Blues bent & buckled bike
#21
http://www.ehow.com/how_2062197_spra...-like-pro.html
My old XJ900 done in my garage on a really hot day with doors closed..............
My old XJ900 done in my garage on a really hot day with doors closed..............
Last edited by Shadow; 08-10-2009 at 11:06 AM.
#22
Well like Bazman sez build up your coats of paint and be in motion
with the can or gun when you come in over the fairing.......s'way
my bro in law taught me to do it and he's in the biz........but om
still a rookie at it though.........it's quite the art form
with the can or gun when you come in over the fairing.......s'way
my bro in law taught me to do it and he's in the biz........but om
still a rookie at it though.........it's quite the art form
Light coats, and make sure you let the coats flash. If you go at it too early between coats, it'll look like hell. Let them flash for 20mins or so. Also, like sprock said, have the gun moving when you're on the piece or you'll splatter on it. Also don't want to be too close or it'll run, but too far away and it will orange peel. It's a son of a bitch, really, but it will be ok..... lol...
Are you using a gun or a can? Base/clear or single stage?
I'm just curious. I'm painting my car at the moment....
BTW, that XJ looks good, shadow...
#23
Yer right on the money Trout........really it depends on what he uses a can or a gun,
the volume the pressure and speed of the hand determines how far back you shoot from.
A can and you'll be at the 8 to 10 inch range and moving at a good clip.
A gun further back 10 to 14 (depending how she's setup) and moving very steady
at a medium clip..........(that been said there's good guns and crap ones too)
the volume the pressure and speed of the hand determines how far back you shoot from.
A can and you'll be at the 8 to 10 inch range and moving at a good clip.
A gun further back 10 to 14 (depending how she's setup) and moving very steady
at a medium clip..........(that been said there's good guns and crap ones too)
#24
Thanks for the good advice. Nice little article too Pete. Been looking for a simple one. I'm using a two color urethane paint. i.e. Base coat & top coat. I read the directions last night & it turns out that my supplier didn't give me any catylist so I'll have to get some. Also want to get some silicone drops, clear coat, thinners etc. The gear I have borrowed uses a suction gun. I'll practice first on some scrap & then I'll do the belly pan first before proceeding to the more visable parts. Fitted up the fairing also last night. Found two tabs I need to extend or they will crack off. not a biggie. My mirrors still look crap but I have all the time in the world to sort something out there. Nearly took her to work today But probably a better idea to leave her home.
#25
Here's an update. I have now taken my bike to work for the last two days. I'm glad I did before I painted her. My worst fears were realised. The Plastex Does NOT cope with heat. Interesting though some of it did & some of it didn't. It appears to have streatched & distorted & left the join hollow. There is no way I'll use it again for this type of repair but away from the engine heat probably ok. Glad I didn't paint the pearl white.
#26
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post