Well then maybe I'll just leave it in in one piece I guess...and just replace the covers and some other stuff that's scuffed up on it.

 

Probably best.

Clean it up and paint it....or just clean it. Up to you.

 

By the sounds of it these other guys are much more experienced than me at bike mechanics, but they may have over shot your thoughts.. There is all kinds of stuff you can do to a motor for practice without ruining it.. It sounds as if you haven't really taken a motor apart.. Try just taking apart the top end, learn that before you work your way down to the crank, check your head, pistons, rods, I'm sure there is simple after market parts you can apply pretty easily, although I wouldn't recommend pulling a bottom end apart on something you want to keep, then again we all have to start somewhere.. Where about in Maine are you? I'm just north the border in NB and would be happy to help as much as I can..

And yes as a millwright I do understand my micrometers and 001" incriments

 

Good advice Demon, I've never pulled a motor or gearbox down on a bike or cage unless it needed it. Then when I did - although sometimes it took longer than I wanted - I am methodical and organised (friends would find that hard to believe!). Parts that look tricky are photographed before disassembly, wires are labelled clearly and each section is dismantled into its own parts tray, i.e. clutch into one tray, head and all associated parts into another etc. That way, there's no 'where'd this bolt come from?' when reassembly time arrives.

That and have the tools you need (or access to them) for the job at hand. Micrometers, dial indicators, V blocks etc. A bike lift , good quality sockets and spanners, parts washers, a compressor/air line. And the knowledge of how to use them correctly.

Cheers, SB

 

If you're really interested in learning, you might consider your local VoTech.
Start taking the classes and work your way up to using your engine as a class project.
That will give you the tools, and experienced help for a rather nominal cost.

If you really like it, it might even give you a new carreer choice.

But, trying the first time on your own, in your garage, can be a very frustrating
and expensive proposition.

As Demon noted, time tends to be your enemy, unless you are a real mutant and
throughly document and organize the tear-down.

I will give you kudos, for asking for advice first. I get really sad when I read about the
folks who just dive into the deep end, only to find the creek's dry.

Someone else's comment, "if you have to ask, you're not ready" is right on target,
as well. For a job of this complexity, you either already have an idea of what's involved,
or you need more time peeking over someone else's shoulder.

I never intend to discourage folks from learning and advancing their skills.
I just like to caution them about their approach, occasionaly.

Good luck, however you choose, and keep us in the loop.

Ern

 

I am currently rebuilding my F3 motor. The bike would slip out of second gear and I had a bad oil leak on the rear of the engine. If you really wanna know the inies and outies of your bike, here is what you're going to need. You will need a 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets with a nice range of metric sockets. Your 3/8 sockets should be from 8mm to 17mm or 18mm. The 1/2 sockets should be from 12mm to 34mm. A 1/4" ratchet and sockets are really nice to have for the really small bits like 6mm,7mm, and 8mm. You will need torque wrenches in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive. Try to make sure the ranges of the torque wrenches overlap a little. A 1/2" breaker bar is a knuckle saver!! You will need a allen key set that goes from 2mm to 12mm. A chain breaking and riveting tool is really nice to have in the box. If you're powder coating the swing arm, you'll need a press to remove the swing arm bearings. Trust me, a bearing puller will not remove them. Tried this years ago and destroyed a bearing puller. An pneumatic impact wrench is really nice to have, but you can use 1/2" electric one to do what you need to do. A nice set of combination wrenches ranging from 7mm to 34mm is a must! In addition to all this, I have a ton of specialized tools for servicing standard and inverted forks, shocks, spring compressors, brakes, and electrical. You might want to look into a ring compressor, but one can get by with fingers to install pistons.
The hardest part for repairing bottom end stuff is separating the cases. I say this because if you damage a mating surface, the engine will leak from the damage spot. I've welded together horizontal pullers so that nothing has to be stuck in between the mating surfaces. The haves are just pulled apart. You still have to use GREAT care to not bang around the mating surfaces. The cases are aluminum and the slightest little bump will damage the mating surface. Once you have the cases separated, the tranny will just fall out. Everything needs to go in the EXACT same place and EXACT same position from where it was removed!! This goes for the tranny, bearing caps, crank, rods, and pistons!! You must be EXTREMELY organized to keep things in order. You can throw whole pistons and rods into a large zip lock bag and write the number of the piston with a sharpie.
This little write up does not include all the stuff the has to be removed (clutch, side cases, exhaust, and electrical). It's just to give you an idea what sort of tools and organization you need to do a project of this nature. If you're someone who likes to throw things into a giant pile, then this is not a project you should take on.