Congrats on the major choice, you wont regret it! I just graduated with my BSEE and am starting my "big boy job"(lol) next week.

The blue white is the signal wire, and the blue is the running light wire.(or backwards, dont remember). The only reason for the diodes is to prevent the running light current from backfeeding your gauge cluster and leaving your indicator lights on solid.

If you think this is fun, check out some of my integrated taillight threads. I made one with the stock housing and a couple relays, and another one I designed a PCB board and used tons of LED's.

Where are you going to school, if I may ask?

I go to the University of North Carolina at Charlotte. I just started my junior year. I have been stressin' latley with the amount of studing and such so I found a great deal on a mint 02 cbr f4i. Has helped me manage stress very well :) You are forced to have a clear head on a bike.... it is heaven sent....

One of my goals by the time I graduate is to make my own sequential tailights for my Mustang. I gotta do it now haha. This is motivation!

Where did you get hired? I would like to work for Duke or GE.

i did this but then my turn signals appear to be running very hot

Details? Front or rear? In the time that the turn signal is on (between blinks) there shouldn't be any significant heat buildup - I mean they're on less than a second at a time, then off for that same amount of time.

If you're referring to the front "parking/running" lamp operation - the continuously on operation, then that's where it would help to know if you're referring to LED bulbs or regular. Regular bulbs will gennerate head, as do more powerful LED's. There's not a lot of way to change this. As long as that LED was designed to run off a 12v input, it should be fine.

How hot is "very"? Can you hold your finger on it continuously, only for a few seconds, or"hell no I'm not touching that thing - it sizzles in the rain"?

Yea I wouldnt try this with regular filament bulbs...lol I've heard some reports of melting the housing on some of them.

It should be done on LED's only! If they are poorly designed (Cheap) LED signals then they might get hot still, I wouldn't recommend using them either.

Hey sorry for being so vague but 1 I just twisted the wires no cap. 2 they are mr11 12v 20w bulbs. 3 the bulbs can be touched but they are hot after only like 1 minute of running and they remain hot for like 5 minutes after being off.the last thing is that the back lights do the same thing when I cross the front 2

upgraded my 05 cbr to a 2010 and used this guide again to get my blinkers, and mirrors (led) to function as running lights. only this time i used crimps and heat shrink instead of soldering. worked like a charm.

Red, on a 2010 do i need a custom relay if i want to take the rear stock lights off and replace them with some sort of integrated LED style? or will it just blink fast, cause on my 05 it blinked so fast that they didnt appear to blink at all.

they arent LED lights?

I picked up a 99 f4 and the PO put in some shotty wiring after they downed the bike. Just twisted and taped the wires together. Id love to redo the wiring but the only thing is I cant find the connections (color coded would be sweet!). I need both male /female ends. I have a bunch of molex and other computer connections from my rendering rig but I'm anal and like to fix it right when I can. any help would be great.

Don't fret over getting the same oem connectors unless you really want them. On my front sigs, since the oem connectors were long gone, I wired Indy Leads to the factory harness & wired my LED sigs w/ Indy Lead connectors. Makes it easy plug/unplug-n-go. That's really convenient & easy when I go to the track & need to remove the signals. I just unplug & go. When putting them back on, just plug back in. Works great.

Nevertheless, if you want oem style connectors, try here... OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha . I've used these guys in the past for my oem-type connector needs.