Well 87 - 96-(which yours is) uses the 3 wire ones.. so your bike has the correct one in it..
I have no knowledge about what must be a later model switch that you bought..(with 6 wires)

I would try to get the right switch I think ? before you go ripping it out ?





The 6 wire ones are only one these models .........
and the H -J models have 6 , but it is slightly different to the K L M N models

All clear as mud now .?? I know its fried my head... lol

 

Looks like the three torx screws are there on the old one. The upper right one is stripped and the bottom right one is under that red wire. The left one is like Paco says, a Torx screw. The new part has 3 phillips head screws instead of torx screws.
The big holes on the new part is what is going to anchor that puppy to the underside of your bulkhead. The old one has one big hole with a blind rivet looking thingy fastening the switch to the bulkhead and I assume the other big hole is under the wire housing (that we can't see) with another blind fastener. I would assume it has a blind rivet looking thingy also. Could be like a stove bolt where there is only one nut to worry about getting a wrench on while the blind end stays put, but I am not familiar with how to take that dude off. Those blind fastners might have a shaft with a clip groove at the other end. check on top for a c-clip.
Should be three connections to your ignition switch. One wire comes from the battery. One goes to the fan motor via a fuse. One goes to your common at your fuse box. So, battery comes in "hot". Turn key on and all the fuses are now hot, which means all your electrics are hot. Also, a separate line goes to your fan motor with its own fuse (seperate because of amp draw from an electric fan motor) and the fan is turned on by the Thermostatic Fan Switch.
Your new ignition switch has 6 connections? Well, it could be made to work. There should be one connection that is marked "common" which would be your battery wire. Turn the switch on and see which two are now connected to the "common" connection. Put the line to the fuse box on one of those two and then put the fan motor wire to the other one. The other connections are not needed. Hope this helps.
P.S. You can test the new ignition switch connections in your hand with an ohm meter. That means NO POWER to the switch, just a switch in your hand. Put the red lead from your meter on the common connection point. Test the other connections by touching them with the black lead. NO connection should show conductivity. If they do, mark them as NO Good. Now turn on the switch and touch the ones that did not show conductivity. At least two should now show conductivity with the common. Use the common and those two connection for your wiring. Common = battery. Other two = fuse box and fan motor.

I see Steve posted the diagram while me fingers were typing what my little voice said to type. Use the Batt 1 for common. Use IGN for fuse box wire and use Fan for your fan motor wire. Should work. Just ignore TL1 TL2 and PA. The LOCK position will connect BAT, FAN, IGN and PA (must be an alarm?) or you could use it for a power source that you want available while the bike is in the locked position.

 

Sure , I agree with yu , the 6 wire could be made to work Joe ...that would go without saying , but mate , wouldn't it just be easier to get the right part ??

 

Yes, I was writing all that stuff and then when I submitted it, yours was there and I did not want to delete it all. You are right, the best way is to get the right part. But with the new part you can now turn your switch into a electron s.ucking device laden monster! Now who does not want to create a monster? Make that puppy glow!!!

 

Chit no Joe (hmm..that rhymed :-) don't delete it mate!!

You put lottssa good clue's in that reply so leave the bugger up mate