The picture in the service manuel looks like a standard type auto thermostat. It is probably smaller than most car thermostats but it might be worth a shot to see if alternate parts are available.

 

There was a guy selling fan temp sensors for our bikes on e-Bay.com a while back - I would just fit a separate switch for your fan - much cheaper and effective !
The fan has a separate sensor as far as I remember - the gauge temp unit fits just behind the thermostat, the fan one goes in the radiator (I think) the gauge temp sensor is a generic part available from any spares shop for around $12. Don't pay Honda prices. They are quite easy to break too........being a hollow tube....(ask me how I know)

I think maybe my temp sensor is off then because my fan doesnt kick in until a little past 3/4.....
Mine does the same - always has and it's a lot hotter here than Connecticut..............
If your fan is running and your water level is right, your bike won't cook....your legs might, but not your engine...

 

Google is your friend. Stant thermo # 13868 = ST1100, #13878 = 02 VFR.
both go in various Honda civics. Take your thermostat to an auto parts store and match it up. Let me know what you find.

Just checked. The '93 ST100 has the same thermostat as '93 CBR1000F.

 

https://cbrforum.com/forum/alternative-parts-80/temperature-sender-unit-91683/
From the history file.....................damn I've been here too long

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I think to replace the cap, thermostat and both temp sensors is going to be under $50 so i guess its not too big of a deal.

Bassman, do you have any idea what cars share the same thermo?

Would getting a cooler thermo be an upgrade since these bikes seem to run hot anyways? Also when does the stock thermo open?

 

That is darn good info

 

SHO- '73-'80 civics among a whole lot of other Honda cars. You can go to the Stant web site and look up the part# to find the applications. I don't know the openning temp for our bikes but I think that it would be 180F like cars. Motor oils need to run 180-200 to keep water from accumulating in the crankcase. The auto parts might respond faster to keep the motor closer to 180-190. If I get ambitious I might change mine out. The hadest part is taking the plastic off.

 

Thanks again for all the info. I just got back from a 2hr ride and my temps looked fine at a little below half going 60mph or so. (even cooler on the highway) I think ill wait until next season to do the cooling stuff.