Which way do wheel bearing face out?
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Which way do wheel bearing face out?
Hi all,
I was installing new wheel bearings today on my 01 F4i and as I understand typically you're supposed to install them with the stamped markings facing OUT from the wheel. (The F4i service manual doesn't say anything about it)
I didn't realize until after installing the first bearing that my bearings have the manufacture/size code stamped on BOTH sides and a small "NC" (NaChi??) stamped on just one side on the inner race. I only saw the size code at first and thought that was the correct side.
Other than the small "NC" stamp, they look the same on both sides
My question is : Does it matter which way these bearings go in? If I have to get a new bearing and re do this side, I rather do it now before I install the rest of them.
I did install the right side first as per the service manual.
Thanks in advance
I was installing new wheel bearings today on my 01 F4i and as I understand typically you're supposed to install them with the stamped markings facing OUT from the wheel. (The F4i service manual doesn't say anything about it)
I didn't realize until after installing the first bearing that my bearings have the manufacture/size code stamped on BOTH sides and a small "NC" (NaChi??) stamped on just one side on the inner race. I only saw the size code at first and thought that was the correct side.
Other than the small "NC" stamp, they look the same on both sides
My question is : Does it matter which way these bearings go in? If I have to get a new bearing and re do this side, I rather do it now before I install the rest of them.
I did install the right side first as per the service manual.
Thanks in advance
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 360
Likes: 19
From: Los Angeles, CA
Thanks! Glad I don't have to re do it
For future reference if anyone has the same Q and happens on this thread: I also googled my bearings Nachi 0BCS26NSE are single row deep groove bearings which can be loaded both directions and look totally symmetrical in the diagram Bearing 20BCS26NSE (NACHI).
For future reference if anyone has the same Q and happens on this thread: I also googled my bearings Nachi 0BCS26NSE are single row deep groove bearings which can be loaded both directions and look totally symmetrical in the diagram Bearing 20BCS26NSE (NACHI).
Welcome crew
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 918
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From: Winchester, VA
Yeah, that definitely would have had me OCDing until I knew for sure! lol
A few questions for you:
How many miles did you get out of the previous ones? How did you notice it was time to change? Or were you just doing preventative maintenance?
A few questions for you:
How many miles did you get out of the previous ones? How did you notice it was time to change? Or were you just doing preventative maintenance?
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 360
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Sorry for the late reply!
This front bearing came with the bike when I bought her used with 40k on the clock. When I noticed they out she was 75k miles on her. So all I can say is it lasted at least 35k miles. The rear wheel bearing that came with the bike are still fine last time I checked.
I like to check the bearings any time the wheel is off. Unlike all the other times I checked, this time the bearing was super hard/impossible to turn. From what I know, the bearing should turn smoothly by hand with no freeplay/sideplay, no tight spots, and no crunch/grinding sounds. I think I only noticed because it was so different from all the other times I checked. So if you don't already, I think it's a good idea to check your wheel bearings often, so at least you learn how they're supposed to feel.
While changing bearings, I also decided to do bearings on my spare rear rim that I bought a while back and found out that it's trash. The bearing was unusually hard to get out and when I did I discovered the previous owner had hammered the lip of the bearing bore, probably with a flat head, WARPING the surface the bearing sits on. No wonder it was hard to get out. But, from the outside it looked fine and spun by hand fine so I don't know how I could have known it was bad. It would probably have caused early bearing failure had I not noticed. A hunnid down the drain ugh....
This front bearing came with the bike when I bought her used with 40k on the clock. When I noticed they out she was 75k miles on her. So all I can say is it lasted at least 35k miles. The rear wheel bearing that came with the bike are still fine last time I checked.
I like to check the bearings any time the wheel is off. Unlike all the other times I checked, this time the bearing was super hard/impossible to turn. From what I know, the bearing should turn smoothly by hand with no freeplay/sideplay, no tight spots, and no crunch/grinding sounds. I think I only noticed because it was so different from all the other times I checked. So if you don't already, I think it's a good idea to check your wheel bearings often, so at least you learn how they're supposed to feel.
While changing bearings, I also decided to do bearings on my spare rear rim that I bought a while back and found out that it's trash. The bearing was unusually hard to get out and when I did I discovered the previous owner had hammered the lip of the bearing bore, probably with a flat head, WARPING the surface the bearing sits on. No wonder it was hard to get out. But, from the outside it looked fine and spun by hand fine so I don't know how I could have known it was bad. It would probably have caused early bearing failure had I not noticed. A hunnid down the drain ugh....
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