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How To: Stick Coil Modification for the Honda CBR1000F - Picture Intensive

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  #31  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by snotter
Hi,

I'm not certain what you are asking here, but I'll do my best to answer your question anyway!
Asking that if the mod still works, as in: it has not failed over time. It seems that it keeps on working.
Originally Posted by snotter
In the original set-up, there are two coils, and each one fires two plugs simultaneously. One spark ignites the mixture in that cylinder, and the other spark is just wasted. On the next revolution, it is the other way around. In the new system, there are now separate coils for each spark plug, but are wired so that two still fire at once, one igniting the mixture, the other wasting a spark. This is important as the bike's ECU is configured to work that way. The resistance of the new coil pair should be around the same value as the resistance of the original single coil or there is a risk of overloading and burning out the ECU. The 929 plug sticks are around half the resistance of the original coil, so wiring them in series means that the total resistance of the pair is around the same value as the original coil - as needed.
This part is and was totally clear to me.
Originally Posted by snotter
Hopefully you have also bought the loom to go with the sticks. Simply strip off all the coverings to expose the wires. You will see a black and white wire coming from each stick. This has the same function as the B/W wire in the original loom. Follow the wiring diagram I posted to connect the coils, and you should end up with 3 wires coming out of the loom - one B/W (you can solder the two together), one blue / yellow, one yellow / blue.
Yep, bought a loom also. What I was originally thinking, is the polarity of the spark. As I see TimBucTwo has mentioned about it also. Would be better if all of the spark plugs got the spark with correct polarity, to keep the plug working as it is designed. Spark jumps with less voltage when the polarity is right. But then again, the polarity is wrong in the original OEM setup also for half of the plugs...
Originally Posted by snotter

On the bike, follow the loom with the 4 female spade terminals that connected to the original coils and you will see it terminates at a connector with a milky clear covering. Remove this connector and the loom and strip off all the coverings. You will see where the B/W wire is spliced into 2. Cut all the wires just before the split. Now solder these 3 wires to the 3 wires coming out of your new loom (checking you ahve enough length to reach the connecting block). Now you are done! Tidy up and start your bike, and enjoy a 10 year advance in ignition technology!
I did the mod, plainly copying the original circuit, with the original "fail" of half of the cylinders having the wrong polarity of the spark. What prevented me of "fixing this design flaw" is now beyond my memory. Lazyness? Don't remember... Perhaps I'll fix it some other day, but now I have another problem... with piston rings of a Wiseco R1049 kit. Drove under 3k miles and oil rings lost all tension, not able to remove oil from bore wall... compression rings flooded with oil, not able to hold compression. Result? Bike spitting oil thru exhaust, smoking blue in heavy "explosions". I mean that it spit a big puff of blue smoke every now and then at WOT... Smoked more than should all the time... Stripped the engine and found the new pistons with failed rings... :/
 
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Last edited by Sprock; 06-29-2013 at 09:35 PM. Reason: off topic start a thread for the piston rings issue
  #32  
Old 06-30-2013, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by boru
timbuctwo,
i don't know how many times ive read your response,
but you're way over my head!
i still can't see a problem with what i said, and the original setup from S B.
thick...
Basically, #2&3 are not wired correctly.

In S.B's first post, photo #3 the wires for #2&3 should be switched. In other words, BL/W (-) and BU/Y (+). Not only are they mislabeled, he followed the incorrect labeling. Its no big deal as only the two wires on #2&3 need to be switched.

In photo #6 where the coil loom is correctly wired for #1&4 as Y/BU feeds W (+) to positive side of #1. The output of #1 (-side) feeds the positive side of #4. #4's output side (-) returns in the loom to the BL/W (-) in the bikes harness (Photo 12 &13).

The problem is, #2&3 are wired in reverse polarity. The positive side of #2 is hooked to BL/W (-), should be positive (BU/Y). #2&3 are in series and returns to the bike loom from #3 negative side to the positive side of the bike loom. This return is where the coil loom's negative needs to return to the bike's negative side of the loom for proper plasma arch and plug life.
 

Last edited by TimBucTwo; 06-30-2013 at 10:57 AM.
  #33  
Old 06-30-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TimBucTwo
Yep! Your correct. I had to go back and check SB's job. He needs to switch his yellow and green wires on 2&3 coils. (sorry SB)
SB can simply switch them out with the blade connectors meet the original wire harness.

The soft ground electrode will not take the punishment that the harder center electrode will.



edit: The polarities are correct in his diagram but the wire colors aren't. The top two colors need to be switched. B/Y should be + and B/W should be -.
Brilliant stuff TBT - thanks! I'll change the wiring diagram to suit and edit the original post when I boot up the computer it is on.

Cheers, SB
 
  #34  
Old 07-01-2013, 11:12 AM
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What's interesting is the direction the electron flow is going in the coil circuit.

In the charging system the head is treated as a negative charge but in the coil loop its treated as a positive charge. With the head being to the positive side of the arch jump the electrons flow to the head after jumping from the hot insulated center of the plug.

Its backwards from what you would expect.
 
  #35  
Old 07-02-2013, 11:57 AM
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I really want to do this but I think just getting my bike running is priority right now...
 
  #36  
Old 07-04-2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TimBucTwo
Basically, #2&3 are not wired correctly.

In S.B's first post, photo #3 the wires for #2&3 should be switched. In other words, BL/W (-) and BU/Y (+). Not only are they mislabeled, he followed the incorrect labeling. Its no big deal as only the two wires on #2&3 need to be switched.

In photo #6 where the coil loom is correctly wired for #1&4 as Y/BU feeds W (+) to positive side of #1. The output of #1 (-side) feeds the positive side of #4. #4's output side (-) returns in the loom to the BL/W (-) in the bikes harness (Photo 12 &13).

The problem is, #2&3 are wired in reverse polarity. The positive side of #2 is hooked to BL/W (-), should be positive (BU/Y). #2&3 are in series and returns to the bike loom from #3 negative side to the positive side of the bike loom. This return is where the coil loom's negative needs to return to the bike's negative side of the loom for proper plasma arch and plug life.
Thanks for all your work/understanding TBT,

Wiring diagram modified and first post edited. Let me know if it is good!

Cheers, SB
 
  #37  
Old 01-16-2014, 04:58 AM
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  #38  
Old 01-16-2014, 12:42 PM
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^ Those should work great. Nice price.

welcome to the forum.

I checked out your photos from your other post, 48k mi, she's just a baby. LOL
Nice looking bike. The coils will get her running in tip top shape. I'm glad I did the mod.
 

Last edited by TimBucTwo; 01-16-2014 at 12:51 PM.
  #39  
Old 01-17-2014, 05:52 AM
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Great, will get on it TimBucTwo. Just to check - the diagram on page 1 is now all good?
 
  #40  
Old 01-17-2014, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by yourebarred
Great, will get on it TimBucTwo. Just to check - the diagram on page 1 is now all good?


Yep - all fixed

Cheers, SB
 


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