The key to a smooth shift is "rev matching", whether shifting up OR down. Theoreticcly (nice spelling) a motorcycle dont even need a clutch except for taking off from a dead stop. The transmission and clutch isnt like a car. I never got into clutchless shifting, it wasnt the way I was taught so I always use the clutch. It just seems unnatural not to use it, even though I've read different.

 

Loading the lever can result in bent forks. It's best done simultaneously.

 

Try it ull like it! Just keep the rpms up

 

I've been thinking more about this. I'm assuming that a motorcycle trans is similar to an automotive trans, meaning that there are synchro rings in it. Is this a correct assumption? If so, shifting clutchless could wear the synchros out prematurely. Unless a rider is able to match internal component RPM's nearly perfectly before shifting, synchro rings will wear out.

Now that it's colder, I notice my trans is balking even more. It sometimes doesn't want to upshift into 2nd, and at times it's actually come out of second a few times on it's own. I'm thinking there are some internal issues. Does anyone know if there are trans rebuild kits available? Or, is there a known issue that might be causing this?

 

Bent shift fork, or bent forks, i do not know of a rebuilt trans kit, tear down, replace damaged parts.

 

This guy doesn't have the showmanship to make his YouTube a sensation but he explains very well how a motorcycle transmission really works and dispels a few myths.

 

The other day I'm coming home from work, and I'm really having a time with the gear shift lever. 2 blocks from the house I can't get it out of neutral. I finally get in gear and get it home. I put the kick stand down and notice that it is really loose. I stand the bike up again and put pressure on the kick stand with my foot. Sure enough, it is really loose. I carefully lean it on it's stand, open my garage up and bring it in. I put it on my wheel stand and see that the kick stand bolts have loosened and backed out A LOT. So I get my work clothes on and start investigating. The bolts had backed out and were so loose that the kick stand assy was basically dangling. While down there, I took the shifter off and disassembled it. I cleaned the metal bushing inside the foot lever; it was corroded and whatever lube was in there had gummed up into a sticky mess. I also cleaned off the seals and treated them with a rubber lubricant. Put it all together and rotated the arm on the splined shaft assy one tooth CW so that the shift level position moved down just slightly. I've been wanting to do that for some time. The modified position is much more comfortable and effective for my ankle geometry. The clean up and lube, the new position, and tightening made a big difference. There is still a bit too much clearance from wear to my liking, but it has made shifting sooo much better.

 

Good result!

I need to take a look at the shift mechanism on my fireblade, 1-3 is a nice positive change, but 4-6 is a bit 'wooly'.

Anyway, glad you managed to improve things