F4i swingarm on F3 - how I did it.
#1
F4i swingarm on F3 - how I did it.
a simple hot-two on fitting an CBR600 F4i 99-03 swingarm on your 1995-1998 F3</strong>
Its not quite finninhed yet though, but will update it shortly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swingarm was 40US dollars plus shipping, which was a total of 60 dollars.
The switch of swing arm requires a Little (very Little) aluminium welding, but usually its easy to find someone that can do it,
Not as much hassle as i had read on the net, a few hours total. but still need the correct bearings & weld a 2mm steel plate on the inside of the linkage to prevent the new bearings from coming loose.
12mm cut off the wide sida & 8mm cut off the narrow side of the front of thew F4i Swingarm - Non of the old bearings fit, so you need to order new ones that do.
Right side does not rub at all. Left side of swingarm need a little dent in it, will heat it with a heatgun for a long time, then use the BIG hammer...
The welded pipe in the middle needs to be cut off.
Done:
just missing the bearings now + new Stainless steel bolts all around
I found out thet the stock F3 "dogbone" (is what we call it in Sweden) if cut in three pieces,
vill fit as the new F4i swingarm bearing/bushings.
And as i have a lowering-kit i simply took that "dogbone".
Picture here shows stock F3 swingarm-axle fitted in the "dogbone". 17mm size
Pull out the guideingpins & remove dustseals and the inner bearings:
(i heated the metal for 5 minutes with a heatgun & then tapped the bearings out easily)
Then cut the "dogbone" into three pieces:
After cuting them, simply grint them down a Little so they will fit two front holes in
the F4i swingarm, I grinded them just a Little to much, but because the parts already
have the correct size 75% around it dont matter if you take a Little much of.
Here you can se how much too much i took of by mistake, also, the new parts will be
just a little too small, but when fitting them later on I will show how you do it properly.
Its not quite finninhed yet though, but will update it shortly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swingarm was 40US dollars plus shipping, which was a total of 60 dollars.
The switch of swing arm requires a Little (very Little) aluminium welding, but usually its easy to find someone that can do it,
Not as much hassle as i had read on the net, a few hours total. but still need the correct bearings & weld a 2mm steel plate on the inside of the linkage to prevent the new bearings from coming loose.
12mm cut off the wide sida & 8mm cut off the narrow side of the front of thew F4i Swingarm - Non of the old bearings fit, so you need to order new ones that do.
Right side does not rub at all. Left side of swingarm need a little dent in it, will heat it with a heatgun for a long time, then use the BIG hammer...
The welded pipe in the middle needs to be cut off.
Done:
just missing the bearings now + new Stainless steel bolts all around
I found out thet the stock F3 "dogbone" (is what we call it in Sweden) if cut in three pieces,
vill fit as the new F4i swingarm bearing/bushings.
And as i have a lowering-kit i simply took that "dogbone".
Picture here shows stock F3 swingarm-axle fitted in the "dogbone". 17mm size
Pull out the guideingpins & remove dustseals and the inner bearings:
(i heated the metal for 5 minutes with a heatgun & then tapped the bearings out easily)
Then cut the "dogbone" into three pieces:
After cuting them, simply grint them down a Little so they will fit two front holes in
the F4i swingarm, I grinded them just a Little to much, but because the parts already
have the correct size 75% around it dont matter if you take a Little much of.
Here you can se how much too much i took of by mistake, also, the new parts will be
just a little too small, but when fitting them later on I will show how you do it properly.
#2
a simple hot-two on fitting an CBR600 F4i 99-03 swingarm on your 1995-1998 F3</strong>
Its not quite finninhed yet though, but will update it shortly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swingarm was 40US dollars plus shipping, which was a total of 60 dollars.
The switch of swing arm requires a Little (very Little) aluminium welding, but usually its easy to find someone that can do it,
Not as much hassle as i had read on the net, a few hours total. but still need the correct bearings & weld a 2mm steel plate on the inside of the linkage to prevent the new bearings from coming loose.
12mm cut off the wide sida & 8mm cut off the narrow side of the front of thew F4i Swingarm - Non of the old bearings fit, so you need to order new ones that do.
Right side does not rub at all. Left side of swingarm need a little dent in it, will heat it with a heatgun for a long time, then use the BIG hammer...
The welded pipe in the middle needs to be cut off.
Done:
just missing the bearings now + new Stainless steel bolts all around
I found out thet the stock F3 "dogbone" (is what we call it in Sweden) if cut in three pieces,
vill fit as the new F4i swingarm bearing/bushings.
And as i have a lowering-kit i simply took that "dogbone".
Picture here shows stock F3 swingarm-axle fitted in the "dogbone". 17mm size
Pull out the guideingpins & remove dustseals and the inner bearings:
(i heated the metal for 5 minutes with a heatgun & then tapped the bearings out easily)
Then cut the "dogbone" into three pieces:
After cuting them, simply grint them down a Little so they will fit two front holes in
the F4i swingarm, I grinded them just a Little to much, but because the parts already
have the correct size 75% around it dont matter if you take a Little much of.
Here you can se how much too much i took of by mistake, also, the new parts will be
just a little too small, but when fitting them later on I will show how you do it properly.
Its not quite finninhed yet though, but will update it shortly.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Swingarm was 40US dollars plus shipping, which was a total of 60 dollars.
The switch of swing arm requires a Little (very Little) aluminium welding, but usually its easy to find someone that can do it,
Not as much hassle as i had read on the net, a few hours total. but still need the correct bearings & weld a 2mm steel plate on the inside of the linkage to prevent the new bearings from coming loose.
12mm cut off the wide sida & 8mm cut off the narrow side of the front of thew F4i Swingarm - Non of the old bearings fit, so you need to order new ones that do.
Right side does not rub at all. Left side of swingarm need a little dent in it, will heat it with a heatgun for a long time, then use the BIG hammer...
The welded pipe in the middle needs to be cut off.
Done:
just missing the bearings now + new Stainless steel bolts all around
I found out thet the stock F3 "dogbone" (is what we call it in Sweden) if cut in three pieces,
vill fit as the new F4i swingarm bearing/bushings.
And as i have a lowering-kit i simply took that "dogbone".
Picture here shows stock F3 swingarm-axle fitted in the "dogbone". 17mm size
Pull out the guideingpins & remove dustseals and the inner bearings:
(i heated the metal for 5 minutes with a heatgun & then tapped the bearings out easily)
Then cut the "dogbone" into three pieces:
After cuting them, simply grint them down a Little so they will fit two front holes in
the F4i swingarm, I grinded them just a Little to much, but because the parts already
have the correct size 75% around it dont matter if you take a Little much of.
Here you can se how much too much i took of by mistake, also, the new parts will be
just a little too small, but when fitting them later on I will show how you do it properly.
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