Cam chain tensioner
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Joined: Apr 2005
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RE: Cam chain tensioner
Well I'm going to pull the cover to inspect and adjust the valves, so I might as well pull the tensioner and check it per the manual. So if it's bad, I'll just have to replace it with another stock one.
Thanks
Thanks
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Roseville, CA
RE: Cam chain tensioner
You guys were right, after some investigation and parts research the manual camchain tensioner that I mentioned WILL NOT work. When I called the guys at APE they said it was the same, so that is where I got the info (which was wrong)..and the stock piece is VERY PRICEY!!!!!!!!!!!!! I called the Honda dealer and it is $211!! but if you guys want one I am willing to sell it for only $128. I have a dealer that I work with when ordering O.E.M. parts and since I am the one that mis-quoted the info I am willing to work a deal for the confusion I caused. I try to always post reliable info, and this time it was wrong..sorry.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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RE: Cam chain tensioner
Update:
Unless someone else knows an easier way to do it, I don't feel like removing the cams just to get the tensioner out to test it. So I've decided to just run the cam chain tensioner for a while and see if it's just the normal noise I'm hearing. I finally got the valves all adjusted Monday evening, after having to make a short standard screwdriver to use with the Honda lock nut wrench. A couple were out of adjustment. I still need to clean the carbs, and fix the over heating problem. I can hopefully have it on the road in a week or so.
Thanks for the help.
Unless someone else knows an easier way to do it, I don't feel like removing the cams just to get the tensioner out to test it. So I've decided to just run the cam chain tensioner for a while and see if it's just the normal noise I'm hearing. I finally got the valves all adjusted Monday evening, after having to make a short standard screwdriver to use with the Honda lock nut wrench. A couple were out of adjustment. I still need to clean the carbs, and fix the over heating problem. I can hopefully have it on the road in a week or so.
Thanks for the help.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,401
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From: Roseville, CA
RE: Cam chain tensioner
Well I am about to ship this HONDA CCT set I just recieved and I decided to look in the box ( it was a bigger box than I expected) and the set includes a few more pieces than just the tensioner....It has #3, #7, and a gasket that goes on the tensioner...(NOT SHOWN)
[IMG]local://upfiles/17/0A4952865A5C4184B6443F96D608CC38.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/17/0A4952865A5C4184B6443F96D608CC38.jpg[/IMG]
There is no manual tensioner for the cbr1000f. Comparisons to the cbr600f tensioner are incorrect as the 600 has its tensioner outside on the back of the cylinders and the 1000's tensioner is located under the inlet cam inside the engine so you have to remove the cam cover and inlet cam to get at it. But as firefox said these motors always rattle from cold and should be warmed up slowly and not trashed for the first 10 miles or so. All the 1000's i've had have all rattled and everyone else i've talked to say the same but i've never heard of a single failure yet and i've seen bikes with over 70k miles on the clock. Just make sure you change the oil and filter every 2k miles or the tensioner can stick as deposits build up in the tensioner body.
Mark.
Mark.
Redcoat, & Maxwell's Silver Hammer, MVN and curmudgeon
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Mud hut, Zululand
Unless someone else knows an easier way to do it, I don't feel like removing the cams just to get the tensioner out to test it.
There is no other way to pull the tensioner as far as I know (and I've done my chain 3 times) Rear cam has to be unseated to reduce tension and allow movement of tensioner to remove it. I'd suggest leave it alone until the noise is really bad, then change it or fit HenryM's amazing tensioner modification and all will be well forever !
There is no other way to pull the tensioner as far as I know (and I've done my chain 3 times) Rear cam has to be unseated to reduce tension and allow movement of tensioner to remove it. I'd suggest leave it alone until the noise is really bad, then change it or fit HenryM's amazing tensioner modification and all will be well forever !
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 320
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From: Surbiton, Surrey, UK
My camchain has been horrendously rattly of late. All the time. If I switch the engine off and trun it back on again, say at the traffic lights, it quitens down. For ten seconds.
So once again I have tried 20W50 oil. Fuchs Silkolene. And once again, it's got a lot quieter. On the way home from work tonight, there was a five-second period when I'm sure there was NO rattle at all! I got all emotional...
However, I'm sure it won't last for long, and even though the rattle is not as bad as before, it's there all the time. Looks like I'm gonna have to do something more drastic sooner rather than later.
Also wondering, any chance of the camchain wearing through the engine casing if it's really slack?
I
So once again I have tried 20W50 oil. Fuchs Silkolene. And once again, it's got a lot quieter. On the way home from work tonight, there was a five-second period when I'm sure there was NO rattle at all! I got all emotional...
However, I'm sure it won't last for long, and even though the rattle is not as bad as before, it's there all the time. Looks like I'm gonna have to do something more drastic sooner rather than later.
Also wondering, any chance of the camchain wearing through the engine casing if it's really slack?
I
Also wondering, any chance of the camchain wearing through the engine casing if it's really slack?
I don't about the cases, but that upper guide has to be taking some abuse. I'd replace that as well.
My question, like final drive chains, should we be thinking about replacing the cam chain sprockets too?
I don't about the cases, but that upper guide has to be taking some abuse. I'd replace that as well.
My question, like final drive chains, should we be thinking about replacing the cam chain sprockets too?
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