Q's about valve adjustment
#1
Q's about valve adjustment
OK I ride a '93 600 F2 and I was thinking about doing the valve adjustment myself. Highs here in TN are only reaching 50 degrees, so riding season is almost over. I figure I have a couple months to figure this out. With all that said, here are my questions:
I have a Clymer manual that I am referring to BTW. On page 91, The text states that the firing order is 1,2,3,4 (left to right), but the diagram on page 90 shows the firing order to be 1,2,4,3... which is correct?
Also, it states to align the T mark on the pulse generator to the index mark on the generator cover. At this point, the "IN" and "EX" marks on the camshaft gears should align with the upper cylinder head surface. If they don't, the book says to rotate the engine 360 deg. clockwise until the marks align as shown. Do I rotate the engine by turning the pulse generator bolt, or is there another way I should do it? And, if the marks didn't line up the first time, why would just turning the engine make them line up? Is this because when the T is lined up with the index, and "IN" and "EX" are showing, cylinder number 1 is ready to be checked? I assume if T is lined up with the index, and "IN" and "EX" aren't showing that cylinder 3 is in position (or cylinder 4, the book has a typo!)?
I have a Clymer manual that I am referring to BTW. On page 91, The text states that the firing order is 1,2,3,4 (left to right), but the diagram on page 90 shows the firing order to be 1,2,4,3... which is correct?
Also, it states to align the T mark on the pulse generator to the index mark on the generator cover. At this point, the "IN" and "EX" marks on the camshaft gears should align with the upper cylinder head surface. If they don't, the book says to rotate the engine 360 deg. clockwise until the marks align as shown. Do I rotate the engine by turning the pulse generator bolt, or is there another way I should do it? And, if the marks didn't line up the first time, why would just turning the engine make them line up? Is this because when the T is lined up with the index, and "IN" and "EX" are showing, cylinder number 1 is ready to be checked? I assume if T is lined up with the index, and "IN" and "EX" aren't showing that cylinder 3 is in position (or cylinder 4, the book has a typo!)?
#2
RE: Q's about valve adjustment
Its for a 600RR but the steps are quite similar. Maybe it'll help:
http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/248256.aspx
http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/248256.aspx
#3
RE: Q's about valve adjustment
On my 1000F, the firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3, but you have to check the valves as outlined in the book.The cams turn at 1/2 speed of the crank. So the #1 piston will come up twice to one revolution of the cams. If the piston is coming up on compression stroke, the intake and exhaust valves will be closed at TDC and the valve clearance can be checked. If the piston is coming up on exhaust stroke, the exhaust valves will be open at TDC (although there will be a spark!). That is why the book says to check the position marks on the cams.
#4
RE: Q's about valve adjustment
I know the valves have to be in the correct position to check the clearance. I think I understand about all the marks and the cams and stuff, but I need to know for sure in which order they fire. If sitting on the bike, #1 should be at the far left, then #2, then which is next? If I follow the instructions in the book to check #1, then rotate the motor 180 deg. then check #2, then rotate 180 deg. again should I just check the next cylinder in line? Or do I have to do the one on the far right and then come back to the other one? Thanks for the help.
#5
RE: Q's about valve adjustment
On the 1000F, when #1 piston is at TDC on compression stroke, I can check #1 intake and exhaust valves, #2 exhaust, and #3 intake. Then I rotate the crank counterclockwise one full turn until at TDC again and check #4 intake and exhaust, #3 exhaust, and #2 intake. On mine, I'm also adjusting any at the same time because it has threaded adjusters. If your F2 uses shims, you have to record each valve, then take out the cams to swap shims if any need to be adjusted.
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