What to expect next...
#1
What to expect next...
So I bought my 1996 CBR 1000F about 3 months ago with a whopping 15500 miles on it, and in the last 3 months I have put just under 10,000 hard miles on her. This is only the second bike I have ever owned and I didn't have the first one long enough to go through 1 set of tires ( I have went through two sets already this season).
I was just curious as to what I should expect to go wrong in the near future. As of today I have fixed a blown head gasket, chain and sprocket. There have also been some issues with the breather box being weathered and I put black hi-temp sealant on it. In addition to wondering what to expect in the future I was wondering what I should be doing in the mean time to keep her running smooth.
I have no history on the bike at all and bought it under the impression that everything was mechanically sound and would have to do no work to her(B.S.). I have no idea what I should be doing aside from regular oil changes to keep her in tip top shape
I was just curious as to what I should expect to go wrong in the near future. As of today I have fixed a blown head gasket, chain and sprocket. There have also been some issues with the breather box being weathered and I put black hi-temp sealant on it. In addition to wondering what to expect in the future I was wondering what I should be doing in the mean time to keep her running smooth.
I have no history on the bike at all and bought it under the impression that everything was mechanically sound and would have to do no work to her(B.S.). I have no idea what I should be doing aside from regular oil changes to keep her in tip top shape
#2
It's a Honda so that pretty much covers it. Seriously though, all you can really do is your regular oil changes and a good quality oil filter every second change. The only other things I do to mine are the regular things like lubing chain, all pivot points and keeping an eye on the fluids. Lift it up and give the wheel bearings etc. a bit of a shake around every now and then. On some bikes the rear shock top mouting bolt comes a bit loose. Just keep listening to it and don't thrash the **** out of it all the time due to the miles. It's really cool to read about one still going strong with that much on it. What a motor!!
#5
Have replaced everything on the list, but the steering head bearings. I am not sure how the bike should sound or run, but I don't hear any ticking from the valves so I am assuming they are OK. All I know is that I take this dinosaur to the mountains and have no problem running with the big boys on their pretty new liter bikes. If only I could find some good rear sets I would have it made. How many miles are you guys getting out of a tank? Before I did the head gasket I was getting 160 / fill up after I am pulling about 130. I just tightened the clamps up form carbs to intake and breather box and sealed up some ol dry rot. i think this should help a lot. Does anyone know where to get a cheap crush/cush bearing (the rubber insert that goes in the rear wheel)?
#6
#7
Here is something you guys could help me out with.
I am considering doing a major overhaul on my bike this winter and am unsure where to start. I know I want to do some serious engine mods, but I dont want to sacrifice any motor life. When boring the cylinders and putting sleeves and bigger pistons in how much is too much? I want her to still be street legal, but barley... I am also thinking about trying to drop a significant amount of weight off as well and don't know where to begin... Maybe I should get a treadmill
I am considering doing a major overhaul on my bike this winter and am unsure where to start. I know I want to do some serious engine mods, but I dont want to sacrifice any motor life. When boring the cylinders and putting sleeves and bigger pistons in how much is too much? I want her to still be street legal, but barley... I am also thinking about trying to drop a significant amount of weight off as well and don't know where to begin... Maybe I should get a treadmill
#8
Quiet valves can mean they're a bit tight. Not saying they are, but they can be.
On the cush rubbers, you can get them from Mr. Cycles for like $50/set new. They come in sets of 2 (one piece) and you'd need 5 sets ($9+ each).
Your other option is fleabay, you may get lucky.
On the overhaul/big bore... I wouldn't. Personally, I don't think it's worth the hassle, expense, and possibility of screwing something up for the potential gain. If I really needed to go faster, I'd just get a different bike.
These bikes are quick enough as it is. Just my opinion, tho. Street legality shouldn't be an issue.
On the weight reduction, I'd say a treadmill is an ok place to start, but I'd rather just eat less. I don't run unless something is chasing me, and even then... I have fists and/or guns for that...
On the cush rubbers, you can get them from Mr. Cycles for like $50/set new. They come in sets of 2 (one piece) and you'd need 5 sets ($9+ each).
Your other option is fleabay, you may get lucky.
On the overhaul/big bore... I wouldn't. Personally, I don't think it's worth the hassle, expense, and possibility of screwing something up for the potential gain. If I really needed to go faster, I'd just get a different bike.
These bikes are quick enough as it is. Just my opinion, tho. Street legality shouldn't be an issue.
On the weight reduction, I'd say a treadmill is an ok place to start, but I'd rather just eat less. I don't run unless something is chasing me, and even then... I have fists and/or guns for that...
#9
Quiet valves can mean they're a bit tight. Not saying they are, but they can be.
On the cush rubbers, you can get them from Mr. Cycles for like $50/set new. They come in sets of 2 (one piece) and you'd need 5 sets ($9+ each).
Your other option is fleabay, you may get lucky.
On the overhaul/big bore... I wouldn't. Personally, I don't think it's worth the hassle, expense, and possibility of screwing something up for the potential gain. If I really needed to go faster, I'd just get a different bike.
These bikes are quick enough as it is. Just my opinion, tho. Street legality shouldn't be an issue.
On the weight reduction, I'd say a treadmill is an ok place to start, but I'd rather just eat less. I don't run unless something is chasing me, and even then... I have fists and/or guns for that...
On the cush rubbers, you can get them from Mr. Cycles for like $50/set new. They come in sets of 2 (one piece) and you'd need 5 sets ($9+ each).
Your other option is fleabay, you may get lucky.
On the overhaul/big bore... I wouldn't. Personally, I don't think it's worth the hassle, expense, and possibility of screwing something up for the potential gain. If I really needed to go faster, I'd just get a different bike.
These bikes are quick enough as it is. Just my opinion, tho. Street legality shouldn't be an issue.
On the weight reduction, I'd say a treadmill is an ok place to start, but I'd rather just eat less. I don't run unless something is chasing me, and even then... I have fists and/or guns for that...
#10
I've been down the big bore route and wouldn't go there again. I put a Wiseco 1170 kit with high comp pistons and big smoothbores with a Harris 4 into 1. The compression was so high that I had to carry a bottle of octane booster to stop the pinging. In the end I lowered the compression because of the hassle. What can I say...I was 21 at the time and all (nearly) I wanted to do was go faster!! Should've just bought a faster bike.
I know a guy with a TL 1000. It frikin' hammers! Might not have the top end horses but, like most big twins, it has huge torque. Riding position looks a bit uncomfortable though, very prone with lots of weight on the hands. Get a fireblade if you want to focus more on the twisties
I know a guy with a TL 1000. It frikin' hammers! Might not have the top end horses but, like most big twins, it has huge torque. Riding position looks a bit uncomfortable though, very prone with lots of weight on the hands. Get a fireblade if you want to focus more on the twisties
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