After my recent ignition failure 3 hours from home that resulted in me taking a steak knife to my wiring loom i have decided to go for a keyless ignition switch. It will work out cheaper than a lock set and be a bit fun too.
I have ordered a rfid module and a latching relay. The idea is that I will swipe a keyfob over a part of the cowl (not sure where yet) and that will turn the ignition on, repeat and it turns the ignition off.

My thoughts so far.

Wire the fan to the Battery wire (red) before the relay so it has power available permenantly as I know that the engine temp briefly rises after stopping before it falls. I would like the fan to remain on for a short time after the bike is stopped and turn off when the thermo switch registers that it is cool enough like many modern bikes.

Dont bother with the park lock setting cause Ive never used it (has anyone else?).

The latching relay will connect Ign (red/black) with Batt (red).

Tl1 & 2 will be joined.

Looking for some constructive critisism. Anything jump out at you as being not OK or not the best idea?

Thanks in advance
Regards
Damian

 

I do use the lock now and then. You don't need to lose it. The keyless system is wired in so, keep the mechanical lock in place for locking the forks and keeping the factory look. You CAN have the best of both worlds.

The down side is, you will have to post a how to when finished.

 

On the "AMA - a bike thief" on Redditt, he said that the best thing you could do is lock the steering stem to deter criminals....


So if you're worried about theft, that'd weigh on my mind.

 

2102T Directed Electronics Passive Keyless Entry System | eBay

If the RFiD module wasn`t too expensive I`d consider using this, or some equalivent, as the main circuit instead so you don`t have to have a receiver in the fairings to sweep the fob over, all you need to do is walk into the proximity of the bike and it will recognize you without ever touching the fob. You`ll get the blinkers to flash as an indicator too. My keyless ignition system is based on that circuit but it has been modified with an extra board to fit the purpose better and make it a bit smarter. You also should consider converting your engine kill switch into a kill-everything switch or you won`t be able to shut down the power without sweeping the fob/walking away. My system works so that first I walk to the bike and get recognized, then make sure the engine kill switch is at ON position, pull in the clutch to wake up the power and start.

And no I cannot provide a wiring diagram/parts layout/board schematic as I bought it from this one chap that makes them over at a Triumph forum, although he can make one to fit any bike that hasn`t got a factory immobilizer.

 

I should clarify
I am definitely keeping the mechanical steering locking mechanism. What I meant was, when the steering lock is on and the key is in or out, there appears to be the ability to leave your park lights on (Aust model). That is something I have never used so am not planning to keep.
Cheers
Damian

 

Rfid is much more difficult to hack as the key is passive and needs to be within a couple of inches of the reciever. A proximity key needs to send a signal that reaches several feet and there is hardware that is pretty easily available that can copy and replicate the signal.
Keyless systems on cars easily hacked, researchers say | Computerworld

Once the system is up and running i am going to put a disc in the right cuff of my jacket. They are plastic and about the size of a 20c coin. I will still keep the fob with me on my house keys incase my jacket is stolen by monkeys.