08 cbr600rr won't start
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Junior Member
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08 cbr600rr won't start
I am seeing the help of someone who might be able to help me with figuring out why my 08 cbr600rr won't start. I have replaced the ecu, coils, plugs, harness, ckp, stator and I have bypassed the kickstand switch. I still can't get it to fire I have zero spark. I ordered a cam pulser sensor an it's supposed to be here Friday. So Amy help would be greatly appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Stop wasting time replacing perfectly working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts. Nothing will change. Changing your tyres and brakes won't fix your starting problem will it?
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
Last edited by dannoxyz; Apr 20, 2023 at 03:53 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Here's example of testing and measuring to narrow down to just ONE part that's actually bad. No shotgunning massive pile of parts replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts and wasting tonne of time and money.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...-coils-162995/
Notice how actual fix that works ends up being completely different from what they thought it was going to take? I guide them away from dead-ends and help them find path to proper solution.
I can help you fix this bike so it works perfectly. Without wasting time & money. You'll have to follow my instructions precisely. What it's gonna require is completely different from what you think it's gonna take. After all, if you really know solution to this puzzle, you would've done it by now, right?
Do you want bike to work?
https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-t...-coils-162995/
Notice how actual fix that works ends up being completely different from what they thought it was going to take? I guide them away from dead-ends and help them find path to proper solution.
I can help you fix this bike so it works perfectly. Without wasting time & money. You'll have to follow my instructions precisely. What it's gonna require is completely different from what you think it's gonna take. After all, if you really know solution to this puzzle, you would've done it by now, right?
Do you want bike to work?
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Stop wasting time replacing perfectly working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts. Nothing will change. Changing your tyres and brakes won't fix your starting problem will it?
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
Coils on primary is supposed to be 1.1-1.5ohms on the secondary side they are supposed to be 11.1-11.8k ohms. when I checked them primary side was 1.5-1.6ohms the secondary side was 000.04 across all 4 coils.
Ckp was ohmed at .468
cam pulser ohmed at .483
Stator ohmed at .486
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Stop wasting time replacing perfectly working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts. Nothing will change. Changing your tyres and brakes won't fix your starting problem will it?
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
I hope all those parts you replaced were brand-new factory OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. Otherwise you cannot be guaranteed they are good and functional. You may have introduced additional errors and faults into system by replacing perfectly-working parts with defective items.
1. What testing have you done to narrow down problem area?
2. What measurements and numbers have you obtained to determine if parts are good or bad?
3. Do you have official Honda service-manual with wiring-diagram?
4. Do you have multimeter and know how to use it to measure voltage and resistance?
Unless you are Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires, there's absolutely zero way humans can look at wires and determine if it's conducting electricity properly. We have technology that extends our senses. Ultraviolet and infrared cameras to see light-frequencies our eyes can't. We have thermometers to measure heat-ranges that our skin can't accurately measure. There are devices we can use to determine if a wire is actually conducting electricity from one end to other...
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases... I bet there is just one single thing amiss. Most likely corroded or loose connector or broken wire.
Start with basics:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
This may be all that's needed to find where problem is and to fix it.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Shoppes don't have anyone that knows electronics. You're actually better than 90% of them in that you can actually use multimeter. Long time ago, I would use shoppes for labour. Mount my tyres, or do valve-adjustment. But with one screw-up after another (how can you mess up an oil change?), I just ended up doing all my own work now. Even dealerships, with supposedly manufacturer-trained technicians, are no longer trustworthy enough to get simple jobs done!
You're skipping critical steps and making way more work for yourself than necessary. Let's compare to situation where you come home and your sprinklers aren't working! So you replace all spinkler heads, nope. You dig up underground pipes and make sure the're not clogged, well let's replace them anyway since we're here. Still nope. Sprinkler valves must be dead, let's replace them all. Nope, still not working. Must be wiring between control box is bad, let's rewire! Nope.... Control box is bad, let's replace that too!!!
See, you're starting from wrong end. Need to test source of power & water 1st. Flip kitchen lights on & off to verify you've got power. Then run kitchen faucet to make sure you've got water. NO WATER!!! Some city workers broke water pipe earlier and you've got no water!
All that work you did on sprinklers replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts was for naught. ALWAYS start upstream at source for troubleshooting testing and measuring. In spinklers case, it was verifying you've got power and water going in before anything else.
So for bike, we need to start at SOURCE for everything, the battery! Then trace flow of electricity to each end component. Where power disappears, shows problem is between that location and previous point that did have power. Makes sense?
Let's start at source, please identify colour of wires tested:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
You're skipping critical steps and making way more work for yourself than necessary. Let's compare to situation where you come home and your sprinklers aren't working! So you replace all spinkler heads, nope. You dig up underground pipes and make sure the're not clogged, well let's replace them anyway since we're here. Still nope. Sprinkler valves must be dead, let's replace them all. Nope, still not working. Must be wiring between control box is bad, let's rewire! Nope.... Control box is bad, let's replace that too!!!
See, you're starting from wrong end. Need to test source of power & water 1st. Flip kitchen lights on & off to verify you've got power. Then run kitchen faucet to make sure you've got water. NO WATER!!! Some city workers broke water pipe earlier and you've got no water!
All that work you did on sprinklers replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts was for naught. ALWAYS start upstream at source for troubleshooting testing and measuring. In spinklers case, it was verifying you've got power and water going in before anything else.
So for bike, we need to start at SOURCE for everything, the battery! Then trace flow of electricity to each end component. Where power disappears, shows problem is between that location and previous point that did have power. Makes sense?
Let's start at source, please identify colour of wires tested:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
Last edited by dannoxyz; Apr 20, 2023 at 02:00 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Shops don't have anyone that knows electronics. You're actually better than 90% of them in that you can actually use multimeter. Long time ago, I would use shoppes for labour. Mount my tyres, or do valve-adjustment. But with one screw-up after another (how can you mess up an oil change?), I just ended up doing all my own work now. Even dealerships, with supposedly manufacturer-trained technicians, are no longer trustworthy enough to get simple jobs done!
You're skipping critical steps and making way more work for yourself than necessary. Let's compare to situation where you come home and your sprinklers aren't working! So you replace all spinkler heads, nope. You dig up underground pipes and make sure the're not clogged, well let's replace them anyway since we're here. Still nope. Sprinkler valves must be dead, let's replace them all. Nope, still not working. Must be wiring between control box is bad, let's rewire! Nope.... Control box is bad, let's replace that too!!!
See, you're starting from wrong end. Need to test source of power & water 1st. Flip kitchen lights on & off to verify you've got power. Then run kitchen faucet to make sure you've got water. NO WATER!!! Some city workers broke water pipe earlier and you've got no water!
All that work you did on sprinklers replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts was for naught. ALWAYS start upstream at source for troubleshooting testing and measuring. In spinklers case, it was verifying you've got power and water going in before anything else.
So for bike, we need to start at SOURCE for everything, the battery! Then trace flow of electricity to each end component. Where power disappears, shows problem is between that location and previous point that did have power. Makes sense?
Let's start at source:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
You're skipping critical steps and making way more work for yourself than necessary. Let's compare to situation where you come home and your sprinklers aren't working! So you replace all spinkler heads, nope. You dig up underground pipes and make sure the're not clogged, well let's replace them anyway since we're here. Still nope. Sprinkler valves must be dead, let's replace them all. Nope, still not working. Must be wiring between control box is bad, let's rewire! Nope.... Control box is bad, let's replace that too!!!
See, you're starting from wrong end. Need to test source of power & water 1st. Flip kitchen lights on & off to verify you've got power. Then run kitchen faucet to make sure you've got water. NO WATER!!! Some city workers broke water pipe earlier and you've got no water!
All that work you did on sprinklers replacing perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts was for naught. ALWAYS start upstream at source for troubleshooting testing and measuring. In spinklers case, it was verifying you've got power and water going in before anything else.
So for bike, we need to start at SOURCE for everything, the battery! Then trace flow of electricity to each end component. Where power disappears, shows problem is between that location and previous point that did have power. Makes sense?
Let's start at source:
5. measure battery-voltage with everything off, volts = ??
6. measure voltage on power-input wire to ignition-switch, volts = ??
7. key ON, measure voltage on power-output wire to fusebox from ignition-switch, volts = ??
So i moved to tracing wires to the ecu found 12v at the ecu no issue found at it. Which led me to going to the coil harness to ensure I had 12v at the plugs which I found obviously had 12v no issue which as I stated earlier as it also dimmed as you crank it over. Which led me to check the ckp an the cam pulser as well as the rectifier and stator. With no results I moved to figure the mercury switch tripped an had gone bad so I followed how to bypass the lean sensor as I've seen people have issue with them.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Again, skipping too many steps.
Do you get 3-sec fuel-pump prime when you turn ON kill-switch?
BTW - what is history of this bike? When was last time it worked perfectly? What happened between then and now?
Do you get 3-sec fuel-pump prime when you turn ON kill-switch?
BTW - what is history of this bike? When was last time it worked perfectly? What happened between then and now?
Last edited by dannoxyz; Apr 20, 2023 at 10:04 AM.
