Turn signal wiring help
#1
Turn signal wiring help
I just bought a 2001 CBR F4i with somewhat custom wiring for the headlight and turn signals. The bike has LED turn signals in the front and regular in the back.
When I got the bike the rears were burnt out and the front ones were not flashing, just staying lit the whole time.
Where I am now is I've bought new bulbs for the rear and they light up when the ignition is turned on (aka running lights I guess?), same with the front. When I turn the signal switch to either side, the opposite front and rear bulbs turn OFF (is this normal or should they stay lit while the other side flashes?) and the bulbs on the side I switched on stay on but don't flash.
The bike has an LED turn signal relay. Is this even supposed to work with regular bulbs at all?
I'm thinking maybe the LED relay is bad but how can I test this? I hooked up a voltmeter to the relay and when the signal switch isn't switched to either side, the voltage is 12V. When switched to either side, the voltage stays a constant 12V. Since it's a relay, is the voltage supposed to fluctuate when I test it this way?
I'm sorry if the description is a bit confusing... I'm a bit confused myself as to what's going on.
Any ideas?
When I got the bike the rears were burnt out and the front ones were not flashing, just staying lit the whole time.
Where I am now is I've bought new bulbs for the rear and they light up when the ignition is turned on (aka running lights I guess?), same with the front. When I turn the signal switch to either side, the opposite front and rear bulbs turn OFF (is this normal or should they stay lit while the other side flashes?) and the bulbs on the side I switched on stay on but don't flash.
The bike has an LED turn signal relay. Is this even supposed to work with regular bulbs at all?
I'm thinking maybe the LED relay is bad but how can I test this? I hooked up a voltmeter to the relay and when the signal switch isn't switched to either side, the voltage is 12V. When switched to either side, the voltage stays a constant 12V. Since it's a relay, is the voltage supposed to fluctuate when I test it this way?
I'm sorry if the description is a bit confusing... I'm a bit confused myself as to what's going on.
Any ideas?
Last edited by Jave; 09-05-2009 at 01:20 PM.
#2
I would like the answere to this question also since im in the same boat.
2001 F4i with aftermarket wiring. the guy has a nest of spliced and split wires under the rear seat. my front LED's work sometimes when i play with the switch and if i hook up my rear then nothing works.
if i knew which wires where which that this maniac ran i would love to re wire everything with new fuses and relays.
2001 F4i with aftermarket wiring. the guy has a nest of spliced and split wires under the rear seat. my front LED's work sometimes when i play with the switch and if i hook up my rear then nothing works.
if i knew which wires where which that this maniac ran i would love to re wire everything with new fuses and relays.
#3
I got this sort of figured out. I scrapped the LEDs and the LED relay and got a regular relay and regular turn signals instead and everything works now. I can tell you the wire colors which might help:
Front Right side:
- Solid Light Blue is for the right side turn signal
- Striped Light blue/white is for the right side turn signal running lights
- Green is ground
Front Left side:
- Solid Orange is for the left side turn signal
- Striped Orange/white is for the left side turn signal running lights
- Green is ground
Rear Right side:
- Solid Light Blue is for the right side turn signal
- Green is ground
Rear Left side:
- Solid Orange is for the left side turn signal
- Green is ground
Wires to the relay:
- Grey
- Striped white/green
I don't understand what difference is between "turn signal wire" and "turn signal running light wire" but stock you have those two wires for each side + a ground making 3 wires total per side on the front. The rear only has two wires it seems.
It seems most aftermarket stuff is only made for a 2 wire system which means you need to combine the "turn signal wire" (solid blue or orange) and the "turn signal running light wire" (striped blue/white or orange/white) and twist them together. This I think results in your turn signal lights being on all the time (a.k.a running lights) which doesn't look too bad.
I spent a whole two days messing with this stuff so ask if you have any more questions and maybe I can answer them.
Front Right side:
- Solid Light Blue is for the right side turn signal
- Striped Light blue/white is for the right side turn signal running lights
- Green is ground
Front Left side:
- Solid Orange is for the left side turn signal
- Striped Orange/white is for the left side turn signal running lights
- Green is ground
Rear Right side:
- Solid Light Blue is for the right side turn signal
- Green is ground
Rear Left side:
- Solid Orange is for the left side turn signal
- Green is ground
Wires to the relay:
- Grey
- Striped white/green
I don't understand what difference is between "turn signal wire" and "turn signal running light wire" but stock you have those two wires for each side + a ground making 3 wires total per side on the front. The rear only has two wires it seems.
It seems most aftermarket stuff is only made for a 2 wire system which means you need to combine the "turn signal wire" (solid blue or orange) and the "turn signal running light wire" (striped blue/white or orange/white) and twist them together. This I think results in your turn signal lights being on all the time (a.k.a running lights) which doesn't look too bad.
I spent a whole two days messing with this stuff so ask if you have any more questions and maybe I can answer them.
Last edited by Jave; 09-08-2009 at 08:56 AM.
#4
The running light wire is a constant +12v supply to the signal. The turn signal wire is the switching +12v supply from the flasher relay. When aftermarket front signals are installed, the majority of them do not include a running light, so only the signal wire is used. I've seen more people F this up it's not even funny. You're bikes P.O. had a flashing relay installed that was designed for LED's because he didn't like the faster flash rate when the LED signals were installed. The stock flasher relays depend on current draw to make them flash (hence the faster flash rate when a bulb goes out). Now, installing LED's (which happen to draw significantly less current than incandescent bulbs) increases the flash rate because of the low current draw. Personally, I like it better that way, I think they are more visible.
DO NOT TWIST THE RUNNING LIGHT AND SIGNAL LIGHT WIRES TOGETHER. JUST CUT THE RUNNING LIGHT WIRE AND TAPE IT OFF DECENT.
DO NOT TWIST THE RUNNING LIGHT AND SIGNAL LIGHT WIRES TOGETHER. JUST CUT THE RUNNING LIGHT WIRE AND TAPE IT OFF DECENT.
#5
Is there any harm in twisting them together though? I think I tried without twisting them together and it didn't work at all although I can't rememeber now.
#6
If you twist them together, they will not flash. Yeah it will work if they are not twisted together, they are both powered from the same fuse (c) but run through two completely different sets of contacts, (running lights-key switch) - (signal light-flasher relay).
#7
I have them twisted together right now and they do flash (they just stay on when not flashing as opposed to not lit.) I was just wondering if there was any harm (as in too much current or causing the bulbs to blow etc) in doing it.
#8
Looks like you're right, the running light supply will drop for whatever side signal is on. In theory it shouldn't matter then having them connected, as only one contact will be closed at any given time. Unless just for a m/s or 2 both contacts are closed, then something goofy might happen with current flow?
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