I need some advice, Imade itto torque down the 5 bolt that holdeverything together. When I went to torque them down to9 ft pounds Itook off the head of the bolt. So after I threw my torque wrenchatmy tool box I checked the amountof torque on the wrench and adjusted down to five lbs and snapped offa second bolt. any idea what I am doing wrong, do I need to buy stronger bolts. Any help would be great. Sorry if i posted this in the wrong area

 

Lawless, The most likely explanation for your experience is a lack of familiarity with your torque wrench. IF YOU ARE USING A TORQUE WRENCH SIMILAR TO THE ONE FEATURED IN THE DEMONSTRATION PHOTO...the desired torque setting is attained when the wrench is turned until you hear and feel a "click". Its not a dramatic event so you really have to be paying attention. If you miss the "click , you inevitably keep tightening waiting for some sign you're there, until the head twists off the bolt. 9 ft./lbs is such a light torque setting, you'd have to expect the "click" right away, probably within or soon after 1 full turn past finger tight. The fact that you twisted off a second bolt at the 5 ft./lb setting tells me you probably missed the "click" signal both times.

P.S. Don't feel bad... nearly everyone I know has done the same thing when they first got one of these torque wrenches.

[hr]

 

Holycrap..... Great DEMO. How'd you like to tackle a valve adjustment lesson???

 

Thanks for the help guys.
[&o]It was the torque wreck, there was two at my job and i took the one been returned after it did the exact samething to the workers in our plant.[&o]but I got my girl on the road and everything isfine. Now I need to know how to adjust the clutchcable? any taker

 

Awesome write up, very informative[sm=yeahsmile.gif]

 

lol ill give it a shot sometime, i just need to put the cylinder head for that motor back together.


edit:

lmao reason why i was so quick to say yes being, when i took off the cylinder head, i took the camshafts out as well, and wasnt thinking, and set the heads upside down on a table, and like 5 of the valve lifters and the shims that go inside fell out, and i had no clue which went where (F**K F**K F**K!!!!) so now they're on, but not in the right spots, lol..... so i HAVE to do valve adjustments anyway. but like you guys saw, that engine isnt in a bike, so all the hard work is done (you can do valve adjustments with the engine in the bike, but, uh, im not gonna, lol)

 

what happens if i mix the order up that the plates are removed from my bike.
oops

 

lol DAMN IT CRPY! i'll take mine apart again to tell you what order they go in, the only difference are the 2 outside fiberdiscs, one's got smaller contact patches, the other are larger.

 

Holycrap...I really liked your demo on clutch replacement. Turns out my F-3's a little different. The "center clutch" which is the same thing as the pressure plate, has a large nut which has to be removed before accessing the clutch discs. The manual calls for the use of a "clutch center holder tool" without explaining what it does. The large center clutch retaining nut is right there, seemingly accessable. Is there a reason why I can't slip a socket over it and remove it without a fancy tool. Also, should the transmission start off this replacement proceedure in gear, so wrenching doesn't turn the crankshaft? Wanted to ask before I got in too deep. I'll take an answer from anyone who knows what they're talking about. Thanx! cbrpilot

 

yea, there is a similar tool for the 600rr, and what its used for is to keep the center from spinning inside the outer when you try to crank on the nut that hold the clutch basket in place (or the pressure plate in your case) like you said. what i would do is put the bike on a rearstand while in gear, and turn the rear tire (as much as you can i guess, itll be pretty tough, lol) and if it that center nut turns with the wheel, id do one of 2 things:

a. set the bike back down, still in gear, and press on the rear brake and crank away

b. use an impact wrench (gotta love air tools)