Here is an update.

I pulled my bike from the shop but get this... They cleaned the carbs ($350) and only charged me 1 hour of diagonstic labor. That shop was really cool for doing that. I will take my bike back there any day except I still have the same problem. I'm taking this to another shop where they will swap outtheCDI and see what happens. I'll keep posting.Please post any input.

 

I swapped out the CDI. No change.

 

If a bike throttle position sensor is similar to one on a car it will cause the bike to sputter and such when you reach a dead spot. That doesn't explain why you can't blow past that point though while riding, but you should be able to test with a multimeter.

I wonder what would happen if you tried to ride the bike without the filter in it? Maybe leave the filter cover off so it can get all the air it wants? Check with testing equip the ignitionadvance circuit and make sure coils are within spec? Ignition pulse generator?

I woul say maybe the wrong jets were installed, but you cleaned the carbs after the problem started. One more thing as I just looked at my book and poor high speed performance could be faulty ignition timing. (pulse generator)

Good luck as i would be killing myself trying to get that thing fixed.

 

Check Cylinder compression, Valves and cam. anything odd in your oil? Gas, antifreeze?

 

Are you sure its a Honda cause that thing acts like a Kawasaki, lol.

 

here's an idea. sell the bike as-is, get your money back from the shop and return all the parts you just bought, and use all the proceeds to buy a new 600rr.

 

updates?

 

Thank you guys so much for all of your imput. I fixed the problem and I will give the best information I can give about how and why.

I owe a lot of thanks to Oceanside Motorcycle Supply in Oceanside, CA. Without their help I would have probably thrown a flare in the tank and walk away. Seriously, these mechanics and owners went way beyond what any shop would have or should have done. Their mechanics are top notch and I can't say enough. Here is what I found out to be the problem.

The air vent solenoid/EvapCAV solenoid(Direct Air Intake System D.A.I.)gets supplied fresh/ram air by a tube located in the front on the front fairing. It was missing the scoops that hold it in place. They fell downand was not getting ram air. This needs explaining.

The carb gets ram air from the airbox. It is air with pressure from the speed you travel. Meaning the faster you go the more air is forced in the airbox and then the carbs. Should be common sense right? Not as easy as it seems when you also have to supply the carbs with the same pressure in the bowls. I'll try to explain.

The ram air is forcing and creating different pressure from ambient air. The bowls and floats and jets need the same pressure(asthe ram ) in the airbox/carbairhorn. A change in pressure, restrictedair flowor introduced ambient pressurein the D.A.I. will cause thebowls to drain and not replenish with normal usuage. That is why I was able to get a good run through first gearbut not getmuchfaster in second, third etc. I was soconcerned with the tac that I didn't notice it was speed that was causing this. It was starving for gas because of the difference of pressure in the D.A.I.

Aftera monthhere is what happened. I think I've tried everything. I trouble shot everything I could think of. I checked the fuel and all the components. I even swapped out the fuel pump relay just for the hell of it. (bet you didn't know the fuel pump had a relay. I didn't either). I checked the emissions. I closed off emission. I checked all the electrical. Yes, I rung out the whole system pretty much. Everything I could ring out except the CDI (computer). Instead of cheching that with heat and read out I replaced it with two different known goodcdi's. I pretty much took every piece of suggestions given at this sight. Yes I did compression test too. 190,195,165,200. Almost did the valves for the hell of it. Pulse generator checked out too. You name it brother! Ignition relay R&R (remove and replace) Air solenoid R&R. Somebody make a suggestion because I'll bet you I already checked it. Anyway, It was a silly solution to major problem. I used two tie wraps to secure the hoses of the D.A.I. in direct ram air.

One important part I forgot to mention. I had finally got in touch with an important man in motorcycles. Curt Jordan of Jordan Engineering. He does not take people off the street. His main job is to write the manuals we use to fix our bikes. Pretty smart guy and very nice too. He hooked my bike up to the Dyno and found out my bike does 145mph+ with no problem. Also with the information was able to deduce that my bike was fine in a simulated road condition but no dice on road test. With the amount of unspent fuel on the dyno and the complete opposite on the road we were or should I say HEfigured outitneeded ram air to cause the problem. It was easy after that.

For those who havea simular problem and it feels like a carb problem please go through the norm with procedure.Check all and everything you can. Remember that disconnecting the air vent solenoid will not fix the problem. FYI,when the airvent solenoid goes out it will go out in the open position.

The carb needs the sameair pressure as the main air intake. D.A.I.

 

I was reading your problems and your solution. I have a simliar problem with my F3 right now. Driving at around 50 the bike cuts off and dies, once i try to turn it back on it will keep cranking but never turn over. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, r/r, cleaned out the carbs and the idle jets and the problem still exists. I checked the electrical components and the battery is up to par and the alternator is fine as well. I'm wondering if it is something that simple. My front two tubes were disconnected, and i re-tied them onto the fairing with zip ties and connected the hoses all back together. Still the same problem, so i'm wondering is there a specific way the air tubes have to be arranged? I thought connecting the two independent nostrils to the main line would do the trick, yet it hasnt resolved the issue. Thank you for your write up, it was extremely detailed and specific. As of right now i'm very confused as to what the problem could be. it seems like a fuel problem, but my fuel components are clear. the fuel petcock, fuel filter and fuel pump and carbs are in working order. I cant help but think it is the RAM air, i did hear that under 12 mph the two front nostrils work, and over 12 mph it was the actual ram in the front of the airbox. i dont know if this is correct, but it makes sense that if there was air obstruction than that could lead to the problem. your response in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

 

The air system is very specific. If you have a California bike there is only a slight difference and that has to do with the emissions and the return line to from the evaporator tank. Those two breather tube work in the exact opposite of what you described. They are crucial to equalizing the forced airpressure and the pressure in the bowels of the carbs. Meaning as you go faster the ramair going into the trottlebody is increasing. So must the pressure in the bowls of the carb. Hence, thetwo breather tubes which go into the air solenoid then the bowls in the carbs. Do you have a manual? You can find a downloadable one on the site. Look up D.A.I. or direct air intake. Oh yeah, make sure that those two hoses are in the path of ram air and faced forward. Don't forget to check the air filters inline in the D.A.I. too.They have been known to cause the same problem. Keep me updated please.

JackRiddley
Ender
Rival Riderz
www.myspace.com/rivalriderz