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fuel and power problems from rebuilt carbs

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:12 PM
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ok justasquid I tried the water spray. Damn if the first cylinder exhaust was significantly cooler than the others. I checked the coils and spark wires and they were fireing, changes spark plugs and same results, checkes floats and rest of carbs to make sure. all good still the same. could it just be the carb settings, or not enough air. what the hell did I do for this kind of torment. what could it be guys. Im at a loss.
 
  #12  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:46 AM
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i wood take carbs off and re-check your build-up. Did you use sealant on the reassembly, or just the new o- rings from a kit? sealant can breakdown in the fuel bowl area and cause lots of problems. I know that it doesnt take but a small piece of anything to clog a jet or small port in carb. The good in this is you know exactly how to breakdown bike and remove carbs so it wont take but an hour to tear down and a quick check on carb#1 and you can rule other things out.
 
  #13  
Old 11-25-2009, 11:51 AM
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yup I took the carbs of and rechecked them all and recleaned everything. everything is in good shape. I did notice some sealant had stuck around the float bowl and was in the jets. after cleaning them the bike runs good and idele and revs right. though it does have hesitation on acceleration and it revs high before it starts to go, like it builds up speed and doesnt take off. the manual said it might be too lean wich makes sense to me. I dont know how to adjust it without adjusting the idle screws on the carbs. I dont see a pilot screw on here and if so would there be only one for all four carbs or one for each.
 
  #14  
Old 11-25-2009, 02:22 PM
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did you do a sync after rebuild? cause the bike will do eve3ything you described until you do a sync. just because you did not mess with the air/fuel mix screw doesnot mean you need not adjust. also during carb clean did you blow out all the little jets? there are some very small ports that alow a small amount of fuel for idle and responce. not being mean here, but if you did a half-a$$ clean job youll olny make things worse.
 
  #15  
Old 11-25-2009, 11:31 PM
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yes i did a synch and cleaned all the jets well. i cleaned the hell out of it trust me. only thing i can think is that when sync it i didnt set the suction high enough. so the manual says the 1 or first carb should have a constant suction or vacum pressure but when I adjust the screws the 1 carb changes too. any words of wisdom.
 
  #16  
Old 11-26-2009, 12:32 AM
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Check the air passages for blockage. After 4 years of sitting, you could have something (and people have reported pretty much everything, including animals) blocking the air passages.

After fixing my flat spot, right at the range you report yours), I started reading everything I could about my problem. Pretty much everything I've seen points to a lack of air for some reason at speed.

You said it happens at 5k rpm but take her out again an look a little closer. If it happens at higher RPM in lower gear but at around the same speed, that could be an indicator. Also if it happens at lower RPM (or almost stalls) if you short shift but around the same speed.
 
  #17  
Old 11-26-2009, 04:06 AM
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If you didnt clean the pilot jets, you need to do so. The pilot jets will be the main fuel supply to the engine until about 1/8 throttle, then the main jets become the main fuel supply. If I had to guess, thats the hesitation your experiencing. Check closely again and see if the hesitation is rpm sensative, or throttle input sensative. If its throttle sensative, then there is an issue in your carbs still. My guess is the pilot jets are too lean and the transition from the pilot jet to the main jet creates a quick lean spot so you get the hesitation.

The pilot jets should be located on the bottom side of the carb, right in front of the fuel bowl. There should be a recessed hole and there will be either a flat screw head, or a D shaped head which will require a special tool to remove the jets. if you do take them out to clean, before you do, count how many turns it takes to fully, ( but lightly), seat the jet. this will allow you to put the jets back at the same point they were removed. Most common would be between 1.5-2 turns out from fully seated.

Its also possible that you happen to have a set of carbs that have the pilot jets plugged. It is basically a thin aluminum cap that you can remove to adjust and clean the pilot jets.

It is important to get them cleaned as while you cleaned the carbs, the chances are pretty high that you pushed gunk into the ports of the pilot jets.

theres not a lot you can do about the number 1 carbs suction changing as you adjust the other carbs for sync. Adjusting any carb will change the rpms and therefore the vaccum is going to change as well. the best thing you can do is make the smallest changes possible. The number one carb is your baseline as its not ajustable, start with the carb that is the farthest out of sync and bring it closer to the baseline. Adjust the idle as needed to keep the number one cylinder pulling a decent amount of vaccum. If you have them close, it should be fine. they will not be perfect to each other. The engine pulses are constantly changing the vaccum so it would be near impossible to get them all exactly the same. If you can get them all within 5 percent of the baseline, you should be good to go.
 

Last edited by justasquid; 11-26-2009 at 04:13 AM.
  #18  
Old 11-26-2009, 10:22 AM
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actually that hesitation is from 1-5000 rpm it will rev up and get loud then build speed, but after it gets speed its good till i switch gears then it happens again.

thanks for the input. ill go back and check those things. ill try syncing it one more time and trying a few WAYS of doing it before i go to the pilots, but I have a nagging feeling thats what it is. I'll keep you updated. thanks
 
  #19  
Old 11-26-2009, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by c_o_l_d1
actually that hesitation is from 1-5000 rpm it will rev up and get loud then build speed, but after it gets speed its good till i switch gears then it happens again.

thanks for the input. ill go back and check those things. ill try syncing it one more time and trying a few WAYS of doing it before i go to the pilots, but I have a nagging feeling thats what it is. I'll keep you updated. thanks
Bro, i had a F2 that gave me similar issues years back and when i got fed up with it, a freind hangin out watched me tear it down and had me take out the idle jets and hold them up to the light and bingo , they were clogged, i missed this uppon cleaning the carbs. i took the smallest sewing needle my wife had and cleaned them out being careful not to open the port wider with the needle, just loosen the crap and then blew them clean.reassembled/synced and rode the **** out of it that day, problem solved. Also on my 900 RR , the first time i rebuilt the carbs on this bike i used a small amount of sealent to reasemble . this was the worst thing i could have done. the bike ran great for a week and thenstarted to have problems that got worse and worse, eventually i wood not even start. A brother here asked me if i had used sealent , and told me that was the problem. He was dead on , when i tore down carbs i foun little peices of sealent every where.. You should olny use new O rings from a new kit with NO sealant.I had to spend the 100 bucks for the proper kits and bike runs exelent now...Sqids rite about the smallest of changes , and about find and adjust the worst one first. Hope you can retrace your steps and find the prob. good luck bro, hope this is a little better advice...peeece
 
  #20  
Old 11-26-2009, 11:22 AM
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so then its throttle related and not speed related? sounds like squid is pointing you in the correct direction.
 
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