how to bleed the clutch?????
#11
#12
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Republic of Boon Island
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Teflon tape around the clutch slave nipple threads before you try anything .....stops air
bubbles getting back in...... you'll be on a road to frustration without this !
and of course you need a clear visible line on the clutch slave nipple going to a 1/3 cup of fluid
and that line needs to be full and going "uphill" so bubbles bleed out and you can see them rising
and when it's all clear (good meaning all bled out ) too.
Then pump (hold down)......open slightly clutch slave nipple ...close
Then pump (hold down) .......open slightly clutch slave nipple ....close
Keep going until it gets firm (this will take quite a bit of time) and you'll
need a good supply of clean clear fluid going in the top master all the time
Do Not Let the top Master run "dry" or you are back to where you started
only worse ....more micro air bubble to flush out.
then leave over night with rubber band pulling clutch in (lets any micro
air bubbles out back up to the top master )
it's how I do it anyhow ...........a mity vac can help speed up the initial
bleed down and up through the clutch slave nipple
bubbles getting back in...... you'll be on a road to frustration without this !
and of course you need a clear visible line on the clutch slave nipple going to a 1/3 cup of fluid
and that line needs to be full and going "uphill" so bubbles bleed out and you can see them rising
and when it's all clear (good meaning all bled out ) too.
Then pump (hold down)......open slightly clutch slave nipple ...close
Then pump (hold down) .......open slightly clutch slave nipple ....close
Keep going until it gets firm (this will take quite a bit of time) and you'll
need a good supply of clean clear fluid going in the top master all the time
Do Not Let the top Master run "dry" or you are back to where you started
only worse ....more micro air bubble to flush out.
then leave over night with rubber band pulling clutch in (lets any micro
air bubbles out back up to the top master )
it's how I do it anyhow ...........a mity vac can help speed up the initial
bleed down and up through the clutch slave nipple
Last edited by Sprock; 08-28-2011 at 11:27 AM.
#13
Ok, i tried that... And for 2 hours nothing! I was about to give up when i decided to start pumping fluid backwards through the system untill lots of fluid came out the banjo bolt by the master cyl. Then i connected it back to the master cyl. And viola it worked, i had resistance!!!! Hoooooray. I just got back from the first test ride since she went down over a week ago. Not sure if its me but she felt heavy, it could of been the wind as well. Or its just cause i dont want to low side again, oh well ill figure it out in a few days. Thanks for all the help. Mike
#14
#15
Yea I figured that out the hard way, you barley get any movement if the lines are empty, and I think its way easier to fill it back wards. I also found out I need a left crank case cover and gasket. I dont see a crack, but I got a leak there, so I will go to my local salvage yard and pick one up and order a new gasket. Thanks again everyone.
#16
I used a plastic syringe doing my breaks, something like this.... 100cc Plastic Syringe
Worked a treat. Just jam a clear plastic tube on the end & attach to yer nipple & start pumping.
Perhaps could be used on the clutch also ?
Worked a treat. Just jam a clear plastic tube on the end & attach to yer nipple & start pumping.
Perhaps could be used on the clutch also ?
Last edited by mrchips; 08-28-2011 at 05:21 PM.
#17
#18
Ok, bit of an update, I took the bike to work today, but my clutch is starting to slip. I think there may still be air in the system. I will bleed the clutch again in hopes that I dont have to replace my clutches. I have the handle wrapped to the bars tonight to see if that will help. Tomorrow I will pick up some DOT4 and bleed it properly. Also is ther a dye I can use to ensure the clutch was fully bled?
Mike
Mike
#19
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Air in the clutch line won't have anything to do with a clutch slipping Fox, the opposite in
fact it will get to be a pain in the azz trying to disengage/engage the clutch with air
in the line , sounds like slipping plates to me.... no auto energy conserving oil went into
it I hope ? !!! cuz that **** will make a clutch slip quicker than a monkey can scratch his ****
fact it will get to be a pain in the azz trying to disengage/engage the clutch with air
in the line , sounds like slipping plates to me.... no auto energy conserving oil went into
it I hope ? !!! cuz that **** will make a clutch slip quicker than a monkey can scratch his ****
#20
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rebel Cave in the Carolinas
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Hey:
You could use ATE SuperBlue, http://www.sparepartsnmore.com/oils-...ake-fluid.html, or go for one of these dyes but neither is cheap
https://www.riskreactor.com/Fluoresc...escent_Dye.htm or Spectronics Corp, Oil-Glo 50, a fluorescent dye that glows bright red.
http://www.ussap.com/Universal-UV-DY...ds_p_1058.html
Dub
You could use ATE SuperBlue, http://www.sparepartsnmore.com/oils-...ake-fluid.html, or go for one of these dyes but neither is cheap
https://www.riskreactor.com/Fluoresc...escent_Dye.htm or Spectronics Corp, Oil-Glo 50, a fluorescent dye that glows bright red.
http://www.ussap.com/Universal-UV-DY...ds_p_1058.html
Dub
Last edited by CBR1988; 08-30-2011 at 07:51 PM. Reason: added inks