Dos/Don'ts of Carb Cleaning
Hello,
I just removed the carbs from my 1990 CBR600F and want to clean them without having to resync them. What can I do and what can I not do in this case? I definitely need to clean out the jets as well as the bowls. Pictures OR a link to another thread would be absolutely loved.
Thank you in advance,
Erik
I just removed the carbs from my 1990 CBR600F and want to clean them without having to resync them. What can I do and what can I not do in this case? I definitely need to clean out the jets as well as the bowls. Pictures OR a link to another thread would be absolutely loved.
Thank you in advance,
Erik
Hers is one.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...g-101-a-96888/
Why do you not want to sync them?
Do you have something against your bike running well?
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...g-101-a-96888/
Why do you not want to sync them?
Do you have something against your bike running well?
Its just a matter of me not having the vacuum gauges to get the job done! If I can find a friend that does have the tools to get the job done or if I can find the tools for a good price I will invest!
A vac sync gauge isn't that expensive.
Given the carbs were in sync, if you don't remove the long threaded bars that keep the bank together, they should stay in sync.
Should...
Carb tuning was the thing I also dreaded when getting into working with bikes but once you do it once with proper thought it's actually one of the easiest jobs out there.
If you get carb cleaner spray on any of the rubber parts make sure it can evaporate freely and wipe off all that you can. While it doesn't happen in seconds, prolonged exposure to carb cleaner can destroy rubber seals, vacuum bellows etc.
It is a good idea to change the O-rings to the T-couplings that distibute the fuel to the carbs while you're servicing them, and unfortunately the only way to reach the said o-rings is to detach the carbs from each other. The tuning itself is a very simple and straightforward task, but you need the sync tool (the vacuum gauge) to do it. While it is possible to craft your own manometer, the cheapest ready ones don't cost that much more than all the parts and saves you a lot of hassle.
Given the carbs were in sync, if you don't remove the long threaded bars that keep the bank together, they should stay in sync.
Should...
Carb tuning was the thing I also dreaded when getting into working with bikes but once you do it once with proper thought it's actually one of the easiest jobs out there.
If you get carb cleaner spray on any of the rubber parts make sure it can evaporate freely and wipe off all that you can. While it doesn't happen in seconds, prolonged exposure to carb cleaner can destroy rubber seals, vacuum bellows etc.
It is a good idea to change the O-rings to the T-couplings that distibute the fuel to the carbs while you're servicing them, and unfortunately the only way to reach the said o-rings is to detach the carbs from each other. The tuning itself is a very simple and straightforward task, but you need the sync tool (the vacuum gauge) to do it. While it is possible to craft your own manometer, the cheapest ready ones don't cost that much more than all the parts and saves you a lot of hassle.
Thank you guys for the advice! Demon, that link was very helpful and was probably the reason I was successful.
Mattson, I took your advice on the rubber parts and made sure I knew where the carb cleaner was going and how long it was staying! I did not separate them as I was trouble shooting why the bike would die upon application of throttle and it turned out to confirm my suspicion (well, my friends suspicion) that it was a carb problem (most likely a clogged jet). The carbs will be cleaned again next winter and separated next winter. Here is a video of the bike running right after carb reinstallation.
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/er...i.mp4.html?o=0
Next up is priming and painting the gas tank, replacing a brake light and finishing the installation of a BackOff Module, and the installation of an HID headlight (which I'm most concerned about for some reason). I'll start a build thread in the CBR600F sub forum soon.
Mattson, I took your advice on the rubber parts and made sure I knew where the carb cleaner was going and how long it was staying! I did not separate them as I was trouble shooting why the bike would die upon application of throttle and it turned out to confirm my suspicion (well, my friends suspicion) that it was a carb problem (most likely a clogged jet). The carbs will be cleaned again next winter and separated next winter. Here is a video of the bike running right after carb reinstallation.
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/er...i.mp4.html?o=0
Next up is priming and painting the gas tank, replacing a brake light and finishing the installation of a BackOff Module, and the installation of an HID headlight (which I'm most concerned about for some reason). I'll start a build thread in the CBR600F sub forum soon.
I have to agree cleaning the carbs is an easy going job. I recommend that you replace all the o-rings as they get old and crack. Breaking the carbs is cake, you just need to be organized. As you break the carbs down, number them. Take a sandwich bag and numer it to the carb. Make sure all the parts from that carb go into corosponding bag. Do not mix the parts as some of them are different and carb specific. You can buy a can of carb dip for $20 or so from Auto Zone. Dip you carbs one at a time and also the parts one bag at a time. Renumber the carbs because the cleaner will remove your mark. Be sure to put a little oil on new o-rings when assembling.
If you look up the manual to your bike, it'll tell you everything you need to know for the intial settings and procedure to tune the carbs.
If you look up the manual to your bike, it'll tell you everything you need to know for the intial settings and procedure to tune the carbs.
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doncollins
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