Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
#1
Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
Hi Everybody,
I was reading through some of the posts on this forum and came across a bit of information about replacing the stock R/R on Hondas with one off a R1. When I went to link attached to the post there was a really good article detailing how to do this. Unfortunately, when I looked at my own bike I found that there were 6 wires to the R/R not the 4 or 5 mentioned on the article.
Has anybody done this to their 1000F, if so where do the extra wires from my bike go to?
I was reading through some of the posts on this forum and came across a bit of information about replacing the stock R/R on Hondas with one off a R1. When I went to link attached to the post there was a really good article detailing how to do this. Unfortunately, when I looked at my own bike I found that there were 6 wires to the R/R not the 4 or 5 mentioned on the article.
Has anybody done this to their 1000F, if so where do the extra wires from my bike go to?
#2
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
Firstly, welcome to the Forum.......
Secondly, why on earth would you want to fit an R1 R/R to a Hurricane ?????
Asking for trouble IMHO- a Hurricane has, I believe, 3 field current wires,(yellow)1 Blue wire , one black wire, and a green earth wire, and there are plenty of documented cases of guys (like me) having had problems with the standard fitting R/R without trying to complicate matters even further by fitting something off a Yamaha (YUCK) Certain R/R's are designed for use with brushless alternators, some not. Yamaha parts are NOT designed for Honda CBR 1000F's. I have an R/R from a Fireblade - that has 5 wires...........I wouldn't even think of trying to fit it.
If you want wiring diagrams, I'll send them to you, but do yourself a favour - concentrate on the normal mundane things that happen to Hurricanes ( like r/r's, camchains and tensioners, tuning of carbs, setting valve clearances, and general maintenance) and STAY AWAY from messing with the reg/reg if it's working OK- believe me, you don't know what you're getting into .......I've had 5 r/r's , two stators, and two batteries in the last 3 years......
Secondly, why on earth would you want to fit an R1 R/R to a Hurricane ?????
Asking for trouble IMHO- a Hurricane has, I believe, 3 field current wires,(yellow)1 Blue wire , one black wire, and a green earth wire, and there are plenty of documented cases of guys (like me) having had problems with the standard fitting R/R without trying to complicate matters even further by fitting something off a Yamaha (YUCK) Certain R/R's are designed for use with brushless alternators, some not. Yamaha parts are NOT designed for Honda CBR 1000F's. I have an R/R from a Fireblade - that has 5 wires...........I wouldn't even think of trying to fit it.
If you want wiring diagrams, I'll send them to you, but do yourself a favour - concentrate on the normal mundane things that happen to Hurricanes ( like r/r's, camchains and tensioners, tuning of carbs, setting valve clearances, and general maintenance) and STAY AWAY from messing with the reg/reg if it's working OK- believe me, you don't know what you're getting into .......I've had 5 r/r's , two stators, and two batteries in the last 3 years......
#3
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
.......I've had 5 r/r's , two stators, and two batteries in the last 3 years......
I would check the charging voltage and try to reduce it if it is very high. In case it is around or above 15 volts, and it takes an incredible charge to pump a battery above 15 volt, I would remove about 1 volt by connecting a high current diode in series with the plus lead that goes from R/R to battery. This would give a more normal charging voltage of about 14 volt, which is far better for the battery and the charging system in itself. Well, just some thoughts and an idea.
Which type of diode would do? I would use a car-diode that handles about 25 amp current. Any well sorted shop for car electrics will have this for like 10 dollars usually looks like this:
[IMG]local://upfiles/4562/0C8D5D5BDE1E46B1A9B91E85DD53DDDF.jpg[/IMG]
What you can do to prolonge the life of the R/R, is to sandpaper the back of the R/R and the frame, to get proper metal-to-metal contact. This will transfer awaythe killing heat in the R/R far better than the stock solution.
#4
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
Many thanks for your comments.
I agree with you entirely, mucking about with electrics is not my thing. However, my R/R is on the blink I think (poet?) - the battery keeps going flat on me and its a new battery which I've had checked. I found a bit of burning around the starter solenoid RED wire. The only reason I was referring to the R1 R/R is because a few of the posts on this site have mentioned that the standard Honda R/R is not very good, and the R1 R/R is a more robust replacement.
I agree with you entirely, mucking about with electrics is not my thing. However, my R/R is on the blink I think (poet?) - the battery keeps going flat on me and its a new battery which I've had checked. I found a bit of burning around the starter solenoid RED wire. The only reason I was referring to the R1 R/R is because a few of the posts on this site have mentioned that the standard Honda R/R is not very good, and the R1 R/R is a more robust replacement.
#5
#6
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
Thanks for the advice R1000 - the problem stemmed from the original reg/rec burning out, and my not knowing what was wrong.....I had burnt the field coils in the stator as well as frying the reg/rec, but every time I fited a new reg/rec (they lasted about 8 months before giving trouble) it would run fine - for a while. Frying the field coils increased the resistance, and this in turn had a knock-on effect to the reg/rec over time.I've now fitted a stator from a 93 CBR1000, and a new reg/rec, so hopefully the problem is a thing of the past.
Ged9, if your r/r is on the blink(you think) he he,,,,check the voltage in the battery with engine off. Should read at least 12.5 volts.Then start the bike and register how much current is being fed into the battery- should be between 13.5 to 15.5 volts....if it isn't your reg/rec's fried......
New one with 12 months guarantee from www.electrex.UK will be around 130 US with postage. They are VERY good...SEE MY PREVIOUS POSTS ON THIS ISSUE.
The starter solenoid red wire--mmmm..............main power cable, overheating.Cause ??
C'mon Guys gimme some help here.......
Keep us posted
Ged9, if your r/r is on the blink(you think) he he,,,,check the voltage in the battery with engine off. Should read at least 12.5 volts.Then start the bike and register how much current is being fed into the battery- should be between 13.5 to 15.5 volts....if it isn't your reg/rec's fried......
New one with 12 months guarantee from www.electrex.UK will be around 130 US with postage. They are VERY good...SEE MY PREVIOUS POSTS ON THIS ISSUE.
The starter solenoid red wire--mmmm..............main power cable, overheating.Cause ??
C'mon Guys gimme some help here.......
Keep us posted
#7
#8
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
Very glad to see how you guys are sorting things out. I have been in the fog on this matter for a while. And to keep things straight:
[ul][*]electrical current is measured in ampere;[*]electrical potential is measured in volt;[*]electrical resistance is measured in ohm[/ul]
[ul][*]electrical current is measured in ampere;[*]electrical potential is measured in volt;[*]electrical resistance is measured in ohm[/ul]
#9
#10
RE: Fit alternate R/R to '97 1000F
OK, OK, TBT, the penny finally dropped.....[:@][:@][:@]
Yeah, good short-order "fry cook" me......he he
NOT HELPFUL.......cheeky fellow....he he
You'l be giving all the new members the wrong impression.......
Let's not even MENTION Cosmobob's "knockers".......
Yeah, good short-order "fry cook" me......he he
NOT HELPFUL.......cheeky fellow....he he
You'l be giving all the new members the wrong impression.......
Let's not even MENTION Cosmobob's "knockers".......