Man - I know there are a handful of people here who swear by doing things, "only the right way with the right tools."

But if you've ever worked on cares, you know there are shortcuts around everything. You don't always need a special tool/s.

If you buy a chain with a clip-type master link, all you need to change it is the metric sockets you already, or should already, have, and a flat screwdriver. To get the old chain off simply usea Dremmel, and as stated earlier, pick a link, and start grinding down one of the rivets. Once that chain is off, it is literally as simple as changing a bicycle chain.

I bought a $70 tool for chains and it is collecting dust. I have changed my chain, and then thechains on two of my buddies bikes who didn't want to do it themselves. They won't pay me or anyone else to do it again after watching me though!

The biggest pain in the butt of the job is adjusting the rear tire afterwards. You don't need expensive pitbull stand, though they make the job even simpler. If you have a floor jack, there is a spot underneath the bike that is a nice "center" of the bike. Have a buddy hold the clip-ons while you try finding that sweet spot to jack it up. You only need it just off the ground, maybe a half inch.

This is of course AFTER you remove the rear wheel to change it's sprocket. Trust me though, if you have a buddy to hold the bike, you will find the sweet spot and once you do you'll see that you can shake the crap out of the bike and it won't tip. It'svery stable. You're not going to be torquing on anything anyway - just try it.

I had to learn this on my own and you can kind of tell if you're not in the sweet spot under the bike. But it is much easier to have a buddy help you.

From the moment you get the rear in the air, it's a matter of maybe 25 minutes to remove the wheel, change the rear sprocket, change the front sprocket and re-install the new chain. Just make sure your rear wheel is adjusted the same on each side so your wheel is straight. It's easy - there are adjusting marks on each side of the swingarm that make it easy to see. Make sure each side matches the other, then make your adjustments from there - turning each adjuster on the swingarm the same amount of turns as you go. Once your chain is at the right amount of slack, double check to make sure you're adjustment lines match on each side and you're done!

Doing it this way is safe, there is nothng wrong with doing it that way and will only cost you the amount of the chain and sprockets.

P.S. I've even been in reputable bike shops and watched them change a clip-type master link chain - guess what? They don't use any tools other than a very expensive bike lift.

 

camaro, as I said earlier many have found ways without using specialized tools (not all of which I would personally do). Yes, there are specialized tools for every specialized job. In some cases, its trivial to not get the specialized tool (e.g. many can get by without an oil filter wrench but chances are you have one). The choice is yours if you want to take "shortcuts". Just remember there are possible repercussions taking shortcuts.

FWIW, if there was a shop that couldn't bother to have the right tools, I would go to another shop.