Street Skills Information to keep you from rashing your bike or yourself. Safe riding techniques only please.

Im getting frustrated...

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #11  
chuckbear's Avatar
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Originally Posted by pittsm
Just had this thought and figured I'd ask. When you stop at a sign are you putting it in neutral? If so when you take back off to put it in gear you are pushing down on the shifter into 1st right? Not pulling up into 2nd and thinking your in first? This would explain the hard take-offs. I have seen someone do this before because they were used to driving a four wheeler that didn't use a clutch and this is how they work.

Remember neutral is in between 1st and 2nd.
Wow that's a great point... I bet OP is clicking up trying to roll from 2nd....
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 03:13 PM
  #12  
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+1 to the MSF.

If you haven't taken it, you really should. Imo, new riders have no place on the road without that course. It's for your safety and you get a lot out of it.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #13  
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i figured out my problem... kuroshio suggested that i adjust my idle and i did and now im not having those problems starting from a stop. i just need to start practicing and getting used to the bike so it will become a little more smoother. thanx u guys
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:48 PM
  #14  
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most bikes have a "wet" clutch...don't be afraid to let it slip some. wet clutches aren't like dry clutches in a car...they allow you to slip them without destroying them after a dozen slipped launches.

again +1 on the MSF course. i highly recommend it...even for experienced riders.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Xander F4i
wet clutches aren't like dry clutches in a car...they allow you to slip them without destroying them after a dozen slipped launches.
i dont know what "wet" or "dry" clutches are. sorry i drive an automatic and the only stick ive ever driven was my friends audi tt (he was teaching me how to drive stick). so could someone please define?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
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No worries. In a car the manual clutch has a couple of plates that are pressed together when you let off the clutch pedal. These plates spin against each other until they lock up and the transmission spins the output shaft and the car goes. In a car the clutch plates are dry, meaning that there's no fluid in the clutch. They work solely on friction.

On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky
No worries. In a car the manual clutch has a couple of plates that are pressed together when you let off the clutch pedal. These plates spin against each other until they lock up and the transmission spins the output shaft and the car goes. In a car the clutch plates are dry, meaning that there's no fluid in the clutch. They work solely on friction.

On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
And what that means for you, biker_Angel13, is that you shouldn't be afraid to give it some gas... say 2 or 3k rpm... from a stop to make takeoffs easier.

While that kind of thing will wear on a "dry" clutch in a car, the "wet" clutches on our bikes really aren't phased by it.

That's what I meant in the other thread by not being afraid to give it a little gas on the takeoff. I'll rev to 2 or 3k rpm to slip the clutch on most slow takeoffs and on top of the idle adjustment you made should really help your stalling problem. Just be careful and practice a lot to get a feel for your throttle response as it requires some careful clutch control also.

Like I said before, just keep practicing. These are all skills that come with putting in plenty of seat time.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:14 PM
  #18  
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Sorry for diggin up an old one, your probably up and rolling great now but a good way of playing with it is sitting on the bike as flat footed as you can, roll the bike back so your on your heels then roll into your throttle and out on your clutch and let it pull you flat footed, you can do it over and over again in your driveway or garage, i generally do it a few times when i get back on the 900 since the clutch on that is completely different then on my suzuki.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #19  
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practice, practice, practice, and if you havent taken the MSF yet, I would recommend it
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #20  
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practice, practice, practice, and if you havent taken the MSF yet, I would recommend it
Yep, it's all about practice. If your idle was already in spec, you probably didn't need to change it. It's all about clutch control with the right rpm. It will come natural to the point where you don't even really think about it, even on steep hills. Don't be afraid to give it fuel, just feel the clutch out.
 
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