We've got the PVC pipe, and all other hand tools. But is there anything else I'm gonna need to get the job done?

I'm hearing about an extended allen wrench for getting in the underside of the forks... any truth to that? Is there anything in specific that I might need aside from the average home mechanics tool set?

Oh yeah, I've also got 2 qts. of fork oil. The guy at the shop told me I'd probably only need one, but that I should get the second just in case I need it and he'd take it back if I didn't use it. Craps expensive.

So, I've got 2 qts. fork oil, 2 sets fork seals, 1 oil filter, 4 qts. of oil and one PVC pipe...

Anything I'm overlooking? Thanks for any responses, I'm heading out in about an hour for the 40 minute ride to my buddy's house. I'd like to have anything I need before I get there. Thanks!

 

What is your plan for the PVC pipe? If you're not planning to use it asa fork seal driver, you'll need a seal driver. About the allen screw in the bottom of the fork, yes. Removing the allen will allow you to remove the internal valve assembly. Here is a word of advice about separating the two halves. You will have to push the fork tube into the fork leg (lower half) and then pull out the tube out with force or essentially ramming speed. You will feel it hit something... that is the seal you are trying to remove. As you ram the seal, it slowly comes out. You just have to do this until it pops out. Just don't ram the tub into the fork leg. I have had some seals that wouldn't budge andI had to use a torch and CAREFULLY heat the fork tube to break the old seal loose. After you have them disassembled, the fork components will need to be cleaned. I use solvent because it cleans oily and greasy parts with ease. I recommend that they sit over night to dry. Good luck!

 

in the worst scenerios, the cartridge spins when you try to loosen it....with an impact wrech, you are usually OK....but with hand tools it likes to spin. KYB cartridges have a 3/4" square recessed top....not sure about showa stuff.

two other hints...back the spring preload off all the way, and crack the top cap loose while its still held in the triple clamps (since you don;t have the special tol to hold the tube in a bench vise). I've never used heat.

when "hammering" the seal out....once it starts to move....you can hammer with less force.....it will only take taps at the end. You run less risk of trashing the bushings if you don't go nuts on it.