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  #31  
Old 05-03-2011, 11:24 PM
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Thanks for all the help steel horse!! I already have the new ngk cr9eh-9 plugs threaded finger tight with a tad bit of anti seize on the threads. I'm about to torque them down and put everything together tonight then do the carb sync tomorrow afternoon. I really appreciate the help. 9 ft lbs seems alot tighter than the quarter turn I see others recommending. Before I f something up, isn't it 12 inch pounds = to 1 foot pound? My quarter inch torque wrench is in inch pounds and nm.
 
  #32  
Old 05-03-2011, 11:51 PM
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Just torque them down till they are snug ,,then a quick bump or 10-12 inch torque should do it , 9 pds isnt much,,and you dont need much as the plugs have crush washers on them to seal the seat to help prevent stripping the threads . A Good Snug,, about up to 1/4 past seating the plug is all you need.
Great work , and the feeling of doing it yourself,,is priceless.
Let me know how it goes .
 
  #33  
Old 05-04-2011, 12:42 AM
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Plugs are in, coils are back in their original locations, and the coils are plugged in. I was doing a good visual inspection of the hoses and I found a few problems. There is a hose that comes off of carb #4 that's just a couple of inches long and has a hole in it before it ties into a tee, then it splits into two lines. One line runs to the bottom of the air box as it should be and is plugged until doing a carb sync and the other runs down under the shock and it's lying open right above the small sprocket cover. There is another small line that connects to the bottom of the fuel pump that runs about a foot and also does not connect to anything and lies open at the end. I'm gonna look thru the service manual and see where these are supposed to go.
 
  #34  
Old 05-04-2011, 01:24 AM
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There should be no holes in any lines at all . All of the lines you describe are vent lines and are where they're supposed to be . Except the #4 line you can tape up with electrical tape that hole or replace it if you have some spare line. The manual will help to a certain degree . I would be sure to double check the line off the fuel pump , but I believe its a vent hose in case of a pump pressure failure it will dump the fuel under the bike instead of all over the motor . Oh , the vacuum lines on each carb under the choke slide plate will be hooked up to (4) Hg vacuum gauges ,,not the (1) line that is running to the breather box . There are (4) vacuum dimples all together ,,1 for each carb , and your settings will be off the #2 or #3 carb (check the section on sync'ing the carbs to be sure),,for vacuum sync'ing the remaining carbs into.
its cheaper to have a shop do it (40.00) verses paying money out for 4 vacuum gauges and 4 equal lengths of vacuum line (50-70 bucks),,but hey , its an adventure , and a learning curve to be had.
It's up to you of course . I don't have my vacuum gauges anymore due to my kids breaking things when they were young , so I took my bike in and had mine done ,,what can I say ,,I'm lazy when I have money LOL!!
 
  #35  
Old 05-04-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Steel Horse Rider
There should be no holes in any lines at all . All of the lines you describe are vent lines and are where they're supposed to be . Except the #4 line you can tape up with electrical tape that hole or replace it if you have some spare line. The manual will help to a certain degree . I would be sure to double check the line off the fuel pump , but I believe its a vent hose in case of a pump pressure failure it will dump the fuel under the bike instead of all over the motor . Oh , the vacuum lines on each carb under the choke slide plate will be hooked up to (4) Hg vacuum gauges ,,not the (1) line that is running to the breather box . There are (4) vacuum dimples all together ,,1 for each carb , and your settings will be off the #2 or #3 carb (check the section on sync'ing the carbs to be sure),,for vacuum sync'ing the remaining carbs into.
its cheaper to have a shop do it (40.00) verses paying money out for 4 vacuum gauges and 4 equal lengths of vacuum line (50-70 bucks),,but hey , its an adventure , and a learning curve to be had.
It's up to you of course . I don't have my vacuum gauges anymore due to my kids breaking things when they were young , so I took my bike in and had mine done ,,what can I say ,,I'm lazy when I have money LOL!!
Lol. I'm the same way. The line that leaves the #4 carb has a hole from being kinked and rubbing on the idle adjust cable which I'm gonna replace tonight and I found a diagram that shows where the other one goes. I forgot what it's called but it hooks up to a port where all the big hoses tie in above the spark plugs. I think i'll take your advise on having someone else do the carb sync. I seems cheaper and easier that way.
 
  #36  
Old 05-04-2011, 01:35 PM
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I'm impressed ,, for a beginner on bikes , your doing this like a pro .
The hose your referring to over the carbs is the positive vent tube from the head cover to the breather box , yep correct . Yes replace the line on #4 and see if you can direct it more away from rubbing so that won't happen again . That's a bit of work you did and you saved some bucks doing it yourself . Now,, your KILLING me with the suspense on how it went LOL!!
 
  #37  
Old 05-04-2011, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Steel Horse Rider
I'm impressed ,, for a beginner on bikes , your doing this like a pro .
The hose your referring to over the carbs is the positive vent tube from the head cover to the breather box , yep correct . Yes replace the line on #4 and see if you can direct it more away from rubbing so that won't happen again . That's a bit of work you did and you saved some bucks doing it yourself . Now,, your KILLING me with the suspense on how it went LOL!!
I was a bit intimidated working on a bike for the first time but once I got everything pulled apart it didn't seem much different than a car. I've been building fox body mustangs since I was fifteen and now I'm 36. I don't like anyone touching none of my cars bc they never seem to do it with the same care as I would You know?

I got off work and was dying to get back at it. I replaced the bad line and put everything back in it's proper place. I set the choke on a hair and proceeded to crank her over and she didn't start. I attempted one more time and she cranked right up, I eased off the choke, then let her run for a few minutes to warm up. The exhaust had a completely different tone and I was getting excited. next, I threw on the helmet and made a few laps around the block. She felt good, really GOOD. I put in neutral and let her idle for about 5 more minutes since this is usually about the time the sputtering would be the worst. I took her out one more time and man, I tell ya, it feels like a completely different bike. The sputtering is gone and the bottom end power is really strong. The bike just has a different sound and feel.

Again, thanks for all the help man! You are the bomb! I shot a little video for ya
 
  #38  
Old 05-04-2011, 09:08 PM
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I shot this right after my little celebratory ride. Lol tell me whatcha think and be honest.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/g...t=3bd68ec3.mp4
 

Last edited by Cobracoupe5; 05-04-2011 at 09:10 PM.
  #39  
Old 05-04-2011, 09:57 PM
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Hey it sounds good !! Great job ! And you did it yourself bro !
See not as scary as you thought huh?
Do me the favor of checking the plugs with 9 ft pds after letting it cool off just to make sure they are tight . Yes , I know pain in the **** , but new plugs settle in after a re-torque and your set for 40 thousand miles . This probably wasn't done before by the previous owner , and why they were so loose / easy fitted when you removed them . Unless you comfortable with them as they are . I don't wish to have you stirring , loosing sleep .
I always re-torque due to aluminum expands more then steel heads .
Use a Foot Pound standard torque ratchet for the best result (3/8th) Just don't over tighten them , I usually can "feel" a tight enough plug without one ,,from doing it for so many yrs,,the product of getting older LOL!!
Borrow one if you don't have one . Most auto stores have loaners .
I would still do a carb balance sync as I did hear a little,,just very little lump in the idle , normal if cold . It won't hurt in any case . You will see a real change in power and gas economy ( better gas mileage ) now.
By my words you followed ,,by your hands you made it happen,,feel the pride ,, enjoy the ride ,,you did it ,,feel good about it ! I am glad I was able to help / contribute ,and this is what we are on this forum for my friend .
Besides ,,if your ever down in my neck of the woods,, you get to buy the soda (I don't drink) ! LOL!! Great job ! It sounds really nice !
ENJOY the "new improved" ride Brother ! Ride safe , Be careful out there .
 
  #40  
Old 05-04-2011, 10:53 PM
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Yeah i still plan on bringing it to get the carbs sync'ed this weekend and I'll retorque the plugs then too. After I get this complete I'm gonna throw on some new tires, wind screen, and change the color scheme.


If you ever need mustang help gimme a holla. Lol
 



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