Yo so i made a thread a while ago about looking into an older vette, i passed up on the deal for good reason. anyway, i found a 1980 trans am that wants to trade for a 1000rr. im going to look at it tomorrow.

1980 t/a that was originally a four speed
Original Paint/decals/only two spots of surface rust on outside body supposedly
Carraige said to be solid, great condition, no rust.
smoked T-tops said not to leaking
power everything that was available/ air cond. etc...

327 with:
Muncie 4 speed
Holley carb
Crane cam
Hedman header to Flowmaster
cragar wheels with fresh rubber
new disc brakes (maybe just new pads idk)

Said he thought the cam was a 512 lift and duration 224, i looked up all of crane cams on summit and they dont have a 512 lift model, but they do have a 224 duration with like a high 4 something lift

Thoughts? Things to look for? Im not an idiot but i know turbocharged 4 cylinders.. ha not muscle. so any insight appreciated on the car, well mostly the drivetrain. im sure some of you grew up with this stuff...

thanks.

 

well flow master is junk...

327 is a 350 with a different crank in it...

so its a bullet proof motor...

 

um wrong they sound like pure sex!!!

Close but not quite

and almost if used within its limits. Hard highway miles above 55 will kill a 327, too short of a stroke will rev itself to death unless gear right. My old 67 chevy pu with 3.73 gear went thru 2 327's b4 I put a 350 LT1 in it. A 327 is great for playing around town or crusing tho

think its impossible to fit a 350 crank in a 327 w/o some serious machine work but a 350 can be destroked fitting a 327 crank in it.

 

Actualy Z is right. A 327 and a 350 block are the same. The 327 and 350 both have a 4inch bore but the 327 has a 3.25 stroke and the 350 has a 3.48 stroke. Unless the 327 is a early 67 and older the journals on the crank are smaller. Thats what I liked about building chevy engines you could combine just about anything you wanted. You can even put a 400 crank in a 350 block and make a 383, all yo need to do is cut the journals on the crank. Playfulgod is right about the motor being small though and as far as the cam most cam companys change specs every year. Johnnyh

 

if you can overlook the fact that the internals on them arent stainless and they rust from the inside out, eventually sounding like poo.... haha (around here it only takes a year or two to get them rusty enough to blow out)

myself I prefer Labree, Bassanni, Magnaflow, SLP < for muscle at least....

once you start getting into euopean cars Tubi and kreissieg are my favorites

 

I've owned several TA's over the years. A 74, 77,78, and an 80. I really like the second gen cars. However, the 79-81 are going to be your least desirable and have the lowest value. In all honesty, since its not original, it really doesn't have a lot of value, unless its in mint condition. Things to keep an eye out for are the rear floor boards. You really need to get the car up on a lift and look at the underside of the car very close. I wouldn't buy one without doing it. If it has t-tops, its even more important to make sure the underside is clean. My 80 was spotless, yet still would twist when ever you gave it gas. Even jacking up one tire would make the doors drag and hard to open. I eventually tie'd the subframes and it made a world of difference. Also, check the doors. the chances are pretty good they will be sagging. Those doors were so long and heavy, the hinges didn't last long. Its not an impossible job to fix, but it will cost some money and time. Also, check all of the bushings in the suspension and body mounts.

If I were buying a second gen, I'd be looking for and early model. 70-73 is by far the best looking IMHO, but they are also the most expensive.

As for the engine. For some reason, its always bothered me that I see so many trans ams with chevy engines. And it sure seems like everyone has a 327. For some reason, everyone thinks the 327 was the best engine ever. Also, I would get all of the specs for the cam and everything. If the engine is still running iron heads, its extremely easy to over cam. A 512 lift is getting up there. Hopefully they upgraded the heads along with the cam. Just don't buy into the hype that the 327 was the best engine, when it really wasn't all that great. Also, another issue with an sbc in a trans am is the shaker hood scoop generally doesn't locate correctly with a sbc. A lot of times, people will attach the shaker right onto the underside of the hood and it looks horrible.

Also, see if he changed the front springs or not. that 327 weighs a good 150lbs less than the pontiac or olds motor that was removed. So chances are its sitting high in the front and low in the rear. It will also affect the handling of the car. And inspect it really close for previous damage. it wasn't hard to twist one of those cars with moderate accident. Kneal down and look across the top lines of the car. the front should be parallel to the roof, and the roof should be to the trunk. if they are not, walk away. There is a possibility that the bushings on the frame or front core could have sagged and created a little sag on one end or the other, but its not worth the risk if something is twisted.

Im certainly not trying tell you don't do it. But it would have to be a pretty special TA for me to trade a 1000RR for it. But I guess the only good side is the second gen cars are only going to increase in value. It may be a slow increase, but at least they are no longer loosing value.

How much is your bike worth?

 

Wow lots of mis information on here. As mentioned above flowmasters kick ****. Contrary to whats posted above, freeway miles do not kill 327's. They have a 3.25" stroke, they will do better on the freeway then a 350 [3.48" stroke] at the same rpm as the pistons will be moving slower. Your 327's dieing were either bad luck or poorly built motors. You can fit a 3.48" crank no problem in a large journal 327 block, 3.75" stroke with some clearencing.

Now the real question is, how poor of condition is this cbr1000RR that you want to trade it for a 2nd gen camaro? Those things are about $1500 all day long out here. Besides the cam it sounds like this 327 is all stock which means crap heads, crap compression and cast everything [unless he stuck a hi-po he pulled from something from the 60's].

 

U can do some neat things to a 327 if u have some money for instance ive seen people "destroke " them to a 305 and they will scream. But personally I wouldn do it. KI

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXfYU2W8ARQ

so it was raining = no test drive, the windows dont have the molding on them, he has the molding though

things missing on car:
driver side outside door lever - has it needs put on
window lining/molding - has it needs put on
driver side mirror
driver side door elbow rest

Outside body was good, didnt check for straightness as justa mentioned. or the doors for sag. crawled under car and it looked rust free. didnt check that well just an overview (ground was soaked) it has one quarter size rust hole in the trunk on the right side. I find it a little weird that it is the only spot and the rest of the car being clean. Replaced 6X9's in the back and aftermarket radio. im thinking a kid had it last cause i wouldnt really be concerned with the radio.

Problems:
can you hear the tick in the vid, listen again maybe? 720p
the front headlight assembly does not match up flush, not greatest view in vid but you can see the corner doesnt match flush, both corners and ridge down the hood are like that. Im think it a late 70's front on an 80. Thoughts on that? i know they didnt put that much effort into some of these cars, so im guessing:
1)front came like that from the factory
2)it was replaced for whatever reason
3) it curled in over time

pictures on my other computer. deal would not be done till Saturday so i have time to think.

The rr is an 05 with 16k, Two bros, flush mounts, sliders, windscreen, fender elim..etc
im betting i could get six for the bike as it is mint with newer tread. have 4,300 in it tho. Has an electrical ghost, not r/r or stator. leakage test failed guessing a short in the tail.. or god knows. put it up for winter after i diagnosed it wasnt a stator or r/r. finally got warm weather and on spring break so tearing into it tomorrow.

maybe it's not a good deal, i just figured for 4,500 you paint it real nice and add some flavor here and there and all of a sudden you got something that would go for 10k? i thought it was just an opportunity to have some fun and make a little for your efforts. i would then sell the f3 to pay for the silver 1k

 

gotta remember im from cleveland ohio man, rust city. looked around at some others and for a built motor your looking at 6,000. idk. having seconds thoughts and maybe its better to find another one. there is a blue one with recipts for motor work perhaps...