How-To: F4i Oil Change
Really great! This is I need. thank all eveyone 4 shared !
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I like this description of your site... it is clean simple, to the point and accurate hahahah for sure !!!
-Lee
Care to elaborate? I know how to change the oil, but I'm afraid to take off my fairing. Would love to know how to change it without taking the fairing off...
1. Put it on stands/ or you could put it over a curb, then there is more room underneath to fit an oil pan.
2. Drain oil
3. Take out old filter, use oil to put a ring around the new one (so its easy to get off next time), install new filter.
4. Put drain plug back in
5. Fill with oil

sorry that is a very basic description but its the same as changing your oil without the fairings but skipping the fairing removal part.
2. Drain oil
3. Take out old filter, use oil to put a ring around the new one (so its easy to get off next time), install new filter.
4. Put drain plug back in
5. Fill with oil
sorry that is a very basic description but its the same as changing your oil without the fairings but skipping the fairing removal part.
1. Put it on stands/ or you could put it over a curb, then there is more room underneath to fit an oil pan.
2. Drain oil
3. Take out old filter, use oil to put a ring around the new one (so its easy to get off next time), install new filter.
4. Put drain plug back in
5. Fill with oil

sorry that is a very basic description but its the same as changing your oil without the fairings but skipping the fairing removal part.
2. Drain oil
3. Take out old filter, use oil to put a ring around the new one (so its easy to get off next time), install new filter.
4. Put drain plug back in
5. Fill with oil
sorry that is a very basic description but its the same as changing your oil without the fairings but skipping the fairing removal part.
All I did was wrap the headers with tin foil and then created a channel in the foil so the oil flowed into the pan. Other than that, everything was straight forward. I don't even have a stand, just did it while it was sitting on the kick stand. Took me with drain time about 20 minutes.
Question; why do they recommend you put a new washer on the drain plug every time? Hell, I have had my car for 10 years and it has the original washer on the drain plug and it works just fine.
Question; why do they recommend you put a new washer on the drain plug every time? Hell, I have had my car for 10 years and it has the original washer on the drain plug and it works just fine.
When the drain bolt is torqued properly, the crush washer it will deform and make a better seal. I always used the original one though
When the drain bolt is torqued properly, the crush washer it will deform and make a better seal. I always used the original one though
One question, isn't brake cleaner a really bad idea on any type of plastic? I understand the fairings are rigid but over time it should cause fading, and could reduce the integrity of the plastic causing it to fray or crack...
Also as for the breaker bars, I picked up two brand new 2 footers off e-bay for $25 with shipping. I had to rebuild the front axle and replace the rear on my truck so those came in handy! As for the front axle, the lower nut on the TTB connecting the radius arm was stuck solid and normally required 300ft Lbs torque to put it on. Those 2 foot breaker bars I had couldn't cut it. I went to Home Depot and picked up a 3 foot fuel pipe (black hard core pipe has to be rated to handle the most intense pressure) slid that on the back of the breaker bar and I could have honestly paid the 12 year old down the street to break those bolts loose. Before I almost gave myself a hernia sliding all over the floor bracing myself against random parts of the truck and it wouldn't budge. Amazing what several more inches will get ya
Good write up though!
Also as for the breaker bars, I picked up two brand new 2 footers off e-bay for $25 with shipping. I had to rebuild the front axle and replace the rear on my truck so those came in handy! As for the front axle, the lower nut on the TTB connecting the radius arm was stuck solid and normally required 300ft Lbs torque to put it on. Those 2 foot breaker bars I had couldn't cut it. I went to Home Depot and picked up a 3 foot fuel pipe (black hard core pipe has to be rated to handle the most intense pressure) slid that on the back of the breaker bar and I could have honestly paid the 12 year old down the street to break those bolts loose. Before I almost gave myself a hernia sliding all over the floor bracing myself against random parts of the truck and it wouldn't budge. Amazing what several more inches will get ya

Good write up though!
Last edited by entity-unknown; Aug 28, 2009 at 05:35 PM.


