spark and not be absorbed in your plug. When plugs get too hot, they can cause pre-detonation etc. In higher compression engines which, produce more heat, this is ideal because you want your plug to stay cooler.

Another way (and the best way) to make a plug run cooler is to change it's ability to transfer heat from the firing tip to the engine head.

Now, go grab a couple of cans of WD and get back on the boat.

 

Well Trout.............Let me show you this then

http://www.automedia.com/Iridium_Spa...ht20010101ds/1

Any comment ??

 

I can't comment without name calling.... and that's not allowed here...

But seriously, sprock.. what do you think the guy's problem was in the article? Do you think he was running too cold of a plug?

 

nah man it's just the smaller core iridiums shoot stronger spark is all
he had a point but he was talking the .4mm racing version the .7mm
std is not the same.

But I remember using 4 post (electrodes) plugs in an alfa romeo I had
by Lodge Spark Plugs then later Bosch had a similar 4 post...............

Now those babies produced huge spark and were amazing but were only
good for about 7500 miles