Battery Life
#24
12-07-2008, 08:55 AM
RE: Battery Life & Charging
Hope someone finds the following useful... if I'd followed it I wouldn't have stuffed a couple of batteries from overcharging in one case, and undercharging (neglect) in the other.
Summary of battery charging info from 2004 Yuasa Technical Manual
This applies to 12 volt Sealed VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries (like YTX9-BS, YT12A-BS). VRLA also known as SLA (sealed lead-acid).
Gearloose
23 Dec 08
Summary of battery charging info from 2004 Yuasa Technical Manual
This applies to 12 volt Sealed VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries (like YTX9-BS, YT12A-BS). VRLA also known as SLA (sealed lead-acid).
- Check voltage with multi-meter (ok, basic stuff, I know).
- Deep discharge (<11.5v) or prolonged discharge (<12.5v) leads to harmful sulfation, which may not be recoverable.
- Keep battery above 75% charge (12.5v) - use a battery stabiliser if necessary (it's a lot cheaper than a new battery).
- From full charge, natural discharge to 75% is 5 months at 25°C/77°F. At 40°C/104°F, it is 2.5 months. This assumes clean top, no other drain on battery. For your imperfect bike, check the battery monthly or more frequently.
- Temperatures over 54°C/130°F kill batteries.
- Occasional use (couple of times a week) or daily short trips (under 15 or 20 miles/week) will probably not keep the battery charged, because the bike's charging system doesn't have enough time to make up for losses from normal starting and self-discharge. Battery will need charging maybe every month or so, depending on temperature.
- Recommended max current for normal charging: 1/10 of battery ampere-hour (AH) rating. Higher than this ("quick charge") will shorten battery life.
- First charge of a new battery after activation is a special case and needs higher charge rate, printed on battery.
- If the battery is under 25% (11.5V), this is also a special case. See info on charging below.
- Charge times below are for constant current charger @ 0.1x AH rating of battery. Taper charger with same max current will take 2x as long. Trickle charger time is roughly in proportion to constant current charger: so if 1.0A charge takes 1 hour, 250mA trickle charge will take 4 hours.
- 100% charged (12.8 -13.0V) No action needed. Check every month.
- 75% charged (12.5V) Keep above this. Give slight charge for 3-6 hours to bring to full charge.
- 50% charged (12.0V) This is too low for longevity Charge time: 5-11 hours.
- 25% charged (11.5V) Charge for about 13 hours.
- 0% - 25% charged (<11.5V) Internal resistance may be too high to charge normally, so a high voltage charge may be necessary. Raise voltage initially (25V max) for up to 5 mins. If ammeter shows no change in current flow during initial 5 mins of high voltage charge, battery is stuffed. After 5 mins at the high volts, reduce it so amps do not exceed battery's std charge (1/10 of AH rating). Charge for about 20 hours.
- After charging to 100% (12.8 -13V) , let battery stand for 1-2 hrs:
- voltage should be at least 12.8V;
- if the voltage drops to 12.0 V or less, battery is stuffed.
- Stop charging if the battery becomes really warm to touch. Let it cool down 6 - 12 hours and resume charging.
- Charging voltage from bike regulator should be 14.0 - 14.8 V.
- Load testing is best indicator of battery health.
- Low-load test: turn on the bike's lights and read voltage at the battery. If below 11.5v DC with the lights on, charge.
- High-rate discharge test: (best test of battery condition under a starting load) Use a load testing device that has an adjustable load. Apply a load of three times the ampere-hour rating. At 14 seconds into the test, should have at least 10.5v. If the reading's low, charge.
Gearloose
23 Dec 08
Last edited by Gearloose; 03-17-2009 at 04:23 AM. Reason: New forum system stuffed up the line breaks - trying to fix it to make it readable.
#25
01-15-2009, 09:14 PM
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RE: Battery Life
ORIGINAL: TBFGhost
Just an FYI, the "Battery Tenders" you can get at Wal-mart for $18.98 are great. They do a 1.5amp charge and switch to float mode by themselfs. They come with clamps and a quick disconnect you can wire right to the battery. I wired up my battery and tucked the connection up near the edge of the tail fairing on my F4i. I just leave the charger plugged in near where I park the bike and everytime I get off the bike, I plugthe charger intoto the bike itself.I also got one hooked up to my buddies RR. It took my weaker older battery and refreshed it after a day on float mode....I saw the same charger at Advance Auto for $32.98 in the same box and all. My Wal-Mart had about 20 of them in with their automotive batteries....
Ace Has Them as Well
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(wu2xmkym04hjof55v1gibl45)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=80525
Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SEM.../dp/B0009IBJAS
Just an FYI, the "Battery Tenders" you can get at Wal-mart for $18.98 are great. They do a 1.5amp charge and switch to float mode by themselfs. They come with clamps and a quick disconnect you can wire right to the battery. I wired up my battery and tucked the connection up near the edge of the tail fairing on my F4i. I just leave the charger plugged in near where I park the bike and everytime I get off the bike, I plugthe charger intoto the bike itself.I also got one hooked up to my buddies RR. It took my weaker older battery and refreshed it after a day on float mode....I saw the same charger at Advance Auto for $32.98 in the same box and all. My Wal-Mart had about 20 of them in with their automotive batteries....
Ace Has Them as Well
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(wu2xmkym04hjof55v1gibl45)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=80525
Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SEM.../dp/B0009IBJAS
#26
01-25-2009, 02:32 AM
RE: Battery Life
My first bike was a 1985 Honda Nighthawk 650. before you laugh about that, realize that was an inline 4 sport cruiser with a 10,500 RPM redline, pretty much the foreunner of the CBR 600 engine. Anyway, the battery wouldn't take a charge unless the RPM's got above 2500. Not sure if this equates to our modern sportbikes, but all these problems? Keep the R's out of the basement and maybe it'ill start better. Just a thought, not sayin' anyone rides like that, just don't start 'er up and let 'er idle thinkin' its gonna charge the battery, like a car, it won't!
#27
05-11-2009, 12:33 PM
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ok about the battery does it just start the bike or does it also help the bike while the bike is running.with the electrics like the fuel pump and lights that kind of stuff..if i ride my bike every day it stays charged but if i let it sit 2-days it barley starts i also noticed my battery has a piecs of tape on top were it was cracked and now that i have noticed it the bike runs like crap thats why i ask the ????about the battery and does it help run bike after it is running..hope someone has the answear thxs guys
#28
05-11-2009, 01:31 PM
The bike runs off of the battery. The stator charges the battery, regulated by the RR.
Read up and do the test as described.
Personally, I would replace a cracked battery even knowing nothing else.
Read up and do the test as described.
Personally, I would replace a cracked battery even knowing nothing else.
#30
11-28-2009, 07:48 PM
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Battery Life
Well i now have a new Battery and ALternator, battery was a warranty exchange the alternator was 89 rebuilded. I did not have the time to put it on so local garage charger 60 to install took about 1 hour for them.Shows 14.4 volts with light and fan running.