Just a FYI for the guys with F-2's and F3's. In my last post, I incorrectly called the "clutch center" a pressure plate. On some configurations, a pressure plate can be found on top (frontmost) of the clutch basket. On F-2's and F3's the pressure plate threads through the center clutch from the back ,and is the part that the clutch plates, friction discs and springs attach to. Two separate parts.

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On a better note I'd like to say to the F2 and F3 owners that the clutch disc replacement can be done by most of you ( I completed this proceedure today), even without the $75 "center clutch holding tool" recommended in the service manual, and without an impact wrench. Here's how I did it. Instead of the $75 "CCHT", I fabricated a simple substitute tool using a 4 inch washer with a hole large enough to permit a 26mm socket to travel through (in order to access the lock nutholding thecenterclutch unit). After removing the outer engine clutch cover (carefully, you'll need a gasket, although you can make a new one if you need to), I removed the 4 screws holding on the clutch lifter plate (this is the X shaped plate that attaches to the 4 springs). Before taking anything else off I used the lifter plate as a template to locate 4 holes I'd need to drill in order to install the big washer exactly where the lifter plate used to be. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit for the holes. Then with the holes drilled , install the big washer where the lifter plate was and tighten the 4 bolts to "snug only". This will compress the inner components of the clutchallowing you to install the socket and breaker bar to remove the locknut. Remember to "UNSTAKE" the lock nut using a small flathead screwdriver or nail to bend up the indentation.Now your ready, put the bike in first gear, have a friend sit on the bike and stand on the rear brake pedal and attach the breaker bar and loosen! Use apiece of scrap wood in the spokes if you need help holding the rear wheel stationary, don't rely on the transmission to prevent the crank from rotating. Once the lock nut is removed you can remove your "big washer" and slide out the center clutch, discs, plates and pressure plate. When you're done installing the new discs, reinstall the springs and the "big washer" (snugged down), and reinstall the big lock nut.Restake lock nut indention. Again , 1st gear, friend on the bike and rear brake locked.... now torque down to 80 ft/lbs. Remove "big washer", reinstall lifterplate and torque lifter plate bolts to 9 ft/lbs. (which is about 1/4 of a turn past finger tight). Now you're home free, No impact wrench and no $75 center clutch holder tool.
Cost... new kevlar clutch disc set on Ebay $40, (1) 4 inch washer estimated cost 75 cents, and(1) six pack for me and my accomplice $6.95. Total $48.70
Truthfully, I believe this "CCHT" could befabricated outof 1/4 inch plywood in a 5"x5" square if you really had to, as long as the center hole was slightly bigger than the diameter of the socket needed to access the big clutch lock nut. Good luck to all!

 

The f4i uses a center bolt like f2 & f3's ? or its mostly like the RR? (just removing the springs will remove the pressure plate)

 

I'm looking in to changeing to Full Synthetic. In doing so i was going to change the clutch plates to kevlar. My bikes been running 10w-40 for at leaste a year.
Will i get a noticible incr4ase in performance at the starting line. I/m a street biker by nature not a tracker.

Is changing the clutch easy?

 

I could use some help how do you get off the clutch cover? i heard people say you take a rubber sledge hammer but i want to be sure cause i don't want to break my engine case or anything. I also mixed up the new clutch plates i bought so if you could tell me the order they go in that'd be great.

 

Have to say excellent write up on the clutch replacement.
I just did this to my F4 and have a comment...
Your third pic shows the friction plate in the shallow slot...
The forth/rest ofpic(s) shows all of the friction plate tabs in the deep slots...
Mymanual says that the last one, the one against the pressure plate, its tabs should be in the shallowset of slots.
Just wanted to let you know before you go and put that extra engine in a bike or do anything with it.

 

CAN SOMEONE MAKE THIS A STICKY? I hate it when good threads like this disappear when I'm trying to fix my bike a few months from now.

 

wish you had pics on the f3 clutch tool and install, also what about the bearings mines starting to make noise when the clutch is engaged but stops when i disengage it, I'm guessing bearing, any other tips would be great

signed shadetree

 

there needs to be a write up with pics for the F2 lol, i got my all together and the things still will not ingage and i cannot figure out why.,i have been looking at this thread and the maual i downloaded and cannot for the life of me figure out what i did wrong.

 

If you're putting the new clutch packs in, PLEASE REMEMBER to soak the fiber discs in the engine oil(or whatever oil you used for tranny) for at least 20 mins...otherwise, your new discs will be dry and the moment you start the bike it's gonna wear fast

 

This is a great write up. thanks,... do i really need a new gasket if the old one looks good?!?! just a thought. i replaced it anyway. already bought it.