Can anyone help with my ignition switch
#11
05-02-2009, 01:34 AM
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Geesus ., they look like some sort of rivet..
got me buggered
Looks like the remains of a Phillips head in the middle ??
The star shape is the bit yu wanna get at
All else fails , its the bloody "hot axe"
J/k
Getting a right switch sound the right thing though ..
got me buggeredLooks like the remains of a Phillips head in the middle ??
The star shape is the bit yu wanna get at
All else fails , its the bloody "hot axe"
J/kGetting a right switch sound the right thing though ..
Last edited by CBRclassic; 05-02-2009 at 01:50 AM.
#12
05-02-2009, 02:15 AM
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#13
05-02-2009, 03:01 AM
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lol ...Sorry , I could not help myself with that line
May I ask what exactly was wrong with your old one ? in detail
lol
Last edited by CBRclassic; 05-02-2009 at 03:04 AM.
#14
05-02-2009, 04:53 AM
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when i turned the key the ignition light did not always come on so had to turn it on and of a few times to get it to work and now won't work at all. good news if you can call it that is i got speaking to a honda macanic those round like rivets have to be drilled out then you drill and thread the new hole they don't like to make it easy lol
#15
05-02-2009, 04:59 AM
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#16
05-02-2009, 05:38 AM
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I thought they looked like rivets never mind...
Just a thought before you go spending all that cash..
Why don't you get the lock off with a drill then try to undo the rear of the ignition assembly and pull it apart to see if you can clean or get to any of the contacts inside it ..
I have never done this on a CBR , but I have done it quite a while ago on trail bikes with success...
It does look like those star headed screws will give you access to the guts of it....
You will need to hold it upside down and be careful not to let any springs and ball bearing go flying..
The reason I thought having a go would be worth it , was because its dead anyway ...
never mind... Just a thought before you go spending all that cash..
Why don't you get the lock off with a drill
then try to undo the rear of the ignition assembly and pull it apart to see if you can clean or get to any of the contacts inside it ..I have never done this on a CBR , but I have done it quite a while ago on trail bikes with success...
It does look like those star headed screws will give you access to the guts of it....
You will need to hold it upside down and be careful not to let any springs and ball bearing go flying..
The reason I thought having a go would be worth it , was because its dead anyway ...
#17
05-02-2009, 06:37 AM
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#18
05-02-2009, 07:51 AM
#19
05-03-2009, 07:59 AM
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Good luck.
#20
05-03-2009, 11:24 AM
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blind fastners and switch
My 1991 has a torx head bolt like Paco said. Try this. Get a scribe (ice pick) and "dig" at the head of those blind head thingys. They might just have gunk filling in the torx slot. Try digging at that puppy. I believe I can see the outline of the torx head from Steve's expanded view above....
If you can not get the right 3 connector switch, then use the above information to make the 6 position connector switch work.
I will leave that other post Steve for information that may be used by some who want to change their switch to a 6 connector switch. The 6 connector can have auxillary equipment hooked up through it with the key whereas, the 3 position has to have things "cobbed" off of it to make it work for things like a GPS, Iphone power plug in, Butler manned coffee maker, christmas strobe lights for dancing girls, etc
Most (not all) motorcycle mechanics do not understand electrical workings. They just understand "replacement" of exact items. When it comes to using a "universal" part, they fold. Steve's electrical diagram is clear that the 6 position switch would work. It even shows that TL1, TL2 and PA can be used in an auxillary manner.
P.S. How would one put that blind headed bolt/screw in like a rivet? It would not work mechanically. Rivets must go through to mushroom out the other side. If it is threaded, one could not initially put it in with a tool because there would be nothing to put a tool on like a torx slot. Think about it... There is no supernatural engineering going on here, it is just missing the clues that is going on.
I believe I can see the outline of the torx head from Steve's expanded view above....If you can not get the right 3 connector switch, then use the above information to make the 6 position connector switch work.
I will leave that other post Steve for information that may be used by some who want to change their switch to a 6 connector switch. The 6 connector can have auxillary equipment hooked up through it with the key whereas, the 3 position has to have things "cobbed" off of it to make it work for things like a GPS, Iphone power plug in, Butler manned coffee maker, christmas strobe lights for dancing girls, etc
Most (not all) motorcycle mechanics do not understand electrical workings. They just understand "replacement" of exact items. When it comes to using a "universal" part, they fold. Steve's electrical diagram is clear that the 6 position switch would work. It even shows that TL1, TL2 and PA can be used in an auxillary manner.
P.S. How would one put that blind headed bolt/screw in like a rivet? It would not work mechanically. Rivets must go through to mushroom out the other side. If it is threaded, one could not initially put it in with a tool because there would be nothing to put a tool on like a torx slot. Think about it... There is no supernatural engineering going on here, it is just missing the clues that is going on.
Last edited by CBRriderNevada; 05-03-2009 at 12:48 PM.