Hunting Uncle Ho, The 'Bears Vietnam Journey
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Day 15 Ha Noi to Ninh Binh ~ 100km
On the road again -
Just can't wait to get on the road again.
The life I love is making music with my friends
And I can't wait to get on the road again.
On the road again
Goin' places that I've never been.
Seein' things that I may never see again
And I can't wait to get on the road again.
On the road again -
Like a band of gypsies we go down the highway
We're the best of friends.
Insisting that the world keep turning our way
And our way
is on the road again.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.
The life I love is makin' music with my friends
Willie Nelson
It was goodbye to Jay and Susie who fly back to Australia today and Mrs SB and I were heading south for Hue and probably further south again depending on time.
A Mum and her little boy!
ATGATT in about 1000 degree heat, 'Bear and Mrs SB setting off. You just cannot kiss in helmets!
The destination was a staging run, mainly to escape Ha Noi and its hubbub, but also for good place to start a run to see the Phat Diem stone cathedral tomorrow. So it was Highway 1 south.
Don't for one minute think that Highway 1 - although the main north-south road in Vietnam - would be in good condition, it's not. Some parts are great, others unsealed with about 1 km of trucks inching and bouncing their way through clouds of choking dust. We were filthy and coughing up mud after a few kilometres of the traffic. About 30 km out of Ha Noi, the traffic did thin out and some good stretches of road happened.
Some of the small villages, dry the rice harvest on the road.
We were riding into the Red River Delta area where we were surrounded by limestone Sugarloaf mountains, with some large rivers snaking their way past the rocks.
This was a reasonably large river with just beautiful scenery
Limestone, sugarloaf mountains abound
Fishermen, drifting downriver, laying out nets
And barges, overloaded with rocks with the gunwales awash!
We stopped just outside of Ninh Binh for lunch at about 1 PM and had a fantastic Pho and rice and lots of other food
then located out hotel after a search lasting half hour or so. Great hotel overlooking one of the sugarloaf mountains.
Part of the mountain opposite our hotel.
We kicked back in the afternoon and researched the Phat Diem cathedral for tomorrow, then when dark set off to forage for food.
The beauty of Vietnam is, that generally you can find a myriad of shops or corner cafe's that serve all types of food. This being a large, heavy industy based town and the fact that our hotel was a reasonable distance from the main drag, meant we had to look a little harder.
Still servicing bikes in the dark
We ended up finding a little shop with about half a dozen large pots on a table out front, from them we got 4 very large spring rolls and some dipping sauce, from another we got half a spit roasted duck cut up and some garlic/chilli dipping sauce and salad, from another some ice tea and onion chips. Sitting on our 5th floor balcony, enjoying this food, we thought of you all back home
No, really we did!
After the day on Highway 1, I thought I'd list Vietnamese road rules as I have observed them:
1.
2.
3.
4.
etc.
And there you have it, clear, decisive road rules for Vietnam, do what you want, how you want, when you want, even if it appears to others as the most stupid thing you could possibly do. Don't look, don't think, stop where and when you want and toot your horn loud and often at everything.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears (who really reek of garlic)
On the road again -
Just can't wait to get on the road again.
The life I love is making music with my friends
And I can't wait to get on the road again.
On the road again
Goin' places that I've never been.
Seein' things that I may never see again
And I can't wait to get on the road again.
On the road again -
Like a band of gypsies we go down the highway
We're the best of friends.
Insisting that the world keep turning our way
And our way
is on the road again.
Just can't wait to get on the road again.
The life I love is makin' music with my friends
Willie Nelson
It was goodbye to Jay and Susie who fly back to Australia today and Mrs SB and I were heading south for Hue and probably further south again depending on time.
A Mum and her little boy!
ATGATT in about 1000 degree heat, 'Bear and Mrs SB setting off. You just cannot kiss in helmets!
The destination was a staging run, mainly to escape Ha Noi and its hubbub, but also for good place to start a run to see the Phat Diem stone cathedral tomorrow. So it was Highway 1 south.
Don't for one minute think that Highway 1 - although the main north-south road in Vietnam - would be in good condition, it's not. Some parts are great, others unsealed with about 1 km of trucks inching and bouncing their way through clouds of choking dust. We were filthy and coughing up mud after a few kilometres of the traffic. About 30 km out of Ha Noi, the traffic did thin out and some good stretches of road happened.
Some of the small villages, dry the rice harvest on the road.
We were riding into the Red River Delta area where we were surrounded by limestone Sugarloaf mountains, with some large rivers snaking their way past the rocks.
This was a reasonably large river with just beautiful scenery
Limestone, sugarloaf mountains abound
Fishermen, drifting downriver, laying out nets
And barges, overloaded with rocks with the gunwales awash!
We stopped just outside of Ninh Binh for lunch at about 1 PM and had a fantastic Pho and rice and lots of other food
then located out hotel after a search lasting half hour or so. Great hotel overlooking one of the sugarloaf mountains.Part of the mountain opposite our hotel.
We kicked back in the afternoon and researched the Phat Diem cathedral for tomorrow, then when dark set off to forage for food.
The beauty of Vietnam is, that generally you can find a myriad of shops or corner cafe's that serve all types of food. This being a large, heavy industy based town and the fact that our hotel was a reasonable distance from the main drag, meant we had to look a little harder.
Still servicing bikes in the dark
We ended up finding a little shop with about half a dozen large pots on a table out front, from them we got 4 very large spring rolls and some dipping sauce, from another we got half a spit roasted duck cut up and some garlic/chilli dipping sauce and salad, from another some ice tea and onion chips. Sitting on our 5th floor balcony, enjoying this food, we thought of you all back home
No, really we did!
After the day on Highway 1, I thought I'd list Vietnamese road rules as I have observed them:
1.
2.
3.
4.
etc.
And there you have it, clear, decisive road rules for Vietnam, do what you want, how you want, when you want, even if it appears to others as the most stupid thing you could possibly do. Don't look, don't think, stop where and when you want and toot your horn loud and often at everything.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears (who really reek of garlic)
Last edited by Sebastionbear1; Oct 23, 2012 at 08:15 AM.
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I forgot to mention a significant addition to my bike today. After we fuelled up in the morning, and with the heavy traffic on Highway 1, I got a little tired of turing around to see if Mrs SB was still behind me, so when I came across a shop selling bike spare parts in one of the towns, I lashed out.............
$5 AUD for a set of mirrors for the bike.
Happy now I am
Cheers, SB
$5 AUD for a set of mirrors for the bike.
Happy now I am
Cheers, SB
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Day 16. Nimh Binh to Vinh via Phat Diem Stone Cathedral ~ 230 km
We rose early and packed, went down for breakfast and were away by 8 AM for Phat Diem Cathedral. Nimh Binh, the heavy industry town we stayed at last night is known as the start of the Ho Chi Minh highway - used to ferry Communist war materiel south during the Vietnam war - and the town we finish up in tonight (Vinh) is the birthplace of Ho Chi Minh.
But the first 30 kms to Phat Diem Cathedral eventually took us a total of 90 km off highway A1 which was a respite from the madness we were looking forward to.
Phat Diem Cathedral was built between 1875 and 1899 with four roofs and six sets of iron & wood pillars and consists of a network of ponds, lakes, churches, and artificial caves (grottos). On both sides of the church are four smaller churches of different styles. Phuong Dinh Church, part of the Phat Diem complex, is a giant building entirely made of stone. Numerous stone sculptures are on the inside and outside walls. A large bell cast in the 1890s weighing nearly 2 tons is found in the bell tower.
The Bell Tower with a statue of St Peter.
The Stone Cathedral
Inside the Cathedral was sublimely beautiful.
From the Cathedral we continued south on roads that made 10 km/h seem like your teeth were about to be shaken from your head.
We decided to have a short break and give the bikes a short service - chains tightened and oiled. 15 minutes work and $0.50c AUD.
We attract crowds wherever we stop. Thinking about this later we realised it is now 2 days since we have seen any Westerners.
Joy found a little 'un who thought us hilarious He was so cute!
Again the limestone sugarloaf mountains with houses tucked into the base.
We decided to press on for Vinh, so only stopped for a couple of ice teas along the route.
We did however stop to watch some water buffalo wallow in the slop.
About 3 PM we rolled into Vinh and stopped at a round about to ask directions to the 4 star hotel we were booked into. They pointed to the very large building opposite their shop labelled Phuong Dong Hotel - where we were staying. Oops!
Two incredibly dirty, dishevelled people walked up to the reception staff in this huge, marbled atrium - the staff who clearly were shocked by the appearance of their potential guests - tried very hard NOT to book us in!!
After a shower we reappeared downstairs looking sligthtly more human on our way out to find dinner.
Walking down the main street, we came across the first wholly electric motorcycle shop we have seen.
You see a lot of these bikes around, mostly Yamahas, under the control os school children - so it would be interesting to know if licenses are required?
Tomorrow we have another 200km run to Dong Hoi.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears
We rose early and packed, went down for breakfast and were away by 8 AM for Phat Diem Cathedral. Nimh Binh, the heavy industry town we stayed at last night is known as the start of the Ho Chi Minh highway - used to ferry Communist war materiel south during the Vietnam war - and the town we finish up in tonight (Vinh) is the birthplace of Ho Chi Minh.
But the first 30 kms to Phat Diem Cathedral eventually took us a total of 90 km off highway A1 which was a respite from the madness we were looking forward to.
Phat Diem Cathedral was built between 1875 and 1899 with four roofs and six sets of iron & wood pillars and consists of a network of ponds, lakes, churches, and artificial caves (grottos). On both sides of the church are four smaller churches of different styles. Phuong Dinh Church, part of the Phat Diem complex, is a giant building entirely made of stone. Numerous stone sculptures are on the inside and outside walls. A large bell cast in the 1890s weighing nearly 2 tons is found in the bell tower.
The Bell Tower with a statue of St Peter.
The Stone Cathedral
Inside the Cathedral was sublimely beautiful.
From the Cathedral we continued south on roads that made 10 km/h seem like your teeth were about to be shaken from your head.
We decided to have a short break and give the bikes a short service - chains tightened and oiled. 15 minutes work and $0.50c AUD.
We attract crowds wherever we stop. Thinking about this later we realised it is now 2 days since we have seen any Westerners.
Joy found a little 'un who thought us hilarious
He was so cute!Again the limestone sugarloaf mountains with houses tucked into the base.
We decided to press on for Vinh, so only stopped for a couple of ice teas along the route.
We did however stop to watch some water buffalo wallow in the slop.
About 3 PM we rolled into Vinh and stopped at a round about to ask directions to the 4 star hotel we were booked into. They pointed to the very large building opposite their shop labelled Phuong Dong Hotel - where we were staying. Oops!
Two incredibly dirty, dishevelled people walked up to the reception staff in this huge, marbled atrium - the staff who clearly were shocked by the appearance of their potential guests - tried very hard NOT to book us in!!
After a shower we reappeared downstairs looking sligthtly more human on our way out to find dinner.
Walking down the main street, we came across the first wholly electric motorcycle shop we have seen.
You see a lot of these bikes around, mostly Yamahas, under the control os school children - so it would be interesting to know if licenses are required?
Tomorrow we have another 200km run to Dong Hoi.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears
Last edited by Sebastionbear1; Oct 24, 2012 at 08:30 AM.
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Glad to see someone has a map Sprock
Yep we actually ride along the coast a bit today about halfway through the day's ride. I'm pretty sure we ride past Vietnam's narrowest point today where the country is a mere 25 miles wide!
And Woof, that's always the way. There were actually a couple of others there as well - but out of frame. It's always funny when we stop and ask for directions, we are offered advice from many people and usually take the average of their directions
Looking forward to the smell of the ocean today.
Cheers, SB
Yep we actually ride along the coast a bit today about halfway through the day's ride. I'm pretty sure we ride past Vietnam's narrowest point today where the country is a mere 25 miles wide!
And Woof, that's always the way. There were actually a couple of others there as well - but out of frame. It's always funny when we stop and ask for directions, we are offered advice from many people and usually take the average of their directions
Looking forward to the smell of the ocean today.
Cheers, SB
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From: Bir Tawil
LOL Sounds worse than a nation of blonds on the cell phone.
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Day 17 Vinh to Dong Hoi ~ 200 km
A Fantastic day on the bikes. Mountains, forests, beaches, a little rain, hammocks, very little traffic, a superb fish and vegetable market and an apartment hotel room at our destination
It doesn't get much better than this...................
We found Eucalypt trees on the roadside on one of the forest runs.
Which led to this behaviour
Snorting crushed gum leaves - the smell of home
On one of the short drink breaks down by the ocean, we parked under this little shelter and watched a rain storm approach.
Mrs SB took the opportunity to kick back a little
The next stop was a little fishing village
Where the jetty left a little to be desired
The boats were very colourful and
Ladies ran taxi services via little coracle boats. They also brought the catch back to land from each of the boats as they came back in.
25 km later we were at Dong Hoi and just looked for the biggest hotel in town - which Mrs SB had found on Agoda. We got an apartment room for the night for $50 AUD.
Check this out...........
Entrance hallway leads to the lounge
The bedroom
Most of the bathroom, there is a shower behind me as well.........and........
The view from one of the two balconies in the apartment. So Cool
After a shower and short rest we went out to discover the town.
This ancient gateway is straight out the front of our hotel.
Walking to the market along the estuary we came across a bike shop - in keeping with lots of two wheeled transport packed tightly. Each night all of these are packed back into the shop - with no room left over!
Pedal power!
The market was one of the most interesting and diversified sources of food I've ever seen.
I'm an Entomologist but have no idea what these turn into!?
Babe, can you hear me?
A crustacean of unknown provenance. Anyone enlighten me?
See the seafood!
And just what is that litlle fat bugger in the middle?
We think these were dried mangoes.
Garlic and shallot bulbs
That's the 'Bears paw under this big fish
Walking back to the restaurant we were to have diiner at, we came across this concoction.
A Honda CT110 motor and goodness know what else.......
Tools anyone?
Or a new helmet?
Dinner was in a sit down restaurant and was just divine. But we still have some planning to do as we intend to spend at least two days in Hue as from tomorrow.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears
A Fantastic day on the bikes. Mountains, forests, beaches, a little rain, hammocks, very little traffic, a superb fish and vegetable market and an apartment hotel room at our destination
It doesn't get much better than this...................
We found Eucalypt trees on the roadside on one of the forest runs.
Which led to this behaviour
Snorting crushed gum leaves - the smell of home
On one of the short drink breaks down by the ocean, we parked under this little shelter and watched a rain storm approach.
Mrs SB took the opportunity to kick back a little
The next stop was a little fishing village
Where the jetty left a little to be desired
The boats were very colourful and
Ladies ran taxi services via little coracle boats. They also brought the catch back to land from each of the boats as they came back in.
25 km later we were at Dong Hoi and just looked for the biggest hotel in town - which Mrs SB had found on Agoda. We got an apartment room for the night for $50 AUD.
Check this out...........
Entrance hallway leads to the lounge
The bedroom
Most of the bathroom, there is a shower behind me as well.........and........
The view from one of the two balconies in the apartment. So Cool
After a shower and short rest we went out to discover the town.
This ancient gateway is straight out the front of our hotel.
Walking to the market along the estuary we came across a bike shop - in keeping with lots of two wheeled transport packed tightly. Each night all of these are packed back into the shop - with no room left over!
Pedal power!
The market was one of the most interesting and diversified sources of food I've ever seen.
I'm an Entomologist but have no idea what these turn into!?
Babe, can you hear me?
A crustacean of unknown provenance. Anyone enlighten me?
See the seafood!
And just what is that litlle fat bugger in the middle?
We think these were dried mangoes.
Garlic and shallot bulbs
That's the 'Bears paw under this big fish
Walking back to the restaurant we were to have diiner at, we came across this concoction.
A Honda CT110 motor and goodness know what else.......
Tools anyone?
Or a new helmet?
Dinner was in a sit down restaurant and was just divine. But we still have some planning to do as we intend to spend at least two days in Hue as from tomorrow.
Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears
Last edited by Sebastionbear1; Oct 25, 2012 at 08:53 AM.
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From: Republic of Boon Island
Again nice ones Seb - no no map my neighbor is on assignment as an IBM consultant
in Da Nang working in some sort of Banking Regulations Compliance initiative over there.
We stay in touch
- no no map my neighbor is on assignment as an IBM consultant in Da Nang working in some sort of Banking Regulations Compliance initiative over there.
We stay in touch
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We will probably head down to Da Nang in a few days time. See how we go in Hue and how long we think it will take us to get back to Ha Noi.
This place is just great!
Cheers, SB