Im getting frustrated...
#11
Just had this thought and figured I'd ask. When you stop at a sign are you putting it in neutral? If so when you take back off to put it in gear you are pushing down on the shifter into 1st right? Not pulling up into 2nd and thinking your in first? This would explain the hard take-offs. I have seen someone do this before because they were used to driving a four wheeler that didn't use a clutch and this is how they work.
Remember neutral is in between 1st and 2nd.
Remember neutral is in between 1st and 2nd.
#12
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#15
i dont know what "wet" or "dry" clutches are. sorry i drive an automatic and the only stick ive ever driven was my friends audi tt (he was teaching me how to drive stick). so could someone please define?
#16
No worries. In a car the manual clutch has a couple of plates that are pressed together when you let off the clutch pedal. These plates spin against each other until they lock up and the transmission spins the output shaft and the car goes. In a car the clutch plates are dry, meaning that there's no fluid in the clutch. They work solely on friction.
On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
#17
No worries. In a car the manual clutch has a couple of plates that are pressed together when you let off the clutch pedal. These plates spin against each other until they lock up and the transmission spins the output shaft and the car goes. In a car the clutch plates are dry, meaning that there's no fluid in the clutch. They work solely on friction.
On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
On most bikes, ours included, is a wet clutch. The clutch is bathed in the motor oil. So is all the transmission parts. That's why keeping the oil changed and he level checked is so important, it lubricates more than just the motor.
While that kind of thing will wear on a "dry" clutch in a car, the "wet" clutches on our bikes really aren't phased by it.
That's what I meant in the other thread by not being afraid to give it a little gas on the takeoff. I'll rev to 2 or 3k rpm to slip the clutch on most slow takeoffs and on top of the idle adjustment you made should really help your stalling problem. Just be careful and practice a lot to get a feel for your throttle response as it requires some careful clutch control also.
Like I said before, just keep practicing. These are all skills that come with putting in plenty of seat time.
#18
Sorry for diggin up an old one, your probably up and rolling great now but a good way of playing with it is sitting on the bike as flat footed as you can, roll the bike back so your on your heels then roll into your throttle and out on your clutch and let it pull you flat footed, you can do it over and over again in your driveway or garage, i generally do it a few times when i get back on the 900 since the clutch on that is completely different then on my suzuki.
#20
practice, practice, practice, and if you havent taken the MSF yet, I would recommend it
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