Chevy 327 help/info
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,492
Likes: 0
From: Northern Michigan
the front is definately not the correct one. Its from a 77 or 78. Why they changed it, who knows. the 77-81 fronts urathane bumpers were well known for warping. they didn't hold their shape very well. But that looks like something more than that. the headlights should not be dropped and the fender meeting the front should line up. It could be from an accident, or just someone not knowing how to align the panels. Also, its very hard to see, but the paint looks pretty bad. Its hard to say whats under it.
Go back, take a magnet with you. Put a piece of paper towel between the magnet and the car so you don't scratch the paint. get a point where the magnet is sticking and then begin to test all of the normal rust areas. that will tell you if its full of bondo or not. It won't tell you if there are patch panels, but at leat you will know if it was rush crap body work job or not.
On the engine. It sounds like crap. That has to be the slowest revving small block I have ever heard. Also, the tick doesn't sound good either. It certainly sounds like something other than a minor lifter. It has a real hard sound to it. Maybe a wrist pin letting the piston slap.
the body does look decent. Its hard to see though. You definately need to get the car on a lift somewhere. just peaking under isn't good enough.
After seeing and hearing it. I wouldn't pay more than 2 grand for it. He may have more than that into it, but I think you will be replacing, or at least rebuilding the engine.
I think you would be into the car 10 grand to get 10 grand out of it. Those cars you see worth 10 grand are original cars. Not pieced together cars.
I would pass on trading your bike for it. It might be a fun car if he wants to sell it for a lot less, but your bike is worth way more than that car.
Go back, take a magnet with you. Put a piece of paper towel between the magnet and the car so you don't scratch the paint. get a point where the magnet is sticking and then begin to test all of the normal rust areas. that will tell you if its full of bondo or not. It won't tell you if there are patch panels, but at leat you will know if it was rush crap body work job or not.
On the engine. It sounds like crap. That has to be the slowest revving small block I have ever heard. Also, the tick doesn't sound good either. It certainly sounds like something other than a minor lifter. It has a real hard sound to it. Maybe a wrist pin letting the piston slap.
the body does look decent. Its hard to see though. You definately need to get the car on a lift somewhere. just peaking under isn't good enough.
After seeing and hearing it. I wouldn't pay more than 2 grand for it. He may have more than that into it, but I think you will be replacing, or at least rebuilding the engine.
I think you would be into the car 10 grand to get 10 grand out of it. Those cars you see worth 10 grand are original cars. Not pieced together cars.
I would pass on trading your bike for it. It might be a fun car if he wants to sell it for a lot less, but your bike is worth way more than that car.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: J-ville, FLORIDA
try not to be junk drunk , cool hot rod ?yes worth $4500?no ... imma T/A fan , and ive seen plenty of em , my dad used to have a "super duty" T/A,,, super car .,. really tho ,that car would go for 2k to 3k here, i dont care what cam it has. id pass for a better car man
