If it did not rattle before the CCT work, it sounds like you are one tooth off on one of the cams. I will bet it is the intake cam.
You have to do it by the book. It is important to use the proper timing marks (you already know this).
Both cams need to read up and the EX cam up front needs to have the EX-- mark inline with the top of the head while the IN cam is up and the IN-- mark is inline with the head. This needs to happen when the later T mark is lined up with the forward SWID index mark while rotating CCW.

BTW, if you drop anything down the hole, you can pull the bottom sump cover off and retrieve it. I know this from experience.

 

I have been down that road, it's very easy to do.
Actually, i had to take it apart and I kept putting it back wrong three times before I got it right.
It can be tricky.

 

Yes, about 30k miles ago. I got the EX cam lined up but when I was putting the IN cam back in I was always 1 tooth out so I went one tooth in the opposite direction on installation and I was dead on in final installation.

I did not remove both cams, just the IN, when replacing the CCT. I even marked the chain and sprockets with red grease pens. That's how I knew I was out. I thought that I had made a mistake and started the bike and the damn thing rattled like a crazy maraca.

 

Guys, I wish the rattle was new, but the reason for redoing the CCT was because of the new (different rattle)
I've had the timing checked by two different bike mechs yesterday, and the timing is spot on the marks, as TBT mentioned.
When I had the starter damper out recently, I thought the tensioner on the primary was a bit slack, but never having done a tensioner on a primary I wasn't sure just how much pressure there should be.
This I know, the bike is running like a raped rabbit, BUT, the idle is lumpy, and THIS is when you hear the chain, when the bike is cold, or when the idle drops down too far.
I will be checking the balancer shaft this week, but my first job will be to balance the carbs, as this I think could also be making the problem worse.
Thanks to all for the input

 

Not always. I had a locknut come off no3 exhaust and dissapear into the engine.

Pulled the exhaust, sump off etc only to find it landed in between the camchain & guide but somehow never jammed up the works.

 

I've just spoken to a mate of mine who has HUGE experience - he says - you should balance the carbs every time you remove them from the bike. He says the bike is "fighting itself" at low revs, and this will cause the chains to "whip". Above 1400RPM NO noise, he says because there's more vacuum, and the higher revs seem to make the engine "smooth out" and therefore no chain rattle.
I'll be borrowing a carb balancing unit from this same mate, and I'll keep you up dated.
Until it's done, I'll keep the idle up a bit..........................
Thanks again, much appreciated.