1 carb per cylinder, but the unit is all attached. You will be taking off a long block of 4 carbs.

 

The link I posted at the top of the write up sends you to factory pros website with good tuning directions. Tuning basics are all in that link. If anyone still needs help after reading that tuning guide then feel free to ask.

 

i also pull the jet holders and the pilot screws and kill em with carb cleaner and compressed air.

 

First of all, thank you very much for taking the time to write this up.

When I get my carbs off and expose the bowls, do I HAVE to remove the jets in order to clean them effectively or can I spray some carb cleaner down there and be alright? I don't want to mess with my settings because I doubt I would have the know how to tune it effectively. But judging from how damn hard it is to remove the carb from the boots I have a feeling it is going to be reeeaally dirty in there.

Thanks

 

Jets are just tubes. Different sized tubes allow less or more fuel to travel leaning or enriching the mixture. Those tubes just screw right in and out. There is nothing to do but to screw them back in (snug, not super tight) I recommend pulling them out just so you can hold it up to the light to make sure you can see through it and that it is clean.

The only adjustment you could screw up on the carbs is to adjust the D shaped pilot screws by the bowls on the outside of the carbs, or switch a clip position on an aftermarket needle.

 

Yeah, now I see what you're talking about. It took a good 2 hours to remove my carbs. I am just about to put everything back together and see how it goes. I have two main concerns though.

I don't really know where to spray carb cleaner and I am a little afraid of ruining some rubber or something somehow. I took out the jets and cleaned them with it and compressed air, they looked good. Then I sprayed just a little bit of carb cleaner down the jet holes and the floater piston thing after I removed it. I sprayed compressed air down each hole. I took a look at the other side and it was spotless. I am pretty sure my bikes been driven consistently for a while so I let it go for now. But does this sound about right with the carb cleaner?

Also when you adjust the D shaped pilot screws, do you have to adjust them all the same amount at the same time? How much control over the power range does the pilot screw have in comparison to the main jets inside

Thanks very much for your help. I wouldn't have tried this without such a good post.

 

You can hit anything you want with carb cleaner other than rubber. Even then, I never had a problem with using carb cleaner on a rag and swiping it over gaskets just for a quick clean, I think the main problems arise when the rubber or plastic parts stay soaked in the cleaner. The rubber sucks up the carb cleaner and swells. If you wipe it off, the small amounts left over will evaporate.

I failed to mention that the tip of the float needle is rubber, so I don't advise squirting carb cleaner in there and letting it sit. Just make sure you get some air in there to clear out the carb cleaner. It is not a bad idea to take the floats apart and pull out the needle so that you can clean it more thoroughly. The nice thing is that you get it done right and know they are clean, then you just need to make sure to store your bike for the winter with fuel stabilizer and you will probably never have to clean your carbs again. I did mine just a few months ago for the first time in 3 years and it probably was a waste of my time. :P

 

Oh and about the pilot screws, they effect idle and pretty much just initial throttle roll on. Jet needle effects mid range power, main jets effect upper rpm power. Technically, jets don't effect power, they effect air/fuel ratio. In a way I suppose it effects power because if you mess up the ratio, you will lose power.

You would need to adjust them equally. If nothing it wrong with your idle or roll on, then I wouldn't mess with them.

 

Again, thank you so much. Ive been wanting to learn how to do this for a while.

So I took my time putting everything back together and it started right up. Man it felt so much better. The throttle felt more stiff and responsive, I am downgearing to lower gears than I usually would into the same corners, and there is no more stutter at all. The bike feels much improved.

Im pretty sure I did it all correctly from your instructions. I sprayed carb cleaner in all the jet holes and then compressed air, I tried to make sure there was no more when I put the float needles back on. I just wasnt sure what was inside those holes (possibly rubber). I drove it sort of shortly after, so would that burn it up or flush it out I assume?

Ok, that helps. I have no frame of reference as for power except for one ride on an 05 cbr 600 a few years ago so I don't know if it needs any sort of tuning. It sort of felt like it might have been losing a little power as it warmed up. I will leave it how it is for now because I think it feels pretty damn good.

Oddly enough after all of this, I discovered a slow leak in my rear on the air stem. Those arent very expensive to replace are they?

Thanks

 

I'm getting ready to attempt to clean my carbs. Wish me luck!