My question is one that has been ask but the poor kid was shot down and his question didn't even get answered because people were trying to make their ***** feel bigger.What's the best size sprockets (front/back) to run to committ to slow stunting. [/align][/align]I AM NOT NEWAT THIS. I can stand it up at almost any rev in the first three gears (power and clutch). I stoppie starting at 40 mph and ride it till it comes to a stand still. I have high chairs, leg overs, nac wheelies, and nose grabs. Now that you have my resume, here's what I want to do. [/align][/align]I want to slow everything way down and start in on circle wheelies and keep everything at a crawl. I know this involves the brakes, not what I'm asking. Just need to know teeth count front and back. [/align][/align]PS: I currently run 48 tooth on the rear and stock on the front. Where do I go from here? Thanks[/align]

 

Hmm well I know nothing about this. got my bike 6 months ago.. the bigger sprocket you have the easier it is to wheelie?

 

Uhoh...

 

^haha
ok man, u dont need a bigger sprocket to to slow wheelies. OMR does fig 8's on stock gearin and everyone should learn BP on stock gearing, its smoother easier, less twitchy, you wont loop as easy.
i have a 954 with a +10 rear and it is good for me, at first i thought it was too much since the bike is a monster on ist own, but its good now
get whatever u feel comfortable with.....

 

What kind of bike do you have? Leave it in 1st, clutch it to B.P and learn good throttle control. Turn ur idle way up also-That REALLY helps. Your geared fine, i'm sure. U got a 12 bar?

 

CBR F4. 12'clock BAR included. Caged.

I understand that stunts can be done with stock sproks. However, you look at Jason Britton's bike and you see a ferris wheel on the back tire.

Guys I was really just hoping to hear what everyone was running. I appreciate your advice really, and I totally agree, but I'm just looking for teeth info here. If I wanted to know how to do a stunt then I would ask "how do I do a wheelie?" I am trying to find out what is a nice balance for different bikes and different riders and styles etc...

Can anyone tell me what the equation is for the front sprocket. I know one down in the front equals so many up in the rear. How does this work???

 

Edited

 

 

SixShooter989

Thanks bro. That's exactly the kind of stuff I needto know. Any idea about the 1 down in the front equals so many in the rear thing?

Also, how much is too low to go in the front before I should just go up in the rear. You were talking about the chain hitting the swingarm. About how many down is too many up front???

Thanks again!

 

Hey man, I'm running a 929 -1 / +5. But in first, mine won't go slower than about 9mph... still to fast for the good slow stuff. I'm still working on idle, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

Roughly going down 1 tooth in the front is equal to going up 3 in the back. From stock you don't want to go down more than 2. 1 will generally suffice, and from where you are with your +5, you will notice the difference definately... but will probably not drop you to the slow crawl that you want. I'm looking at going +17 (60 tooth) on the back for slow stuff. So same as the other guy, basically with the -1 / +17 it's a 20 tooth difference.

Keep in mind you may be trucking your bike to the spot if you go down a ton... with my setup, I'm at about 6.5k rpm to go the speed limit on the highway. My top is about 140 at the limiter in 6th. If you go with a huge rear sprocket, you'll find that you're going to be very high revs in 6th to be at highway speeds. Just an FYI there. I ride with some stunters that can only use the side roads to get around town, and avoid the highway because of their gearing.

And +1 to changing your chain and BOTH sprockets at the same time. I've killed a new $90 sprocket in a week by not changing my chain. (And by killed, I mean every tooth bent, minus the 20 some odd teeth that simply snapped off... and by a "week" I mean 7 days.) Lesson learned!

Hope my babbling helps.

- Pixel -