Sensational reporting Seb and brilliant photos.
Can you please also give us some close ups and techie report on the bikes when you have time?

Also, watch out for the arctophiles there - make sure you can get away and come back to Oz.

Keep safe....

 

Classic Naga, how the hell did you come across that little gem of a word?

I'm worried about him now, he's meant to be coming out here in late Jan.

By the way Seb, would Mrs SB maybe up for a Yam 250 while you're here? Could be on to a loaner from one of the guys from the local club.

 

You mean I should remove this label from around my neck??



But it's worked so well so far

Cheers, SB

 

- great photo's & the Uncle Ho was was funny even if I was a bit confused momentarily

Great - keeping 'em coming Seb

 

Day 10 Around Sa Pa.

We spent the day touring around Sa Pa and as we'd put all our riding gear into be washed decided to hire a private bus and guide for the morning to look at a few villages and the spectacular scenery. The main population up here are the Hill Tribes of which the Black H'mong are the majority. Our guide for the morning was Chi, a H'mong lady who spoke quite reasonable english.

Now I have to say, the H'mong ladies, apart from being some of the shortest women I have ever laid eyes on, were super salesmen! They would outsell used car salesmen 10 to 1.



As soon as we debarked the bus we were assailed. The noise was astonishing. "you buy from me, you buy from me"



The views were astounding - although the last of the rice was harvested back in July.



We went for a walk of about 6 or 7 km down a big valley and through two villages.



Past water buffalo



Visited a school built by Oxfam with singing children installed



Saw plants of an apparent medicinal nature of which they made hemp clothing



Which was dyed indigo in big tubs



Crossed suspension bridges at the bottom of the valley and



Saw an ingenious water powered stomper for making rice flour.



Terraces with village houses



Dinner just waiting to be collected at the local butcher - who probably also did the dry cleaning



Always accompanied by the chattering, weaving H'mong sales ladies



It really is rather spectacular and would be fantastic to see the rice just before harvest. Today was also the first day we have had full sunshine all day and both of the girls suffered a little sunburn.

Tomorrow we are back on the bikes for the two day return journey to Hanoi to see Jay and Susie off. Many of the photos used in the reports over the last few days have come from Susie's camera - and it takes me about an hour to sort through the hundreds of pictures she takes each day

Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears

 

Many, many great pics, 'Bear. The bridge photo is nice piece of photography

 

Spectacular photos, Seb! An absolutely beautiful country.... I had never considered wanting to go there, but after reading your report and seeing all of the photos, it's made it onto my list of places I'd like to see some day.

 

Day 11 Sa Pa to Yen Bai, 232 km.

Woke to a total white out - packed the bikes, went to the markets to get a jacket for Jay as the descent back to Lao Cai was bound to be cold. Filled the bikes with fuel, oiled the chains and we were off.

The 34 km descent was spectacular and as we dropped below the clouds the scenery again was beautiful.



A typical roadside photo stop.



Eventually the sun came out and we scooted along at a reasonable clip avoiding the suicidal oncoming traffic. Expect the unexpected was the order of the day, and not unusual at all to have an oncoming car/bus/truck or bike on your side of the road on a blind bend.

Every couple of hours we'd stop at a little road side "Ca Fe" and have coffee or tea and a few biscuits. They use condensed milk and it is good



All along this route were ply wood or veneer producers with the thin sheets drying out side their houses.



On the last leg Mrs SB met a crazy driver right over her side of the road on a blind bend and taking avoiding action ended up in a small culvert on the side of the road. A slightly bruised leg and ego and a few minutes sit down whilst we checked the bike and she got back on the horse! Admirable stuff!

We made Yen Bai by 4 PM and locating our hotel, parked for the night.

Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears (one with a small limp )

Tomorrow, 179 KM back to Hanoi.

 

Just wonderful SEB, thank you for the tour and keep it coming.

 

Day 12 Yen Bai to Ha Noi ~ 180km

You wouldn't think that 200km or so would take you all day - but it can - and does - easily in this country.

Both visits to Yen Bai over the last few days we have found strange. Most Western tourists when they visit Sa Pa catch the overnight train which bypasses Yen Bai, therefore the locals have very little exposure to tourists - and it shows. Very little English spoken, hotels set up for Asian tourists almost to the point of suspicion and unfriendliness. Before leaving Sa Pa we had done a little homework and located what looked like a good hotel, but no English at all was spoken and even getting linen for the bed proved difficult. But the room was superb - apartment like - for $30 USD. Didn't offer breakfast which meant another stop in the morning before we could get going.

Anyway, the next morning with Jay still under the weather and Mrs SB a little stiff from the off the day before, we went down the main street to a market where we got some vittles for the previous nights dinner. We bought some bananas and yoghurts and some fried confections a little like doughnuts and were preparing to sit on the kerbing to eat, when a lady grabs Mrs SB by the hand and leads her away! We followed and were invited into her house to sit and eat. The first really friendly gesture we had had in Yen Bai.



The lady who invited us in for breakfast and travellers - and if you look closely you'll see Uncle Ho joined us as well

Finally away we had to refuel and do battle with bloody great trucks that wanted to take over the service station!



Pushy, pushy, pushy..................

Mrs SB's bike had got itself a little dirty in its fall from grace (and off the road) so for $1 USD we had it comprehensively washed whilst we had our first coffee for the day.



Hmmmmmm, almost clean bike

We were going along at a fair clip which in Vietnamese road conditions is about 60 to 70 Km/h and passing lots of laden bikes, I got the camera out to catch a few.



Mmmmmm, dog for dinner tonight - sad but true!



No such thing as a wide load, you just go around!

I came across a Honda and Yamaha dealership which is one of the larger I've seen outside of Han Noi



Bikes, bikes and more bikes............





Inch perfect parking



With a pristine service bay area



Traffic of a slower kind

Eventually after a brilliant run on the freeway system we reached the outskirts of Ha Noi averaging just under 70 km/h for the days run. We were going to hire a cab, install Suzie and follow it to our hotel, but some local gent offered to lead us for the equivalent fare - about $100,000 VND ($5 USD). We followed him straight to the hotel and after a cool lime juice found our rooms and showered. Bliss after the heat of the previous few hours.



One happy man, $100,000 VND richer for 30 minutes work - but we were VERY pleased at his efforts and dedication

After our shower Mrs SB, Susie and I went out for a walk to find Jay some medication for his (still) ailing stomach, then we decided to have a decent walk around before dinner.

Here's some street scenes from Ha Noi's Old Quater



Bamboo sales



Still life with hat



Fresh vegetables everywhere



This lady was rapidly chopping meat into mince!

So, now it was dark and we needed sustenance and after 11 days of Vietnamese food - and dreaming of chips and steaks and pies with sauce, we decided to lash out.



Yes, it's Uncle Ho's twin (somewhat porkier) brother from Kentucky



And it was good...............................

Cheers, The Travelling 'Bears